Am Stück gestrickt - Ganseys: Stecktechniken und Modelle für den traditionellen Fischerpullover

by Beth Brown-Reinsel

Ganseys – Pullover und Jacken für jedes Wetter und jede Lebenslage

Was einst die Bewohner der britischen Inseln vor Wind und Wetter schützte, ist heute bei Strick-Fans und Outdoor-Sportlern beliebt: der Gansey. Die Jacken und Pullover entstanden im 19. Jahrhundert als Arbeitskleidung für Fischer und Seeleute.

Ein Gansey ist ein Pullover fürs Leben. Durch eine besondere Stricktechnik und dadurch, dass er an einem Stück gestrickt wird, ist er robust und nahezu wetterfest. Die abgesetzten Schultern und die Form der Ärmel bieten eine außergewöhnliche Bewegungsfreiheit. Die traditionellen Strickmuster und das zeitlos klassische Design machen aus dem Fischerpullover ein modisches Kleidungsstück, das sich gut kombinieren lässt.

Dieses Buch zeigt Ihnen, wie Sie Schritt für Schritt Gansey-Jacken und Pullover selbst stricken können:

• Top-Down-Stricken mit traditionellen Mustern und Design-Variationen: Neun Modelle für Damen und Herren und zur Umrechnung in Kindergrößen
• Strickanleitungen in Text und Strickschrift für fortgeschrittene Stricker und Gansey-Anfänger
• Stricken üben am Minipullover: Lernen Sie zuerst die Techniken kennen, mit denen Sie Ausschnitte, Schultern, Ärmel, Torso und Saum Ihres Pullovers stricken
• Kleine Garnkunde: Diese Garne eignen sich besonders gut für den klassisch-britischen Fischerpullover
• Die Geschichte der Ganseys und die Entwicklung vom Seemannspullover zur Outdoor-Kleidung

Nie aus der Mode: Gansey-Strickkunst

25 Jahre nach der Erstausgabe ihres Standardwerkes teilt die Autorin Beth Brown-Reinsel nun ihre neuen Erkenntnisse und Strick-Ideen mit ihren treuen Lesern. Seit der ersten Auflage ist sie viel gereist und hat neue Inspirationen für den Strick-Alleskönner gesammelt.

Die Gansey-Tradition hat sie vor allem eines gelehrt: Stricken bringt Menschen zusammen. Diese Erfahrung möchte sie den Lesern in ihrem sehr persönlichen Strickbuch mitgeben. Ob Sie einen Pullover als Geschenk stricken oder womöglich den Lebensunterhalt mit Stricken verdienen –- jeder Gansey ist wie eine warme Umarmung!

Genres: Knitting, Nonfiction, Crafts, Reference

192 pages, Paperback

Published October 8, 2019

Reviews

[Nostalgia Reader · Rating 5 out of 5]

An excellent and extensive breakdown of the design components of gansey sweaters and how they interplay to create a unique and distinctive garment with immense history. These may look like simple sweaters, but there are many small design elements that are incorporated to make ganseys more practical, better fitting, and distinctive.

A brief historical chapter on ganseys and how integral they were to the fishing communities of Britain starts off the book, then breaks down the sweater into chapters, focusing on the cast on and edging, the body patterning (complete with 12 pages of traditional stitch patterns), gussets, shoulder treatments, sleeves, and neckband. Each of these parts of the sweater have unique, traditional elements applied to them--such as the Channel Islands and other special cast ons, motif initials, definition ridges, underarm gussets, seam stitches, neckband gussets--and the breakdown is made even more helpful by including a pattern for a small sample sweater. Although I did not work the sample sweater, I love when books like this give not only detailed written instructions of the elements, but also apply them practically to a cohesive sample project.

After the breakdown of sweater parts is complete, a chapter on designing your own sweater is given, with detailed worksheets based on the percentage method (only your bust measurement and gauge are needed!) given so you can create your own gansey. This is also a very useful method for determining measurements for general, non-gansey sweaters as well.

