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Yankee Rock & Ice: A History of Climbing in the Northeastern United States

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- First time in paperback Celebrated climbers Guy and Laura Waterman trace the growth of this popular sport by focusing on the first ascents of classic routes and the climbers who made them legendary: John Case on the Adirondacks' Indian Head and Wallface; Robert Underhill and Lincoln O'Brien on Cannon; Fritz Wiessner on Breakneck Ridge. More contemporary climbers Jim McCarthy, Henry Barber, Lynn Hill, and Hugh Herr are described in full detail. Ethics and style, the evolution of ice climbing, the changing role of women in climbing, and developments in technique and equipment are explored.

352 pages, Paperback

First published March 1, 1993

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About the author

Laura Waterman

12 books8 followers
Laura Waterman grew up in New Jersey. Her father, Emily Dickinson scholar, Thomas H. Johnson, taught at the Lawrenceville School. Laura graduated from Hollins University in 1962 with a major in English. 

For the decade of the Sixties, she was an editor in book publishing in New York City.  In 1969 she began climbing and met Guy Waterman, a speechwriter, formerly on Capitol Hill. The couple were married in l972, and in l973, moved to Vermont to establish an off-the-grid homestead.

For the next nearly 30 years, Laura and Guy collaboratively wrote books about mountain ethics and stewardship, subjects that grew out of their own climbing life. Those titles include The Green Guide to Low-Impact Hiking and Camping (formerly titled Backwoods Ethics) and Wilderness Ethics: Preserving the Spirit of Wildness. They also penned two books on the social and trail building history of the Northeast's mountain ranges: Forest and Crag and Yankee Rock & Ice. Their collection, A Fine Kind of Madness: Mountain Adventures Tall and True was a posthumous publication for Guy who died in 2000. 

Guy's choice to take his own life steered Laura to write Losing the Garden: The Story of a Marriage, a memoir about their homesteading, writing, and climbing years, and Laura's attempt to understand her own role in her husband's decision. The book was  selected as an Editor's Pick by the Boston Globe. 

Most recently Laura has published a novel, Starvation Shore, about the Lt. Greely Arctic Expedition (1881-1884). Laura, and posthumously Guy, were awarded the David Brower Conservation Award from the American Alpine Club in 2012, and Laura, in 2019, was inducted into the AAC's Hall of Mountaineering Excellence. 

Guy's death prompted Laura and friends to found the Waterman Fund that works to conserve the alpine areas of northeastern North America. Learn more at: watermanfund.org.
Visit Laura's website: laurawaterman.com

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Displaying 1 - 5 of 5 reviews
Profile Image for Josh Bradshaw.
3 reviews3 followers
January 15, 2021
This history is well researched, nuanced, and enjoyable. Unlike many climbing histories, Yankee Rock and Ice takes a holistic view instead of merely focusing on cutting edge progressions in difficulty. Some of the most amusing stories involve novice climbers tackling modest objectives.

I particularly appreciated their perspective on ice climbing. As someone who's done most of the climbs discussed in this book, it was fun to imagine how much courage the earlier efforts would have required.

352 reviews
January 19, 2026
A very deep history of Northeast rock and ice climbing. Undoubtedly the best book on this topic. But generally not that fun or interesting to read. Some of the early history stories are great, as are some of the interspersed and often humorous stories of the authors themselves attempting some rock and ice feats. But mainly it is "here is what happened and when" which doesn't do justice to the deep adventure and risk of the efforts described therein.
Profile Image for J.B.P..
28 reviews
March 18, 2018
Who knew the prejudices between rock climbing areas stretched so far back?
Profile Image for Earl Minot.
10 reviews
December 30, 2019
Read the original version, and now the update ... GREAT book if you love climbing. Always nice to see friends mentioned too!
Profile Image for Shawn.
154 reviews3 followers
May 21, 2021
A little dry, but very interesting
Displaying 1 - 5 of 5 reviews

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