The Woman At Otowi Crossing

by Frank Waters

Based on the real life of Edith Warner, who ran a tearoom at Otowi Crossing, just below Los Alamos, The Woman at Otowi Crossing is the story of Helen Chalmer, a person in tune with her adopted environment and her neighbors in the nearby Indian pueblo and also a friend of the first atomic scientists. The secret evolution of atomic research is a counterpoint to her psychic development. In keeping with its tradition of allowing the best of its list to thrive, Ohio University Press/Swallow Press is particularly proud to reissue The Woman at Otowi Crossing by best-selling author Frank Waters. This new edition features an introduction by Professor Thomas J. Lyon and a foreword by the author’s widow, Barbara Waters. The story is quintessential a parable for the potentially destructive materialism of the mid-twentieth century. The antidote is Helen Chalmer’s ability to understand a deeper truth of her being; beyond the Western notion of selfhood, beyond the sense of a personality distinct from the rest, she experiences a new and wider awareness. The basis for an opera of the same name, The Woman at Otowi Crossing is the powerful story of the crossing of cultures and a fable for our times.

Genres: Fiction, Westerns, Indigenous

314 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 1965

About the author

Frank Waters was an American novelist, essayist, and cultural historian best known for his profound explorations of the American Southwest and Native American spirituality. Deeply influenced by his Cheyenne heritage and early experiences on the Navajo Reservation, Waters wove themes of indigenous identity, mysticism, and the clash between tradition and modernity into much of his work. His celebrated novel The Man Who Killed the Deer (1942) is considered a cornerstone of Southwestern literature, offering a powerful portrayal of a Pueblo man’s internal struggle with cultural dislocation. Over the decades, Waters produced an impressive body of work, including both fiction and non-fiction, such as Book of the Hopi, Mexico Mystique, and The Colorado, which blended mythology, history, and esoteric thought. A strong advocate for the arts, he held various editorial and academic positions and was honored with several awards. His legacy lives on through the Frank Waters Foundation, which supports writers and artists in the spirit of his creative vision.

Reviews

[Carla · Rating 5 out of 5]

I discovered The Woman at Otowi Crossing in the late 1990s. It spoke to me in such a way that I wrote the executors of Frank Waters’ estate to get permission to use a paragraph in the flyleaf of my own book Calling Our Spirits Home—and they graciously complied.

"So all these scribbled pages, Jack, are to help you understand that an awakening or Emergence, as the Indians call it, is more than a single momentary experience. It requires a slow painful process of realization and orientation… How many thousands of obscure people like me all the world over are having the same experience right now? And for no apparent reason, like me. Keeping quiet about it, too."

—From Helen Chalmers’ journal in The Woman at Otowi Crossing

The book by Frank Waters is a fictional account of the real-life Edith Warner, there called Helen Chalmers, who ran a tearoom at Otowi Crossing, near both Los Alamos and San Ildefonso Pueblo, for more than twenty years until the Chile train line shut down. Set during the time of the research and development of the atomic bomb, it creates a juxtaposition between the ancient ways and beliefs of pueblo life, modern science and so-called progress. The secrets of those things kept hidden were in the air, the goings-on at Los Alamos as well as influences from her close relationship with the Pueblo people. They permeated Helen’s days in such a way that it created awakenings in her, what she called Emergences. The Woman at Otowi Crossing is replete with such rich aphorisms as the one below, reflecting, too, Waters’ own journey of consciousness.

"…Perhaps none of us really learn anything by degrees. We just keep absorbing things unconsciously without realizing what they mean. Till suddenly, for no apparent reason, it all comes into focus with a blinding flash…"

Historically, Waters’ book would be of interest, too, weaving in the likes of Neils Bohr, Robert Oppenheimer, local Pueblo people and others who frequented Helen’s tearoom. If you’re like me, then, after you read The Woman at Otowi Crossing, you’ll rush out to get The House at Otowi Bridge by Peggy Pond Church. It could almost be considered a companion, one not to be read without the other. Church’s book is a biography of the legendary Edith Warner, a complex woman who lived simply in an out-of-the-way place in a controversial time, and gained wide respect by those who knew her.

