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Big Wave Surfer: The Greatest Rides of Our Lives
A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them.
Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden.
These are the stories we’ve been waiting Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.
Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden.
These are the stories we’ve been waiting Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.
304 pages, Hardcover
Published October 26, 2021
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Displaying 1 - 4 of 4 reviews
January 13, 2023
The photography in the book is impressive. The framing and scale of the photos outmatches any photos shared on social media and provide relevant snapshots in time for the stories shared.
I loved the theme that big wave surfing is something that is a community effort and progressively built through the generations. However, I did not fully see this theme until the end. It was poorly developed or difficult to organize among the stories submitted by different surfers. I suppose there could have been more direction or structure for the submission of stories. Despite repetitive stories of epic rides, I appreciated the inclusion of a diverse array of big wave surfers, especially that of the younger generation trying to break into the scene. Some of the best storytellers weren’t necessarily the most successful surfers. It would have been neat to hear Kai’s commentary between the surfer submissions.
In comparison to my recent read of Gerry Lopez’s “Surf is Where You Find it,” I found this significantly less insightful. The standout features for this book are the spectacular photography and the submissions from big wave chargers that you may not know.
I loved the theme that big wave surfing is something that is a community effort and progressively built through the generations. However, I did not fully see this theme until the end. It was poorly developed or difficult to organize among the stories submitted by different surfers. I suppose there could have been more direction or structure for the submission of stories. Despite repetitive stories of epic rides, I appreciated the inclusion of a diverse array of big wave surfers, especially that of the younger generation trying to break into the scene. Some of the best storytellers weren’t necessarily the most successful surfers. It would have been neat to hear Kai’s commentary between the surfer submissions.
In comparison to my recent read of Gerry Lopez’s “Surf is Where You Find it,” I found this significantly less insightful. The standout features for this book are the spectacular photography and the submissions from big wave chargers that you may not know.
February 3, 2022
Beautiful book with great short stories.
February 14, 2022
To feel nature in the form of riding a wave. Awesome & moving photos.
December 13, 2024
Much better pictures than words.
Displaying 1 - 4 of 4 reviews