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Crack Climbing: The Definitive Guide
2020 Banff Mountain Book Competition Winner - Guidebook 2020 National Outdoor Book Awards Honorable Mention - Instructional
Crack climbing is a highly technical form of movement in which climbers position their hands, feet, and even their entire body in cracks to make upward progress on rock. An advocate for the sport’s aesthetic lines, physicality, and technical know-how, author Pete Whittaker teaches more than sixty Crack School Masterclasses each year and was featured in the popular climbing film Wide Boyz . This detailed and comprehensive guide teaches step-by-step techniques and tips, including
Crack climbing is a highly technical form of movement in which climbers position their hands, feet, and even their entire body in cracks to make upward progress on rock. An advocate for the sport’s aesthetic lines, physicality, and technical know-how, author Pete Whittaker teaches more than sixty Crack School Masterclasses each year and was featured in the popular climbing film Wide Boyz . This detailed and comprehensive guide teaches step-by-step techniques and tips, including
- GenresClimbingNonfiction
304 pages, Paperback
Published November 26, 2019
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131 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 14 of 14 reviews
May 13, 2020
To quote from Dickens, “it was the best of times, it was the worst of times”. Odd way to start a review but if you consider that I started reading this book at the start of the COVID-19 lockdown here in the UK maybe you’ll understand. It gave me something to read (best of times) but I then couldn’t go out on the rock and practice what it was preaching (worst of times).
Whilst it seems there is a now a generation of “crack free” climbers brought up on sanitized climbing walls and bolted sports routes devoid of crack lines, crack climbing is something that I grew up with in the 1970’s and at the time was considered the norm. Rarely did we venture out on to the blank, unprotected walls, preferring instead the safety and security of the cracks.
When I first saw this book I thought there probably wasn’t a lot about crack climbing that I didn’t already know. Wrong. Pete Whittaker has done a fantastic job in writing a book that is at the same time educational, entertaining and informative.
It is set out in a logical sequence of chapters ranging from finger cracks, hand cracks, offwidths and even wider with text and illustrations a plenty. In Whittaker’s own words it’s the illustrations that “…bring the book to life.” There are even chapters that discuss gear, equipment and the all important one for me, taping, a dark art in itself.
I’ll confess that I started to read the book as if it was a novel, starting on page one and diligently reading each page in turn. About a third of the way through, and still under lockdown, I realised that this is essentially a text book of how to crack climb and that it should be treated as such. As I’m currently still unable to climb outside and try out new techniques and improve old ones, my copy is getting covered in annotations and notes waiting for the day when we can once again venture out onto the crags.
Interspersed between the chapters are more than a dozen single page “meet the master” mini interviews with, to name a few, Lynn Hill, Jerry Moffatt, Alex Honnold, Ron Fawcett and of course the other wide boy, Tom Randall. Each follows the same format of questions and this helps to break up the book into not just being a “how to” book.
Something else that elevates the book beyond the realms of just appearing to be an instructional guide is the number and quality of colour photographs. All are good but the full page chapter illustration pictures are exceptional.
In writing this review I flicked back through the book to look at the comments I’d made in its margins, one in particular stood out, “fear the fist”. Roll on the end of lock down - I need to get out and practice those fist jams.
Whilst it seems there is a now a generation of “crack free” climbers brought up on sanitized climbing walls and bolted sports routes devoid of crack lines, crack climbing is something that I grew up with in the 1970’s and at the time was considered the norm. Rarely did we venture out on to the blank, unprotected walls, preferring instead the safety and security of the cracks.
When I first saw this book I thought there probably wasn’t a lot about crack climbing that I didn’t already know. Wrong. Pete Whittaker has done a fantastic job in writing a book that is at the same time educational, entertaining and informative.
It is set out in a logical sequence of chapters ranging from finger cracks, hand cracks, offwidths and even wider with text and illustrations a plenty. In Whittaker’s own words it’s the illustrations that “…bring the book to life.” There are even chapters that discuss gear, equipment and the all important one for me, taping, a dark art in itself.
I’ll confess that I started to read the book as if it was a novel, starting on page one and diligently reading each page in turn. About a third of the way through, and still under lockdown, I realised that this is essentially a text book of how to crack climb and that it should be treated as such. As I’m currently still unable to climb outside and try out new techniques and improve old ones, my copy is getting covered in annotations and notes waiting for the day when we can once again venture out onto the crags.
Interspersed between the chapters are more than a dozen single page “meet the master” mini interviews with, to name a few, Lynn Hill, Jerry Moffatt, Alex Honnold, Ron Fawcett and of course the other wide boy, Tom Randall. Each follows the same format of questions and this helps to break up the book into not just being a “how to” book.
Something else that elevates the book beyond the realms of just appearing to be an instructional guide is the number and quality of colour photographs. All are good but the full page chapter illustration pictures are exceptional.
In writing this review I flicked back through the book to look at the comments I’d made in its margins, one in particular stood out, “fear the fist”. Roll on the end of lock down - I need to get out and practice those fist jams.
