St. Laurent was hip and modern, he was inspired by Mondrian, Picasso, Braque, Matisse, Warhol, Wesselman and even Goya and Velazquez. Berge and St. Laurent understood that haute couture was a dying art and in 1966 started their own ready-to-wear line, a revolutionary move at the time. Their Rive Gauche boutiques sprung up like delicious mushrooms on the world's fashionable shopping streets, bringing the glamour of the happy few to a far larger public. YSL pants suits, safari jackets and the "smoking, " a man's dinner jacket adapted for slim, with-it ladies, were the ultimate fashion statement, much as Chanel's simple black dress had been in the 1930s. But St. Laurent also admired Schiaparelli's daring wit and executed workmen's smocks in satins and velvet, and designed bomber jackets to be worn over chiffon evening dresses. Quite justly, he was honored as the first living designer to merit a one-man show at the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute in 1983.
Gorgeous and tightly organized, "Yves Saint Laurent" by Pierre Berge is a nice addition to my growing repertoire of fashion literature because in, a short span of pages, it totally encapsulates the glamour, grandeur and edginess his designs represent. Deliciously French, Saint Laurent's start with Christian Dior through the 1960's when he dazzled women with the Mondrian dress, trouser suit and other winning looks, this book visually communicates the genius he possessed. Years ago, I read a magazine article about Saint Laurent where he said, " All a woman needs to be well-dressed is a black dress, black stockings, black pumps and a beige trench coat." I've never forgotten that quote, and have often referred back to this timeless advice when I want to look particularly stylish. Now as I go into a future where fashion and style can veer from ultra casual to overtly sexual and inappropriate I cherish books like "Yves Saint Laurent" for being a lovely reminder of a chicer time when women could count on a soignee stylist with a stellar eye and sure hand.