Nine patterns round-out the book, each of them focusing on different aspects of gansey design, showing how the traditional rules can be bent and applied in unique ways, while still retaining the general integrity of the gansey elements. In other words, modernizing a classic!

I have not read the original version of this book, published in 1993, so I can't speak for how much it has been revised and updated since then.

I've perused some books on ganseys before, but these have been brief in the design elements and focused more on the stitch patterns, while Brown-Reinsel's focuses on the actual construction elements of the sweater and what makes the style trulely unique.

While the technical breakdowns might be overwhelming to newer knitters, the actual patterns themselves are quite basic--the unique elements are small and relatively optional, the basic silhouette is just a drop shoulder pullover worked in the round, and the stitch patterns are based 90% in knits and purls. For newer knitters who are looking for a challenge, without having to learn too many new techniques (ganseys are great for learning to balance multiple repeats and instructions at a time), or intermediate and advanced knitters who are looking for a simple-but-complex project, this book provides a wealth of information and patterns for you to learn from.

I'm excited to be using these formulas and elements for an upcoming project! This book was perfectly timely for my design process.

Thank you to NetGalley for providing me with a free copy to review!

(Cross posted on my blog.)

[Patty Smith · Rating 5 out of 5]

My thanks to Netgalley, F + W Media, and Beth Brown-Reinsel for an ARC in exchange for an honest review.

What is a gansey? A gansey is a type of knit sweater that is knit in the round so that it is seamless and has a simple square shape with dropped shoulders. Fishermen loved these roomy sweaters because they weren’t restricted when doing their jobs and they lasted longer because there was less rubbing of fabric They use a heavier yarn and the sweaters come out with a heavy and dense fabric that protect you from the elements. They are made with beautiful patterns of knit, purls and cables.

This books is beautifully shot and has gorgeous patterns. But it is not only a pattern book. Beth Brown-Reinsel has really done her homework. She offers you so much information about the history of ganseys, what kind of yarn and tools to use. Bu the major bulk of the book offers a complete, piece by piece, section by section deconstruction of the garment. For example she will take the underarm gusset. She explains the shape, the function, and how it is knit. There are always diagrams that the illustrate step by step instructions. Then she offers a sampler, a small piece that you can knit yourself so you can understand how it all works and fits together. She doesn't’ just leave it there. She then offers maybe ten different variations of gussets with charts and diagrams that will make your mind explode. By breaking down each part of the garment and offering such detailed instructions, with visual diagrams and charts, and then a wide variety of options she is offering you the tools you need to create your own gansey. It is like opening a jar of beads, big ones, small ones, shiny ones, plain ones, all ready to string up into a necklace of your own design. It stirs up your creative juices because the guesswork has been taken out of it. But, if you choose to only dream, no problem. There are nine patterns for you to follow, step by step, with charts and beautifully shot pictures of the finished garment for you to follow.

Whether as a coffee table book, or a pattern book, or a road map to making your own gansey, I don’t think you will be disappointed in this book. Knitting books are expensive and it is nice to now that this has multi purposes. I think time and effort that it takes to invest in one of these sweaters will be well worth it when it is finished. I feel inspired and I love the idea of wearing mine on coast of Ireland with the waves crashing around me, or the moors of Scotland protecting me from the high winds. More realistically, in my backyard, walking my dog in the middle of a Canadian winter.

[Literary Redhead · Rating 5 out of 5]

Knitting Ganseys, Revised and Updated, is a special edition of Beth Brown-Reinsel's classic guide. Features all new photography, patterns, and more from this seasoned instructor, whose specialty is historical knitting. Offers full-color photos with easy-to-follow instructions for an array of traditional gansey techniques, plus info on current sources for traditional yarns. Highly recommended, especially for experienced knitters.

Thanks to F + W Media and NetGalley for the ARC. Opinions are mine.

