* Includes stories of such greats as Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, Allen Steck, and Warren Harding
* Captures the raucous, outrageous, innovative spirit of climbing in Yosemite during this period
* Portrays the advances in equipment and style that revolutionized big-wall climbing
In the 1960's, California's Yosemite Valley was the center of the rock-climbing universe. Young nonconformists -- many of them the finest rock climbers in the world -- channeled their energy toward the largely untouched walls and cracks. Soon climbers from around the globe were coming to Camp 4 -- gathering spot for the creators of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing -- to see what all the fuss was about.
Climber and author Steve Roper spent most of 10 years living in the Yosemite Valley with its intriguing inhabitants. Camp 4 is his take on the era's top climbers and the influences behind their achievements. The text is full of stories both hilarious and revealing about the likes of bolt-disdaining Royal Robbins; fun-loving, big-wall expert Warren Harding; free-climber Frank Sacherer; multi-talented Chuck Pratt; master craftsman Yvon Chouinard; and ill-fated Mark Powell. Roper also tips his hat to the elder statesmen of the 1930s and 1940s who pioneered early, important climbs in the valley.
Camp 4 looks at the most significant climbs, and the most riveting controversies of a legendary era. With more than 50 fascinating historical photographs, most never before published, Camp 4 is the definitive history of Yosemite climbing during this period.
This was an interesting book to read while on a recent trip to Yosemite--an engaging account of an important chapter in the history of the Valley. As a non-climber, I would have benefited from a little primer on the climbing techniques he refers to frequently throughout the book; without them, I think this book is probably best suited for people who already know something about the sport. And without visuals to go along with his descriptions of various climbs, not to mention the many climbers involved over the years, things do start to blur together a bit. Still, there are some really exciting (and scary) stories here, and it's a fun read.
From starting of climbing in Yosemite to the Golden Age, Steve Roper explains all the evolution the evolution that happened in Yosemite valley from the inside.
I enjoyed the book especially on the second part with the details of big walls attempts, description of the gear, the climbing philosophy, people thoughts and lives.
If you love rock climbing stories, the Sierra Nevada, and all the "interwoven" relationships of the early climbers (and later to become major outdoor garment and gear gurus), you'll really enjoy this book
This must be the go to book on the history and legacy of Yosemite climbing. The stories are told in such an honest way that you feel like you're there yourself. If you love rock climbing or at all interested in a unique piece of American History, please read this book
A great read, really enjoyable hearing about the development of rock climbing in Yosemite. Some stories I'd heard the vague details of before, but hearing a fleshed out version from an insider's perspective was fascinating. I particularly enjoyed hearing about how and why the ethics in Yosemite developed over time. My only gripe was that despite being written in the 90s, the book only covers up to 1970/71. On the one hand this is understandable as it is partially a personal memoir. However, as a result it feels incomplete as a history of Yosemite given the events of the 70s/80s and the likes of Bridwell, Long, Barber, Westbay, Croft etc. are only mentioned in passing.
Incredible history, really unique voice, and entertaining stories.
The perfect mix of history, climbing, and personal narrative.
I may be biased because I'm an avid rock climber, but this is probably the best climbing book I've read, both on grounds of content and actual writing.
Perhaps more in the 4.5 territory. It hit especially hard as I have been walking through the same meadows, and climbing the same walls that were being described. Beautiful photography and vital writing. I’m not really that into climbing literature but I found this well written enough to really enjoy it.
As a climber I have to give this book 5 stars. The old stories and the boldness with which these guys went after it is truly awesome. I'm not sure how much a non-climber would enjoy this but if you have an interest in the sport it's a must read.
In Camp 4, Steve Roper details the major rock climbing ascents that took place in Yosemite Valley circa 1930-1970 and shares some tales of the escapades that unfolded on the towering granite walls and in the climbers campground Camp 4 during the Golden Age of Yosemite Valley rock climbing.
5 stars, and that's not just because it's a book about climbing. One heck of a writer and a treasure chest of stories about friendship; rules (setting them, breaking them); limits; how rocks sharpen people and how people sharpen rocks; how to live a good life.
An incredible look into the birth of one of America's outdoor subcultures. Steve Roper's detailed history provides a look into the ideologies that compelled young men to climb and adventure in a relatively unadventurous age. I find really interesting how the intent of the dirt bags was not really to rebel or reject society but to find a heteratopia that was the absence of normal society.