"And we might also give thought to the legacy that they have created, by which the people continue to live today. What is this legacy? We often remember ancient or traditional cultures for the monuments they have left behind--the megaliths of Stonehenge, the temples of Bangkok, the pyramids of Teotihuacán, the great ruins of Machu Picchu. People like the Koyukon have created no such monuments, but they have left something that may be unique- greater and more significant as a human achievement. This legacy is the vast land itself, enduring and essentially unchanged despite having supported human life for countless centuries. Koyukon people and their ancestors, bound to a strict code of morality governing their behavior toward nature, have been the land's stewards and caretakers. Only because they have nurtured it so well does this great legacy of land exist today. Here, perhaps, is the greatest wisdom in a world that Raven made.”
Nelson’s The Island Within is one of my most beloved books, and I hadn’t realized he died in 2019, so I decided to seek out some other of his books, and this one was fascinating, if a little repetitive, a gorgeous portrait of a culture in Alaska that has been able to accept Christianity and blend it with their beliefs, and stay true to their own worldview. It was so lovingly, thoroughly and professionally done, it made me so happy to think of a different worldview, or lifeway, and however briefly, in that worldview. I am grateful for this chance, and hope they continue to thrive 50 years later.
The first and most basic purpose of this book is to present a detailed account of Koyukon knowledge, belief, and behavior concerned with the natural world. This is an ethnographic study in the strict sense of the word descriptive portrayal of Koyukon culture and custom. My personal goal, here as elsewhere, is to create an accurate, sensitive description of a human lifeway. A second purpose is to compile a natural history, a systematic assemblage of descriptive information about a particular environment. It is intended as a “guidebook" to the boreal forest, derived from traditional knowledge of the Koyukon Indians. As a native natural history, it stands outside the established realm of Western science, though it has been organized and filtered through a Western mind. Biologists, naturalists, and environmental scientists will find here an alternative view on the nature of nature, together with a different concept of humanity's proper role in the environment.
The Koyukon Indians inhabit a huge expanse of wild country in northwestern interior Alaska, extending well to the north and south of the Arctic Circle. Their name derives from the Yukon and Koyukuk rivers, along which their villages and camps are situated. In their own language they are called Tl'eeyagga Hut'aaninh, a general term that includes other Athapaskan peoples as well. But with characteristic politeness they are willing to accept a name that outsiders can pronounce.
The Koyukon language belongs to a widespread family called Athapaskan, spoken by native people scattered throughout northwestern North America and in pockets as far south as California and Arizona. The northern Athapaskans include groups whose names seem appropriate to the forested subarctic wildlands in which they live the Chipewyan, Dogrib, Slave; Yellowknife, Hare, and others in Canada; the Koyukon, Ingalik, Holikachuk, Tanacross, upper Kuskokwim, upper Tanana, Tanana, Kutchin, Tanaina, Ahtna, and Han in Alaska.
The Koyukuk River bends along the village's west edge, and because the bank is carved away each spring the newer houses are built well back from it. A sharp-eyed observer will notice that Huslia is situated on a low sand ridge, which runs eastward for more than fifty miles across the flats. In Koyukon, the place is called Tsaatiyhdinaadakk' onh dinh, “where the forest fire burned the hill to the river."
The subarctic forests where the Koyukon live are very near the poleward margin of human habitation. Here the earth's surface is tilted so it receives only a quarter of the solar energy absorbed by tropical regions. This limited energy intake means austerity for all living things, including humans; and for a large part of the year it means cold. Winter holds absolute sway in Koyukon territory for about seven months of the year, with temperatures dropping as low as -50°, -60°, even - 70° (F). To one who has not experienced it, this cold is beyond imagining; but to the Koyukon it is an ordinary aspect of the world that must be met through adaptation and understanding.
