All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing

by Jeff Smoot

*An insider’s perspective on free soloing

*From the author of the critically acclaimed Hangdog Days

*Examines what motivates people to climb without a rope

Once considered a fringe activity, climbing without a rope has entered the mainstream consciousness, largely because of the Oscar-winning documentary Free Solo featuring professional climber Alex Honnold. Yet climbers have been free soloing all along—motivated by reasons as varied as the climbers themselves.

All and Nothing delves into the cultural history of free soloing, ranging across the storied climbing cultures of the Alps, Rocky Mountains, Sierra Nevada, Joshua Tree, Yosemite, the Gunks, Eldorado Canyon, and several other locales. Writer and climber Jeff Smoot explores the interplay of climbing and risk, as well as psychological theories, evolving ethics, the effect of media coverage (particularly the portrayal of extreme sports), and shares original interviews with dozens of free soloists. Smoot also recounts his personal experiences climbing without a rope in the same era as talented climbers like Mark Twight and Peter Croft.

From inside his complex connection to free soloing, he examines our relationship with risk, how we perceive our sense of control, and our perspective on mortality.

Genres: Nonfiction, Climbing, Nature

418 pages, Kindle Edition

Published September 1, 2022

Reviews

[Audrey]

DNF

I did not expect a book about free solo rock climbing to be so boring.



After 50 pages of facts (name-mountain-date-level of difficulty) strung together, I gave up. I couldn’t take it anymore. I came to one factoid that said the soloist’s “body wasn’t found until 1956” — with no information about when said soloist went missing. It was too much mental effort to sift through a bunch of facts that were still lacking in facts.

You know how people hate history because they were forced to memorize names and dates with no story behind them? This is that book. If you are already really into rock climbing, you may enjoy it — the book assumes you are already familiar with all the terminology.

I was expecting this



and got this:



Clean content in what I read.

[Stefano Vitucci · Rating 5 out of 5]

At the time of writing this review, I have been climbing for almost eight years. It was not until I moved to British Columbia several years ago that I had witnessed someone free solo a proper 5th class route in the flesh (Klahanie Crack, 5.7, in Squamish BC). I vividly remember watching this completely composed yet unroped person midway up this 30 metre long hand crack. There was a captivating silence as we looked up at the base.

Though not a soloist myself, this aspect of climbing has always been quite intriguing to me. In sections of the book where soloists discuss their in-the-moment experiences, I related personally to instances where I have been in an exposed scramble, runout situation on a rope climb, or high up on a committing boulder problem.

Lawyer and soloist Jeff Smoot dives into the heart of this subject in All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing. Smoot presents topics in a concise and well researched manner, with short chapters. The book begins with the history of climbers engaging in free soling from several global cultures. Smoot continues with personal accounts, interviews from professional climbers and soloists, risk analysis, and psychoanalytical analysis of why climbers engage in this practice. Smoot adds insight onto one commonly accepted premises of free soloing, which is that it is an expression of self-mastery and as close to feeling perfect that one can be.

The book postulates the idea of soloing as an ontological experience in which the practitioner is rooted full-heartedly in the present, while aiming to achieve a form of transcendence. That is to say, giving purpose to a life that increasingly, especially in our modern times, is becoming more mundane and risk intolerant from a societal perspective. A purpose that comes from within ourselves in a true “Warrior” sense of being through mastery, discipline, and self-awareness.

An informative read for climbers and non-climbers alike who are curious to learn more about l’appelle de vide.

[Gino · Rating 4 out of 5]

A must read for all fans of rock climbing

[Gabe O'Leary · Rating 2 out of 5]

This is about the audiobook version:

The narrator clearly had not before encountered names and words within the book which makes their pronunciations very difficult to listen to for those who have.

(John) Muir, carabiner & piton are all mispronounced. You'd think the author of the book would have to pass off on the narration before being published...

[Jerry Cagle · Rating 4 out of 5]

Having taken up free soloing late in my climbing "career", I found the insights proffered in Jeff's work to be of great value to me personally in balancing my approach (haha) to soloing and not just the soloing aspect of it but my overall relationship to climbing. After free soloing several hundred lines, I find that complacency, not fear (although excessive fear can, itself, precipitate an accident) is where the real danger in free soloing (for me) lies. In some respects, soloing is not radically dissimilar from public speaking. The more you do it, the less stressful it becomes. The difference lies in that, unlike public speaking, where you only feel like you may die (of embarrassment) if you screw up, in free soloing, you may actually die (or worse) from a mere moment's inattention.

I found the book to be as educational as it was entertaining. Jeff focuses not just on the soloists themselves, but the body of psychological research that looks into extreme risk taking. He skillfully presents a wide-spectrum view of what many, not just, but especially, those unfamiliar with climbing view as a verifiably insane pursuit. As for me, I am aligned with the school of thought that proposes that soloing is, at bottom, a potent "life-affirming activity".

[Momchil Atanasoff · Rating 3 out of 5]

There are definitely some interesting segments in the book, and I do consider it worth reading, but it was quite a hard read, it took me Four Months! To finish the audiobook, which is very rarely the case. I am an avid climbing/ mountain book reader and have rarely encounter a book that took me so long. The whole narrative sounded a bit annoyingly biased in a way sometimes and at the same time a bit too dry. Wouldn’t recommend it generally although it does have quite some interesting moments. Maybe reading it would be better, as it would be easier to skip the moments that get tedious. All in all quite disappointed.

[Irina · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved the stories, history, and psychological perspectives on free soloing. Great book!

[Emily · Rating 4 out of 5]

Thoughtful, insightful reflection on the whys behind free soloing. I appreciated Smoot’s nuance - he set out to tease multiple ideas, usually very deftly. A quick, interesting read.

[Logan Fortenberry · Rating 4 out of 5]

meanders a little bit but i enjoyed the stories and found the psychological aspects intriguing

[Royal]

The audiobook version sounds like it was read by AI from five years ago. Many words and names are mispronounced sometimes comically so.

[eve is reading · Rating 3 out of 5]

probably only of interest if you are a climber. smoot is a good storyteller and mixes both the playful aspects of climbing with the history of the sport. this book wasn't as strong as hangdog days, but has its place in recording the ins and outs of free soloing. i liked smoot's personal anecdotes and recounting of historical events but the sciencey side of the book was lacking. i think mostly because there is just not enough research yet on the brain relating to engaging in free soloing or other extreme risk, daredevil type behaviors. smoot covers the lack of info out there, and does compile it here, but i still want more answers, as i think he does too.

also, we absolutely suffered through the audiobook. terrible narration, tons of mistakes in pronunciation of names and climbing terms made this a quite painful and cringe inducing listening experience.