#KnittingGanseys,revisedAndUpdated #NetGalley

[Amy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beth Brown-Reinsel’s book, Knitting Ganseys, has been a classic for 25 years. The first edition impressed knitters with the well-researched history of these garments worn by British and Scottish fishermen in the 19th century; the detailed analysis of the sweaters’ anatomy from decorative cast-on to underarm gusset and neckline variations; and clear instructions for knitting one of your own, either from a pattern or your own unique design.

One thing that many readers loved about the previous edition was the sampler sweater. That’s still a main feature of the book so you can practice the sometimes challenging techniques before embarking on knitting a full-sized sweater. You can also make your teddy bear the best dressed guy on the block.

Ms. Brown-Reisel has updated the book by adding more information to each section, sharing more historic photos and including more patterns. The styling and photos will appeal to modern readers too. Photos are in color, clear and show both the entire garment and important details.



The gansey tradition encompasses so many aspects of life: the practicality of clothing your family, the financial aspects of knitting for pay, the broader economic context of supporting fishing industry workers, the social history of knitters who relied on knitting for comfort and pleasure in the off hours after a hard day’s work. That era has passed, and yet, every day I teach I see aspects of this tradition continuing: the bonding between knitters and the creative passion to knit something warm and beautiful for oneself or a loved one.

~ Beth Brown-Reinsel, Knitting Ganseys, Revised & Updated

Both knitters and non-knitters might be fascinated by the history of these sweaters. Ms. Brown-Reisel is careful not to romanticize it. She notes that some of pictures of women knitting while waiting at the port for their husbands to come home might look charming, but they really show exploited people who were “desperate to increase inadequate and irregular incomes.”

While I have not tested out any of the instructions, they appear clear enough to me. Parts are written out using standard abbreviations. Patterns are clearly charted. If you’re not familiar with knitting from a chart, there is a page explaining how to do so.

One of the things I like the best are the many, many charts for different patterning. Even if I didn’t want to knit a full-sized sweater, I could add these patterns to other projects like a hat or a cowl.

ganseys-backWhen I was first paging through this book, I wondered, what’s the difference between an aran sweater and a gansey? My question was clearly answered on page 41. The two styles are compared based on provenance, style, construction, gauge, spin of yarn, ply of yarn, color, surface design, special features and purpose. One of the main differences was that arans feature complex cables while ganseys usually feature knit / purl patterns and a few simple cables.

In fact, any time a question popped into my mind, I only had to flip through a few more pages or skim through the index to find the answers I wanted. How to knit cables without a cable needle? Check. How to adjust fit? Check. How to do a channel-isle cast on? Check.

The complex design process was made as simple as humanly possible. There’s a sample schematic, tables of key measurements in both centimeters and inches, and a worksheet to record your notes in an organized fashion. It makes this process seem completely do-able to me, who usually prefers to knit from a commercial pattern.

In short, this is a fantastic knitting book. It’s an entirely worthy successor to the classic printed 25 years ago. It is going to be a great addition to my knitting library.

[Camille · Rating 5 out of 5]

I've just started knitting so I'm curious to learn more about all sorts of techniques. I found this book great as it explains the origin of the gansey style and all the techniques required to knit it in detail. There's even a miniature gansey sweater project to realise to learn all the techniques, it's really sweet. I liked that there are models to make in the book, but Brown-Reinsel also teaches how to create your own.

I particularly enjoyed the historical sections, with their period photographs. All in all, I learnt a lot knitting wise and history wise. I think the gansey style is still a bit too difficult for me at my level of skills, but it's definitely interesting to read about and should appeal to lots of knitters.