Sky: yo
Sun: so, gha'olee
Sunshine: hak'idee'onh
Moon: dolt'olee
Moonlight: k'idolt'al
Full moon: kk' aanok'inaalyonh
Star: doon'
Twinkling stars: doon' na'alts' eeyh liyaah
Meteor: doon’ tsona
North wind: yoonhlits'in'
South wind: yoodots'in'
East wind: yooneets'in'
West wind: yoonhlinhts'in'
Storm: taalts'iyh
Fog: okk
Misty rain: okk kona'
Rain: konh
Pouring rain: nokonh dila
Hail: k'inloo
Thunderstorm: yok'i dok'idaadli d'ee
Thunderclap: hunk'iltuyd
Lightning: huditiltik
Rainbow: naaggadla dik'inaald'oonh, niltin ggaabeela
Snow: tseetl, noodaagha
Deep snow: tseetl nikoh
Falling snow: alyot
Blowing snow: yol yil taalts'iyh
Snow on the ground: noodaagha
Mountain: dlil
In the Distant Time, The Raven, incarnated as a young man, had paddled his canoe across a great body of water to ask a woman to marry him. She refused to be his wife, so he made her sink into the mud and disappear; and then he began paddling back home. The woman's mother kept two brown bears, and in her anger she told them to drown the young man. They dug furiously at the lake's edge, making huge waves everywhere on the water. But Raven calmed a narrow path before him and paddled on. Eventually he became exhausted, so he threw a harpoon that struck the crest of a wave. At that moment he fainted from the intensity of his concentration, and when he awoke a forested land had replaced the water. He saw that the first wave his harpoon struck had become a small mountain. Then it had glanced off, eventually striking a huge wave that solidified into another mountain- the one now called Deenaalee, or Mount McKinley. [Paraphrased from Jetté 1908:312-13]
Of all the elements of physical terrain, none is more important for the Koyukon than water, none more constantly a part of their consciousness. Although they are an inland people, their lives are dominated by water and the habitats it creates. Water shapes and modifies the land, presents avenues or barricades for travel, supports a wide assortment of plant and animal communities, and both threatens and sustains human life.
Large rivers are by far the most significant bodies of water for the Koyu-kon, whose villages and camp are situated along them, and whose group identity derives from them. The entire Koyukon system of geographic orientation is based on rivers, not on the compass points used by Westerners. The four cardinal directions and modifiers for intermediate points are used mainly with reference to the wind. Direction and distance on land are reckoned by a complex of terms meaning upriver, downriver, toward the river, away from the river, and across the river. Four prefixes measure distance for each term: dodot means nearby downriver, aadot and nodot move farther away downriver, and yoodot is a great distance downriver. Other features are also described by reference to the large rivers-for example, a lake has a shore toward the river, a shore away from the river, and upriver and downriver shores. I was often confused by the Koyukon people's way of orienting themselves by river current, because I was raised to think in terms of cardinal directions. Huslia people talk of going "up” to Fairbanks, for instance, because it is upstream from the mouth of the Koyukuk River. But Fairbanks is southeast of Huslia, so I considered it "over" or "down," certainly not "up." When Koyukon friends visited my home on a long, narrow inlet in southeast Alaska, they were constantly disoriented by the changing tidal current, which made "upstream" become "downstream" every six hours!
Wait, I see something: It sounds like a lullaby is being sung to children in the other world.
Answer: The sound of a swiftly moving current.
Thunderstorms are another common weather phenomenon in Koyukon country. They brood darkly beneath towering cumulus formations on hot summer afternoons, moving slowly across the land. Koyukon people fear the sudden violence of lightning and the crashing noise, and they advise taking shelter and avoiding open water when thunderstorms threaten. When a tree is split or someone is knocked down, they say it is caused by the thunder striking. Thunderstorms are transformations of a human spirit from the Distant Time, and because they have awareness they can be influenced. In years past people would paint a red circle on a canoe paddle and wave it toward the west as the dark clouds came near. At the same time they shouted: "Go out to the coast, where they will enjoy having you!" Apparently "they" refers to the Eskimos.
For seven months each year, the subarctic environment is transformed by a gift (or perhaps some would say a curse) of the weather. This, of course, is snow. By midwinter the land is covered by soft powder lying two to six feet deep in the forest, hardened to dunelike drifts on the broad lakes and rivers, creating a nivean world of its own. The coming of snow is forecast by many signs… When the sky is bright orange at sunrise there will be snow, "usually two mornings later." Perhaps the best sign of snow is a moondog, a luminous circle around a bright winter moon. When the Koyukon speak of it, they say, "the moon pulls his (parka] ruff around his face," as if he is telling them that snow is coming soon.