April 23, 2021
I bought this when it first came out already thinking I was a pretty good crack climber. The problem with cracks is that every once in a while you climb another one that just absolutely shuts you down. To the inexperienced, crack climbing is brute thuggery and a question of strength and determination, but there's actually a whole discipline in itself here and while those traits are definitely merited, unless you understand the full repertoire of body movement and styles, you will have holes in your skillset and it's just a matter of time til you're hang-dogging a dogleg thin hand exclaiming you've been sandbagged, then checking UKC and seeing people have walked it.
These skills are really hard to commit to paper and are better learned in practice; meaning you either have to be fortunate enough to be coached, or willing to leave all kinds of DNA in cracks around the uk while you get spanked repeatedly and retreat to lick your wounds... literally. This book I feel has a very good attempt at changing that. It breaks down cracks into a variety of types, has a new style of really well thought out diagram showing how the force is applied, backed up with various snippets from climbing legends.
Whether you're a wall rat who has realised that they can no longer avoid this discipline, someone looking to hone their technique or someone looking at the worlds larger challenges, I reckon this book is the new standard and can help you make climbs that would normally be a real struggle into something verging on type-1 enjoyable.
These skills are really hard to commit to paper and are better learned in practice; meaning you either have to be fortunate enough to be coached, or willing to leave all kinds of DNA in cracks around the uk while you get spanked repeatedly and retreat to lick your wounds... literally. This book I feel has a very good attempt at changing that. It breaks down cracks into a variety of types, has a new style of really well thought out diagram showing how the force is applied, backed up with various snippets from climbing legends.
Whether you're a wall rat who has realised that they can no longer avoid this discipline, someone looking to hone their technique or someone looking at the worlds larger challenges, I reckon this book is the new standard and can help you make climbs that would normally be a real struggle into something verging on type-1 enjoyable.
February 15, 2021
A great book which looks the business straight away, manual or coffee table book?
It manages to be both, sleek design and presentation, inspiring photos from around the world and across the grade spectrum, as well as a fun series of interviews ensure that what could have become a dry technique manual is far more than that. This impression is maintained throughout the book by the authors informal and humorous tone which still manages to convey the hard-fought knowledge he has gained through years of experience. The descriptions are enhanced by the simple illustrations/diagrams used alongside discussions of climbing techniques. The use of black and white drawings for this is particularly effective, this as it allows the viewer to focus on the relevant information, body position in relation to the crack and so on. Initially I was sceptical that much could be learnt about a subject as hands on as crack-climbing from a book but given the desire and an ability to reflect on performances on your local test piece it is possible. Another interesting aspect of the book is the discussion of tactics, from placing protection, clothing and shoe choice to the art of taping up hands. The decision to cover these topics makes the book the go to destination for those looking to improve on or reflect on how they could climb better on cracks in the future.
It manages to be both, sleek design and presentation, inspiring photos from around the world and across the grade spectrum, as well as a fun series of interviews ensure that what could have become a dry technique manual is far more than that. This impression is maintained throughout the book by the authors informal and humorous tone which still manages to convey the hard-fought knowledge he has gained through years of experience. The descriptions are enhanced by the simple illustrations/diagrams used alongside discussions of climbing techniques. The use of black and white drawings for this is particularly effective, this as it allows the viewer to focus on the relevant information, body position in relation to the crack and so on. Initially I was sceptical that much could be learnt about a subject as hands on as crack-climbing from a book but given the desire and an ability to reflect on performances on your local test piece it is possible. Another interesting aspect of the book is the discussion of tactics, from placing protection, clothing and shoe choice to the art of taping up hands. The decision to cover these topics makes the book the go to destination for those looking to improve on or reflect on how they could climb better on cracks in the future.
April 22, 2020
Pete Whittaker’s Crack Climbing is both the best and the worst book for me to read during a virus lockdown. The best, because I have time to savour the depth of insight and detail and read it from cover to cover; the worst, because I’m left constantly itching to get stuck into some real cracks and start applying the knowledge to find out where I’ve been going wrong all these years.
This is THE definitive handbook for climbers on climbing cracks. Written with a light and humorous touch, it combines the specialist knowledge that only comes from extensive experience – and he has plenty of that – with a rare clarity of explanation and excellent illustrations. Add to that high quality and inspirational photographs (many of rock climbing’s most iconic images show someone giving a steep crack lots of wellie or some finesse) and you end up with this gem of a book. It will be a treasure to go back to every time you arrive home with a bruised ego and bleeding hands to find out how that crack could have been climbed so much better with good technique.
Pete Whittaker has carved out a place for himself as a genuine expert in crack climbing. He has succeeded in turning a ‘manual’ into something so much more. It’s a pleasure to read. Good job!