[Julie Barrett · Rating 5 out of 5]

vKnitting Ganseys, Revised and Updated Techniques and Patterns for Traditional Sweaters by Beth Brown-Reinsel
Wow what a treasure of information. I design my own Irish Fisherman type sweaters and afghans and really enjoyed reading this book.
Starts out with a table of contents where the chapters are broken up into what the ganseys are to all the construction phases and patterns.
Stunning high quality photos throughout this book, you can see detailed stitching. Loved learning of the history of the gansey and Arans and differences between them.
Loved the tools of the trade as I have some of the curved needles myself, charted variations of stitches and how they are worked.
Every picture tells a story and then some as we learn of the myth behind the fisherman sweater. Love that the ganseys used initials in the bottom section to identify who it was made for.
Also other aspects tell the difference-yarns used and colors of them along with patterns.
Loved seeing the different neck shapings and othervariaions throughtout the book. This is truly a designers resource book as it has it all and then some. Techniques are shown and explained how to do the stitching, or even casting on. That portion explains why you should one method over another and why.
There is a sample small gansey to make to give you an idea of the techniques that are being taught only using 4 oz. of yarn rather than making a full sweater-but that is also included here, the patterns, etc.
Lots of tips along the way. Tools and step by step instructions how to prepare for your own design are also included.
There are also 9 full size patterns.
Each pattern comes with a title, color photo, finished sizes, yarn suggested, needles, list of notions, guage, featured techniques and other notes.
Instructions for each of the sections along with charted gussetts.
I like that some are made for men and there is also a woman's section for the same gansey.
Measurements are also done in inches and metric. Resources and supplies list is also included. Abbreviations and also metric onverstions are included.
Dedication, acknowledgement and about the author are included at the end along with an index.
Other resource books from others are also highlighted if you wan to check further into the different techniques.
Loved reading parts and learning all new things along the way along with the designing aspect of this book. Ends with how the gansey tradition continues.
A KEEPER!
What I did not like was showing the patterns in very dark colors. I realize those are the true colors but for showing them in the book I felt they could've used lighter shades.
Received this review copy from the author via F+W Media and Interweave via Netgalley and this is my honest opinion.
#KnittingGanseys,RevisedAndUpdated #NetGalley

[Lora Milton · Rating 5 out of 5]

Not just another knitting pattern book!

Ganseys and their southern cousins, Guernseys, are a traditional form of textured sweater made for fishermen to keep in extra warmth and with gussets in the arms for extra freedom of movement.

This is a new edition of a book already in publication. It's well presented and has lots of good quality color photographs. It starts with a little history, explaining exactly what a Gansey is and where they come from. It goes into detail about the materials, tools and methods traditionally used, but adapts instructions for modern knitting tools.

It explains the forms and construction of this type of sweater and the reasons for such attributes as the underarm gusset. The instructions start with basic casting on and include design variations and a selection of edges the knitter might want to use for their project. It also includes instructions to make samplers for those who don't feel confident to jump right in with a full-sized pullover.

Reasons for different designs of ribbing and welts are explained and I saw some interesting possibilities for using side welts to make a more tabbard-like project. Knitting in initials was shown with a chart for all letters and my imagination took me well out of the traditional with possibilities for writing slogans on the backs of knitted projects!

There are lots charts for different traditional patterns of textures and information about how they were traditionally used. One thing that is different about this book is that it encourages the knitter to create their own designs, based on the basic elements. There is a little cabling, but most of the patterns are a matter of basic knitting and garter stitch.

Naturally a few different neckline choices are also offered. I have to say that as far as personal design in knitting goes, this is probably the most interesting and useful book I've seen. I can see myself experimenting extensively with these ideas! The way the patterns are broken down into basic squares, gussets, edges and shoulder straps and joins allows for a very personally tailored fit and completely personalised combinations of textured designs.

The knitting methods themselves are pretty basic and should be easy for any knitter to follow. Charts are given for measurements when creating your own designs as well as instruction for making the right fit. There's even a worksheet for planning out your project.