[Electra McNeil · Rating 1 out of 5]

It's official you guys. DNFed. I NEVER DNF. I could not STAND IT!!! The whiteness of it all!! The maleness! Good grief! Every single POC and woman in this book is a complete caricature. It made me genuinely sick at times.
I've read many books (many, many by white men) written longggg before this that don't even near the amount of racism, misogyny, and general bigotry absolutely pouring out of this (additionally, imo) poorly written book. My eye may never stop twitching.
I might try again, as this was recommended by my grandmother. But I'm a gen z punk rock person, okay? I pushed myself enough. I have to put it down. It's making me hate reading.
I will say I enjoyed some of the more spiritual elements. They were pretty at times. But I always like that shit and, Frank, you're third eye isn't open in the slightest-- not even a squint!-- if you're depicting every single person who doesn't look exactly like you as a stereotypical idiot.

[Donna · Rating 1 out of 5]

I simply can't believe that there are no other one-star reviews for this book. I initially chose to read it as part of a "trip west challenge" for which I wanted to read a book set in each of the states I passed through on a trip from Buffalo to San Diego. This sounded like a wonderful New Mexico choice. Two thirds of the way in, I have decided to find another selection, and those who know me, know that I seldom abandon a book!

I loved the concept of this story based on the life of Edith Warner, who adopted a simple life in rural New Mexico and immersed herself in the culture of the inhabitants of the local pueblo. With the arrival of world-reknowned scientists to work on the Manhattan project and a sudden decline in her health, life changes for Edith (here know as Helen Chalmers).

As the novel develops, all of the interpersonal relationships feel stilted and awkward. None of the decisions made or actions taken seem consistent with the characters, and seem unlikely to have transpired under any true-life circumstances. Every conversation left me skeptical. The quality of writing is not bad, and the descriptions of the setting are quite nice, but that is not enough to carry the book.

I decided to do a bit of research on Edith Warner, just to see how true to reality this story is, and I was not surprised to discover how much the author deviated from reality. I know this is billed as fiction, but in my opinion good historical fiction builds upon what is known without making changes that completely alter the reader's perception of people and events. I found that Edith was never married, unlike our heroine who abandons her husband and child to move out west. There was no Anglo lover. In fact, some reviewers surmise that Frank Walters modeled Jack after himself. Finally, I learned that Edith's goddaughter wrote to the author questioning the validity of his depiction of Edith Warner, and stating that the true story needed none of his manipulations to make a pleasing tale. I am inclined to agree, based on what I have read.

The novel did pique my interest in this character. The place and time are fascinating. I am pleased to find that there is another account written by an aquaintance of Edith Warner (The House at Otowi Bridge: The Story of Edith Warner and Los Alamos) as well as an annotated collection of the her writings (In the Shadow of Los Alamos: Selected Writings). I will be adding one of these to my to read list!

[Judy · Rating 4 out of 5]

Now I want to read a biography of Edith Warner, the 'real' woman at Otowi Crossing. Not action-packed but definitely engrossing. Obviously, the dialogues are from Waters' imagination, but I wish he had included some notes about the historical accuracy of happenings at Los Alamos and the veracity of the facts about Warner's life and relationships.

[Michael Rudzik · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you love New Mexico and the culture this is a wonderful read. Is a bit wordy in areas but overall elicits memories of Santa Fe and culture. I absolutely loved this book. The author weaves various themes easy to follow. Loved it

[Robert Mitchell · Rating 5 out of 5]

One of the benefits of reading The Woman At Otowi Crossing was that I was forced to admit that not only am I woefully ignorant about the American Southwest, but there is a ton of history, religion, philosophy, science and mysticism tied to an area I had written off as “that hot stretch between California and Texas.” Another confession: ignoring all evidence to the contrary, as a Washingtonian, I have always claimed Colorado as one of “our” states (i.e. northwestern), mentally fudging its location to approximately that of southern Montana and northern Wyoming, two states I am at times guilty of disregarding entirely. Thanks to Frank Waters’ tremendous novel, my geographic prejudices have been corrected and a vast territory has been opened for me to belatedly explore.

