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Learning the ropes: An apprentice in the last of the windjammers

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From the perspective of 60 years on Eric Newby looks back with characteristic humour to his young self and his days on board 'Moshulu' and pays tribute, with his photographs, to these magnificent ships and their crews. No one with a love of the sea or a sense of the past could fail to be moved and excited by them.

144 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 1999

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About the author

Eric Newby

42 books173 followers
George Eric Newby CBE MC (December 6, 1919 – October 20, 2006) was an English author of travel literature.

Newby was born and grew up near Hammersmith Bridge, London, and was educated at St Paul's School. His father was a partner in a firm of wholesale dressmakers but he also harboured dreams of escape, running away to sea as a child before being captured at Millwall. Owing to his father's frequent financial crises and his own failure to pass algebra, Newby was taken away from school at sixteen and put to work as an office boy in the Dorland advertising agency on Regent Street, where he spent most of his time cycling around the office admiring the typists' legs. Fortunately, the agency lost the Kellogg's account and he apprenticed aboard the Finnish windjammer Moshulu in 1938, sailing in what Newby entitled The Last Grain Race (1956) from Europe to Australia and back by way of Cape Horn (his journey was also pictorially documented in Learning the Ropes). In fact, two more grain races followed the 1939 race in which Newby participated, with the last race being held in 1949.

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Displaying 1 - 7 of 7 reviews
Profile Image for Edward Payne.
81 reviews2 followers
May 1, 2025
I had just read ‘The Last Grain Race’ so initially I was worried that the opening text was launching into a whole new account of the voyage, but thankfully it did not, and it was interesting to get a little of Newby’s perspective on the whole thing many years on. It is amazing that he managed to take (and bring back) all these photos, especially now that we know just how historic that year’s voyage was.
Profile Image for Keith Taylor.
284 reviews2 followers
April 23, 2022
Superb photos, and a unique account of a trip aboard Gustaf Ericson's "Moshulu" (now a floating restaurant in Philadelphia)
204 reviews1 follower
October 18, 2022
An incredible picture record to sit alongside The Last Grain Race. Absolutely incredible.
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Profile Image for Cara.
12 reviews1 follower
February 1, 2026
I'm biased because I adore tall ships and I've been on Moshulu (in restaurant form), but this was truly the perfect afternoon book.
Displaying 1 - 7 of 7 reviews

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