The last part of the book gives nine of the author's own patterns for those who feel more comfortable with working with an established pattern and these make good examples for the adventurous who are ready to jump in and design their own. One of the things I note is that the sleeves tend to mostly be roomy, which allows for wearing a pullover over a long-sleeved top which is likely in the sort of cold weather that would merit wearing a pullover at all.

I really liked this book. I think I may get more use out of it than any knitting book I've had before.

[Annie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Originally published on my blog: Nonstop Reader.

Knitting Ganseys, Revised and Updated is a re-release of a classic and meticulously researched piece of knitting history. The traditional pullovers of the British Islands, ganseys, (a corruption of 'Guernsey') were working garments, knitted in the round and seamless. The shaping was done integrally during the knitting. This included the sleeves and waist, the areas with the most wear, so that they could ingeniously be removed and re-knitted as they wore out, thus saving the body of the sweater from having to be replaced.

This rebooted version of the original (1993) classic by knitting historian Beth Brown-Reinsel, was released July 31st 2018 by Interweave and F+W Media. It's 192 pages and available in hardback format.

The logical layout of this book is a huge plus. It's easy to find thematic content with the index at the back of the book. For such a meaty, content rich book, it's amazingly readable. It really is comprehensive, both for history and culture surrounding the creation and use of these garments as well as in-depth instruction in how to recreate one for modern wearers.

The book is arranged in chapters starting with introductory chapters including some definitions, materials and history. Each of the following chapters introduces a construction element along with a sampler of stitches and alternatives which can be incorporated architect style into a complete garment. I loved the samplers because they remove the constraints of feeling pressured to have a goal in mind and allow the knitter to experiment and learn and explore. This is so incredibly important, and the techniques learnt are more easily and permanently retained!

These elemental chapters lead up to a penultimate chapter which shows how to design and construct an original garment to a desired measurement. Additionally, the author gives 9 step-by-step original design tutorials with very specific directions for knitters who feel more comfortable following a pattern.

This is a very generous book. The author's warm and supportive teaching style are pleasant and well delivered. It is also one of the very best books I've ever encountered covering the history and culture of the garment and its use in the coastal communities of Great Britain over the last couple of centuries.

Sourcing materials can be challenging to some knitters, since the traditional yarns are not widely available. The author has included a good source list of e-tailers who can provide the proper yarns for the best results.

Five stars, classic, beautifully written, has withstood the test of time, and wonderfully useful and educational.

Disclosure: I received an ARC at no cost from the author/publisher for review purposes.

[Leyla Johnson · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a very well written book, I would say that it wouldn't be for a beginner, although if you are really good at following instructions it could be done. More than half the book is given to instructions and the patterns are achieved through varying the stitched - there is even the ability to encrypt letters in the garment. There is a tiny sample jumper to have a try with, and the instructions are very clear, and I think with practice "The Garnsey sleeves are knitted on the round from armhole to cuff, whilst simultaneously, the gusset is decreased away" can be achieved and more. Hence the sample jumper.The patterns at the back of the book are fabulous, timeless and certainly enough to keep you warm in the coldest of weather.
This book is beautifully presented, the information is very clear and there are lots of photos- including step by step instructions on a tiny sample jumper.

[Katherine · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a great book full of beautiful ideas! What I like best about the book, besides the beautiful photography, are the very well written instructions for the projects. This book includes an interesting history of traditional gansey sweater knitting. There are detailed photos of the projects and detailed instructions. Beth Brown-Reinset has even broken down the steps of a sweater from cast-on to finishing and everything in between. For those just starting to explore the Gansey, you can knit a sampler sweater that includes all the essentials for a full size sweater, to get your feet wet. If you are adventurous, you can even create your own garment using her basic instructions and choosing your own designs.

There are 9 patterns for sweaters for men and women. I would highly recommend this book for anyone interested in knitting a beautiful detailed sweater, or just learning more about Gansey knitting.