The culture of Athapaskan people like the Koyukon is highly adapted to the environment that snow creates. Their elegant and refined snowshoes are perhaps the most tangible expression of this, but there are others as well-more subtle but equally impressive. I have seen a man follow a bear's tracks made in frozen moss, then covered by two feet of undisturbed snow that showed faint but somehow perceptible irregularities in its surface. Knowledge of snow is also reflected in the elaboration of terms for its varieties and conditions.
They perceive artistic elegance in the form of the land and living things, much the same as in our Western tradition. This sensitivity toward natural design is quite outside the pragmatism that might dominate the lives of people subsisting directly from wild resources. Koyukon people often comment that a day or a scene is particularly beautiful, and they are attentive to fleeting moments mountains outlined against the sky, reflections on still water, a bird's song in the quietness. In their language, words like nizoonh ("pretty") or hutaadla'o ("beautiful) communicate these feelings. This is not a new way of seeing, as the ancient riddles and the statements of elders indicate.
Newcomers to the north country are sometimes amazed to find that forests exist here, for they expect endless barren lands of rock, ice, and snow. This feeling may not diminish with time after experiencing the intensity and duration of winter, the existence of a fairly dense, diversified forest becomes even more impressive. Home is in the forest for the Koyukon.
I have often thought this while traveling with my dogs through the silent, snow-laden trees: All the plants are dormant here for more than seven months each year. It is only the four or five months of warmth - -that quick flourish of growth that allows them to live at all. And because the animals could not exist without plants, they are equally beholden to summer. So whatever inhabits the subarctic winter lives on borrowed time, or more accurately borrowed energy, that carries it across the abyss of winter. [Huslia journal, February 1977]
TO the cold eye of statistics, plants may seem to have little direct importance in the economies of subarctic people like the Koyukon. It is reasonable to estimate that plant foods have never composed over 10 percent of the overall diet though this could vary sharply from time to time. By this measure, few people in the world are less dependent on plants for food. But vegetation provides the Koyukon with the essential materials for housing, heating, and manufacture of equipment. When these uses are considered, few people anywhere depend more completely on plants for their survival, especially since the absolute imperative for hear can be met here only by burning wood.
The eagles are rare indeed in Koyukon country, if my own experience serves as judgment. Only occasionally is one sighted in the distance, making broad, easy sweeps and circles on its great wings. Like the hawks, these birds receive little attention from the Koyukon, an interesting contrast to their strong emotional and symbolic meanings in our own and many native American cultures. The golden eagle (Aquila chrysaëtos) and bald eagle (Haliacetus leucocephalus) are both named tilila, and old individuals of either species are called k'iyona'.
Eagles are not eaten or used, but there is no taboo on killing them should someone have a reason. For example, an old shaman had killed one and skinned it, then stretched the skin and kept it on a wall of his house. Perhaps he did this because the eagle is known as a great animal through its exploits in stories of the Distant Time, when it performed feats of extraordinary strength.
The Koyukon homeland is not a wilderness, nor has it been for millennia. This apparently untrodden forest and tundra country is thoroughly known by a people whose entire lives and cultural ancestry are inextricably associated with it. The lakes, hills, river bends, sloughs, and creeks are named and imbued with personal or cultural meanings. Indeed, to the Koyukon these lands are no more a wilderness than are farmlands to a farmer or streets to a city dweller. At best we can call them a wildland.
The fact that Westerners identify this remote country as wilderness reflects their inability to conceive of occupying and utilizing an environment without fundamentally altering its natural state. But the Koyukon people and their ancestors have done precisely this over a protracted span of time. From this standpoint, they have made a highly effective adjustment to living as members of an ecosystem, pursuing a form of adaptation that fosters the successful coexistence of humanity and nature within a single community.
Almost every day had moments and experiences that seemed profound to me. My senses could scarcely contain the beauty around me. Sometimes I am overwhelmed by my feelings for this place and people, and I wish for a way to possess them in words or pictures. But neither will do, and the most I can hope for is a memory that is burned forever into the core of my mind.