Women on Waves: A Cultural History of Surfing: From Ancient Goddesses and Hawaiian Queens to Malibu Movie Stars and Millennial Champions

by Jim Kempton

A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—"the Sport of Queens"—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today.

*Updated paperback edition!*

Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations.

Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry—and the sport that is set to make its Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture.

What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture.

Women on Wave s is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more!

Spanning a millennia from Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.

Genres: Nonfiction, Sports

490 pages, Paperback

Published July 12, 2022

Reviews

[Olive Fellows (abookolive)]

Surfing has long been associated with men. For many women, participation in the sport gave them a sense of agency in their lives as well as on the water. “Women on Waves: A Cultural History of Surfing: From Ancient Goddesses and Hawaiian Queens to Malibu Movie Stars and Millennial Champions” by Jim Kempton gives a comprehensive history of female surfers.

Click here to read the rest of my review in the Christian Science Monitor!

[Anya Soller · Rating 1 out of 5]

This was one of the worst books I've ever read. The author really likes to pair popular songs with moments from female surfing history, and in maybe the most insensitive passage I have ever read with my own eyes, he writes:

"By the time his friends found him washed up onshore he had drowned. Although heroic rescue efforts were made by the North Shore lifeguards, he died in the hospital. He was just twenty-eight.
It was a Tsunami of grief for the Hawaiian surf community and the reverberations were felt around the globe. Like the Bonnie Tyler song, for Chesser it was a total eclipse of the heart. "

[Claire · Rating 2 out of 5]

It's inspiring and made me want to surf again but way too long and the editing was terrible. Could have done without all of the random music references

[Elli · Rating 3 out of 5]

I can confidently say that I was greatly inspired by the stories of many of the women in this book. If you can overlook the very large number of typos, it’s a great read if you’re a surf fan or want to read the stories of some incredibly powerful and strong women :)

[pianogal · Rating 2 out of 5]

This book is not good. It's basically a list of women who have surfed, copy and pasted (and not edited well), with no narrative or story. To be fair - this book did point me to several other books to read, but hopefully those will be better. Kempton claims to be an editor, but the editing and writing on this was appalling and I was not impressed. He is also obsessed with music - but he never connects the two. He just implies that his opinion about the lyrics is exactly what the women were thinking when in all likelihood they are completely unrelated. Skip this one unless you are doing research and can just read the needed section.

[Joe · Rating 3 out of 5]

Not bad, but not great. Full of great facts and history, but at times got me bored or confused. I think if the parts slowed better,

[elsalmon L · Rating 3 out of 5]

History of woman's surfing ‐ "the Sport of Queens".