[Cynthia · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is an excellent book for expanding your knitting skills or for reference. I especially liked the history of this type of knit sweater, along with the detailed explanation of how exactly a sweater is properly constructed. I will likely use this book for ideas for making my own designs, and this use of the book is embraced by the author. I would have liked a separate set of the stitch designs featured. These sweaters are beautiful but a bit too complicated for my needs and interests. I will likely use some of the stitch patterns in my own designs, but not the entire sweater patterns. Highly recommended!

[Bobbie Kirkland · Rating 5 out of 5]

I received a free copy of Knitting Ganseys, Revised and Updated, Techniques and Patters for Traditional Sweaters by Beth Brown-Reisel in exchange for an honest review. This book explains the origins of the gansey sweater and what makes it different from other types of sweaters. It explains each of the techniques used in crafting a gansey sweater and provides patterns for several beautiful garments. These are strictly for cold-weather wear designed to afford fishermen protection from the elements. Beautiful garments and interesting information. If you can use a snuggly sweater, I think you’d find something to love in this book.

#KnittingGanseys,revisedAndUpdated #NetGalley

[Cassandra · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed the photos and details about historical gansey knits. The book is organized to read along with the construction of a sweater, either a sampler or a full sweater as I did. The major hiccup for me occurred at the shoulders and neckline. The options and differences weren't explained as clearly in the text or visuals. I had to go on my intuition with regards to the neck. The instructions for the neckline bind off and shaping were separated from the collar construction by the sleeves section.

[Laurie · Rating 5 out of 5]

The author goes into great detail about how to knit and design a traditional gansey sweater. She starts with a small sample sweater project to teach all the techniques, but elaborates how to apply these to a full-size sweater. No worries about size inclusivity here—she provides all the information needed to make a sweater customized to your measurements and design preferences.

For more stitch pattern ideas, I highly recommend The Gansey Knitting Sourcebook by Di Gilpin and Sheila Greenwell. I think these two books are perfect companions.

[Anne · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book tells you all you need to know about knitting ganseys. It's filled with easy to follow instructions for many different techniques and details for how to create your own gansey pattern. I would have given it five starts but unfortunately several pages have fallen out, which is frustrating when you're trying to follow a quite complicated pattern.

[Rebekah Lawrence · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a book! Fantastic but I read it at the library. There was so many good tips in there I jotted down in my knitting journal but mano I’m going to need to buy the book to really digest it. It’s well written. It’s understandable. But it’s a lot to take in. I’ll finish some other projects before taking on this expedition.

[Gwen · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a lovely addition to my collection of knitting books regarding sweaters. I ended up buying the book because I so enjoyed the detailed instruction and the seamless sweater patterns. I have recommended this book to my knitting friends as they love to knit sweaters.

[Jean Brazil · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book has a variety of gansey patterns and instructional techniques. I received a free copy to review from Netgalley. Unfortunately, the formatting was off on my Kindle so it was hard to view the pictures.

[Tilden · Rating 4 out of 5]

Everything you wanted to know about how to knit and design a gansey sweater.
I didn't particularly like her designs and I'm not going to design my own. Very useful information however if you want to learn all the details.

[Carla · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great book! Good explanation, pictures, alternatives. Made easy.

[Robin Hatcher · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is the go to book for knitting Ganseys. It's fairly technical, but easy to follow. It is to Ganseys what Alice Starmore is to Fairisle. I just plain love this book.

[Charlie · Rating 5 out of 5]

An updated version of an absolute classic, there really isn't any other book that comes close. Knitting ganseys is a challenge, and when done with authentic Guernsey wool is the kind of heirloom project that any knitter can be proud of. For this edition, Ms. Brown-Reinsel not only provides several new patterns, but also full colour photographs of the finished results including closeups of key areas. Highly recommended.

[Christine]

More history, techniques and schematics in one place than I've seen even in Priscilla Gibson Roberts work, with great neck and welt details. I also liked the mini-projects to explain technique before large patterns to make for a garment, you can tell she's taught many classes.