Fortunately, there are millions of folks out there who have lived and breathed the Southwest all their lives and many of them have opinions about Water’s depiction of Edith Warner, the “Woman” of the title. This isn’t surprising since Ms. Warner perfectly personifies the unique intersection of past, present and future (concepts she ironically didn’t believe in); of Spanish, Native American and Anglo; and of science, religion and mysticism; that existed where two bridges, railroad and automobile, crossed the Rio Grande down the hill from the top secret Los Alamos Laboratory. In deference to the debate, I plan to check out The House at Otowi Bridge: The Story of Edith Warner and Los Alamos written by one of her close friends, a distinguished American Poet, Peggy Pond Church; as well as Patrick Burns’ In the Shadow of Los Alamos: Selected Writings of Edith Warner. With that said, Waters’ perspective appears to be unique because he worked at Los Alamos and spent years studying Hopi, Pueblo and Navaho culture and history.

At first I was surprised there haven’t been more retellings (that I could find) of what is truly a remarkable American story, but after reading Waters’ book, I realized that the gripping subject matter is both a blessing and a curse. While intrinsically fascinating, it would be awfully easy to muck up the story with anything more dramatic than an encyclopedia entry. Waters pulls it off with an almost journalistic objectivity (he was also a newsman), in which human beings with normal human failings and passions collide like the atoms on top of the hill. There are no saints, only sinners and if you thought that the Pancho’s Bar scene in The Right Stuff was anachronistic, wait until you read about Manhattan Project scientists helping patch the roof of a tearoom without running water. You’ll find those kinds of juxtapositions throughout this captivating novel. Underlying it all, of course, is the question of perception and reality. The people, the landscape and the events transfix us, but we’re constantly challenged to decide whether any of it truly matters (pun intended).

[Kristine Morris · Rating 4 out of 5]

A marvelous novel. A story about the development of the atomic bomb near Los Alamos and the spiritual awakening of a woman who is a true south western legend. The supporting characters are very strong, and the description of the landscape and southwestern Indian culture was enchanting. I was totally engrossed.

I was given this book by the owner of a B&B in Buffalo where I stayed last summer. Since I love Louise Erdrich, she recommended Frank Waters - and she happened to have an extra copy of this book. So glad she did as he was not even on my radar.

[Diana Biggs · Rating 5 out of 5]

I forget what a wonderful writer Frank Waters is - definitely a Western man, love this book.

[Leslie Reiber · Rating 3 out of 5]

Kind of a jumble of a book but full of interesting observation, and
sometimes insight, into New Mexico and the American era of atomic development. The primary plot of the story tries to illustrate the spiritual "awakening" of the title character -- which never rings true to me, turns me off, but probably works for a lot of readers. Still, I enjoyed reading it and learned a lot.

[Timothy Roessler · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fascinating account of a woman experiencing a mystic enlightenment as the scientists at Los Alamos are changing the world forever -- a journey backwards into primal myth and forwards into what used to be called the Atomic age.

[Jean Becker · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a generous 4 points. I was hoping to learn more about Edith Warner, the real woman upon whom the novel is based. However, the story wandered all over every possible tangent (and there were so, so many) that Edith/Helen’s story was minimized and obscured.
I’ve only read one other Frank Waters’ books, The Man Who Killed the Deer, and it was full of digressions too. They filled in the picture around the central character and his time and place. Since I knew nothing of this event, it was a satisfying whole.
In The Woman at Otowi Crossing, I kept asking myself “Why include this?” A not very satisfying whole.

[J I]

Very interesting. Well-told fictional tale of the early days of Los Alamos during WWII from the perspective of its effect on a few of the local population.

Still digesting the content, so will rate and perhaps write more later.

[Olivia Matz · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very philisophical, not plot driven. Not nessesarily an easy read, but I finished it and enjoyed it. Would recommend if you are interested in Native American culture, being on a journey of self discovery and tuning into your intuition.