This is THE definitive handbook for climbers on climbing cracks. Written with a light and humorous touch, it combines the specialist knowledge that only comes from extensive experience – and he has plenty of that – with a rare clarity of explanation and excellent illustrations. Add to that high quality and inspirational photographs (many of rock climbing’s most iconic images show someone giving a steep crack lots of wellie or some finesse) and you end up with this gem of a book. It will be a treasure to go back to every time you arrive home with a bruised ego and bleeding hands to find out how that crack could have been climbed so much better with good technique.
Pete Whittaker has carved out a place for himself as a genuine expert in crack climbing. He has succeeded in turning a ‘manual’ into something so much more. It’s a pleasure to read. Good job!
September 19, 2022
The definitive guide to crack climbing. This book reads very well but has the added benefit of being an extremely well organized guidebook. The organization and illustration in this book is next to perfect and makes referencing on the fly very easy.
January 5, 2021
Very informative book with lots of great illustrations from one of the best in the business. Now I just need to find somewhere to put all this new information to use!
March 29, 2021
Crack climbing bible and dictionary
If you had a question about crack climbing, its in this book. Somehow comprehensive and concise. Look no further for crack climbing info.
If you had a question about crack climbing, its in this book. Somehow comprehensive and concise. Look no further for crack climbing info.
October 17, 2022
Required reading for any crack climber! I’m already deploying the techniques and have become more confident in my jams and locks.
November 16, 2022
Extremely helpful for learning to crack climb. I'm still bad at it but the book makes me feel like I know what I'm doing
Read
November 25, 2022Mail me this if I ever do time
December 19, 2023
Lots of really clutch, interesting stuff.
I had already used a few techniques and impressed a climbing guide before finishing the book!
I’ll definitely keep it around as a reference.
I had already used a few techniques and impressed a climbing guide before finishing the book!
I’ll definitely keep it around as a reference.
April 22, 2020
As a keen climber myself with a passion for crack climbing this book that Pete has put together is superb. It covers the whole spectrum of cracks that the climber will come up against throughout their climbing career. Many climbers shy away from some of the certain crack features found i.e hand jamming or Off-width climbing, as it is seen to be both painful and brutal on the skin and muscles. Pete takes you through all these disciplines in a way that is both easy to visualize and understand, making you want to go out and try the techniques on your next climb.
Its not really a book to read through in one go but rather to come back too now and again to help and re-learn the different techniques and Pete confirms this in the introduction.
The book also includes accounts from some of the worlds top (crack) climbers and their own personal preferences on the size of cracks they enjoy, picking one fault - in my copy of Crack Climbing, one of these interviews is repeated in the book.
Pete's Crack Climbing is an excellent addition, even if you think you have mastered all that there is to know, you will learn something new.
Use it like a tool and it will open up climbs which you once thought of as impossible, giving you the knowledge and skills to climb them. A must have for climbers.
Its not really a book to read through in one go but rather to come back too now and again to help and re-learn the different techniques and Pete confirms this in the introduction.
The book also includes accounts from some of the worlds top (crack) climbers and their own personal preferences on the size of cracks they enjoy, picking one fault - in my copy of Crack Climbing, one of these interviews is repeated in the book.
Pete's Crack Climbing is an excellent addition, even if you think you have mastered all that there is to know, you will learn something new.
Use it like a tool and it will open up climbs which you once thought of as impossible, giving you the knowledge and skills to climb them. A must have for climbers.
April 21, 2020
This book is an encyclopedia of crack climbing techniques. If you want to know how to climb any width of crack, this book will give you the knowledge to do so.
It contains explicit instructions, clear diagrams and some mind blowingly inspirational photos. The climber profiles are a nice addition, breaking up the more technical main body of the book.
I wouldn't advise sitting down and reading it cover to cover as the technical detail can become overwhelming, but if you have a specific question, or width, in mind, this book likely has the answer.
The book is well produced, and looks like a professional production inside and out.
If you want to speed up your education in crack climbing, this book will help you get on the fast-track.
It contains explicit instructions, clear diagrams and some mind blowingly inspirational photos. The climber profiles are a nice addition, breaking up the more technical main body of the book.
I wouldn't advise sitting down and reading it cover to cover as the technical detail can become overwhelming, but if you have a specific question, or width, in mind, this book likely has the answer.
The book is well produced, and looks like a professional production inside and out.
If you want to speed up your education in crack climbing, this book will help you get on the fast-track.
March 21, 2020
Excellent. Straight out of the box this book looks good enough for the coffee table....really nicely laid out.
It also has substance - the book is divided into chapters which cover everything from selecting and placing gear, to hand and feet techniques for every crack/corner imaginable! This is great for climbers like me who will be regularly revisiting the sections.
I love the input and different perspectives from other climbers. It stops the book becoming too much of a manual and keeps it at "conversation".
It also has substance - the book is divided into chapters which cover everything from selecting and placing gear, to hand and feet techniques for every crack/corner imaginable! This is great for climbers like me who will be regularly revisiting the sections.
I love the input and different perspectives from other climbers. It stops the book becoming too much of a manual and keeps it at "conversation".
Displaying 1 - 14 of 14 reviews