[Anne McMillan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesting read, with great observations about the southwest, its inhabitants and the natural world, contrasted with the spiritual. I enjoyed the juxtaposition of dramatic historical events concerning the atom bomb, and the different characters who came to life in this novel.

[Cricket Rose · Rating 4 out of 5]

Lovely but overly detailed scientific writing. The relationships kept evolving around a real character. Historical fiction with a side of romance. Fascinating to read.

[David · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very interesting historical fiction. Intersects atomic age and traditional spirituality of Southwest Native tribes. Good character development.

[Karen Gallant · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fascinating read.

[Gypsy Lady · Rating 3 out of 5]

The cover pictured is not the cover on my copy (revised 1987).

Page 26
For to balance the pallor of his complexion was the dead-pan expression of his fine, regular features. They were set like concrete in an immobile look of disinterested pleasantry; a perfect expression of the frigid, inhibited, Puritan inheritance of his controlled breeding.

Page 95
Writing steadily, Emily traced the development of the rude cists in which the people had stored their corn, into the first pit houses. Then they had become underground kivas in which were conducted religious ceremonies. And now after a thousand years these great feminine, womb-like kivas sunk deep in Mother Earth still existed as [one example of] Indian America's church, in contrast to the traditional church of Euro-America with it[s] masculine, phallic spire aggressively thrusting into the sky.

Page 115
Their meetings on companionable procedure had begun in April. Now it was late June, and his first experiment in the simple mystery of living had begun -- the only true science of mankind.

Page 122
Trouble and weather were never so bad when you got out into them. (!)

Page 183
New Mexico politics, as Turner knew, were probably the most devious of any state in the country, and in these upriver counties they were the worst. The poor Spanish people, isolated and remote, had existed in a peonage system from earliest times: first as actual peons under the whip of Spanish grandees and rich hacendados, then succumbing under American domination to the reign of politicos who exploited their racial inferiority to combat the ever-encroaching Anglo aggressiveness. Each little village had its jefe politico. He bought votes, helped the people to mark their crosses on their ballots, distributed patronage. It was an economic rather than a political system, really. A hot-blooded Democrat might stick a neighbor Republican with his knife, but next year he was a Republican and just as rabid. Politics was only an exciting game played with Spanish pride and fervor.

Page 192
A child! The corollary of a pregnancy was a child. A mathematical certainty. This was something he hadn't thought out.

Page 301
"The characters [in the play] were homosexuals, perverts, nymphomaniacs, lymphomoniacs [could not find this word/spelling in the on-line dictionary], neurotics and criminals, all cursing terribly and shouting quite too loudly. They reminded Helen of the creatures one finds under a rotting log in the forest."

These are very poor comparisons. On a positive note, it is a real relief to read that the characteristics and volume are not a contribution of my era, only a perpetuation.)

[Terry · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fantastic book about a woman running a tea house at the Otowi bridge surrounding the time of Los Alamos' atomic developments. Helen becomes aware of the illusion of time and the power of staying in touch with the power and permanence of self. The book is full of contrasts: Helen's old life and her life in NM; Helen and her daughter, the San I indians and the scientists. Because of Helen's peace and awareness, she is revered as a good witch. Water's message is that we have an inner world that is timeless. Very fine book.

[Karen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Parallel stories of a woman experiencing a life-transforming event, and the development of the Atomic Bomb at Los Alamos in New Mexico. A little mystical and metaphorical; a thoroughly engrossing book.

[Nancy · Rating 4 out of 5]

Sort of a strange story, but intriguing in the way it looks at the era/place of the Manhattan Project.

[Alice Dawson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great book about New Mexico and the Manhattan Project.

[Kate Stolz · Rating 5 out of 5]

one of my all time favorite books, this is a powerful parable for today. Mr. Waters is an American treasure. this is a reread.

[Steve Hicks · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great spin on the early days of Las Alamos, NM.

[Barbara Adams]

didn't finish