Freehand Fashion: Learn to Sew the Perfect Wardrobe

by Chinelo Bally

Before appearing on the BBC's The Great British Sewing Bee, Chinelo Bally had never used a sewing pattern. She wowed the judges with her ability to create stylish, fitted garments using a freehand cutting method that was taught to her by an aunt. In Freehand Fashion, Chinelo lets us in to the secret of how she does it. Using a series of basic garment blocks, she explains how this innovative technique can be used to create a whole wardrobe of fashionable clothes that will fit every shape and size - with no patterns required. Based on a traditional Nigerian technique, Chinelo has developed her own freehand cutting method. The emphasis is on the individual's own body measurements, and getting the perfect fit. This is a surprisingly simple technique that anyone can learn. No fancy equipment is needed - just a sewing machine, measuring tape, chalk and of course a good pair of scissors. Using step-by-step illustrations, the book shows how to draft, cut and construct the five basic blocks that are used - either singly or in combination - to make every item of clothing in the wardrobe. Once you have your basic blocks, you are ready to tackle the projects - practical garments that are fashionable, modern, stylish and versatile. There are tops, skirts, day dresses and eveningwear. This is an exciting sewing technique that will be brand new to most people, even experienced dressmakers. There really are no limits - and the beauty of this technique is that it can be applied to any body shape.

Genres: Sewing, Nonfiction, Fashion, Crafts

192 pages, Kindle Edition

First published November 12, 2015

Reviews

[Vanessa Hutchinson · Rating 3 out of 5]

I was intrigued by the freehand drafting technique. The book has great projects and lovely diagrams. It shows you how to make a bodice, skirt, dress and sleeve blocks. No pants block, in case you were wondering. It also has quite detailed instructions on measuring and also how to sew different seems.
I haven't made any yet but I am planning to soon. A couple of things puzzle me though. There are instructions for creating a block pattern yet no instructions for fitting the muslin/template. Also there is not much mention of ease. I'm looking to make the jacket and there doesn't seem to be any info about how much ease to add. I don't want it to be so tight I can barely move in it.
Also once you've made the block pattern how do you use it? Or is it just practice? It seems to be that you draft the pattern each time you make something.

Some weeks later...

I was right! I began work on the jacket. Skin tight. Additional cms were only for seam allowance. Fine if you're using stretch fabric perhaps but wovens will leave you constricted. And sad.

The sleeve block needs wearing ease and then more ease for the jacket.

I am left wondering how this managed to go to print without this omission being picked up.

Not the end of the world though. I've still got a block pattern that by quizzing my dressmaker friends I can the right amount of ease.

[Ariel · Rating 5 out of 5]

Creating your own Clothes

Chinelo makes the complicated easily understood . It's a book that lends itself to those who would love to create their clothes to fit their own body shape . While being inspired by others designs now have skills and confidence to make clothes that fit comfortably.

[Гергана · Rating 5 out of 5]

Very interesting book - it shows how to sew clothes without sewing patterns.
It is good for non-experienced sewers, also it is fresh approach for experienced sewers.
I really liked that some the projects are complicated with lining, some are easy.
Will definitely try few things in the newer future. I have already started the pencil skirt.

[Amuse · Rating 3 out of 5]

Sewing without a commercial pattern. The author shows you how to create basic shapes. Good for young sewers who want to experiment.

[Helen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Not a beginners book. Good ideas.

[Mills College Library]

646.404 B193 2015

[Starr · Rating 4 out of 5]

Seems like a fun way yo sew, can't wait to try it.

[Verity · Rating 5 out of 5]

You may recognise Chinelo Bally as the finalist of the second season of The Great British Sewing Bee where she wowed everyone with her unusual pattern-free approach to sewing.
This book is pretty much a thorough explantation of some of her most famous designs (in order from the simplist to most complex) and a detailed description of her method.
I'm marking this as read but I have no doubt I'll be referring to it numerous time in the future.
It's one of the few sewing books I've read that I can fully recommend!

[Meredith · Rating 4 out of 5]

I don't think I'm quite up to this level of technique yet.....but after a few simpler projects of the "easy makes for beginners" variety, I will get my hands on this book again to give it a proper go.

This method is how I have always wanted to learn to sew......to me it has always seemed pointless to have to buy a pattern that is made to fit a lot of different people and then change it to fit you. Why not start with making a pattern that fits you and learn how to design things the way you want them?

That's exactly what Chinelo shows you how to do and I'm really looking forward to feeling a bit more confident with the machine etc to learn how to do that.

I wish she did classes closer to me.....might have to see if could get up to London for one of her classes sometime.

[Tasneem · Rating 3 out of 5]

I wish I could sew like her.

[Wanda Kullman · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good book if interested in only clothing shown

I was hoping the blocks and the information would help me create my own designs. I was looking for something that would help me change a neckline, add ease for less structure etc. I am sure after I have used the blocks for a while I could figure it out. This seems to be traditional pattern making. The blocks look like the same ones I've created in the past. There is no pants block, which would have been nice. There are some cute designs which I will try though

[Vickie Gillespie · Rating 5 out of 5]

With a few measurements she marks the cloth and cuts the fabric. No patterns required. It's an interesting read, but I haven't taken the plunge and tried her method yet.

[Erica · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wonderful resource for sewists of all sizes

I like patterns as much as anyone, but I'm both plus size and very tall, so the work involved in making them work for me is not trivial. I love the way this book lays out the thought process behind pattern drafting directly onto fabric. It seems like I'm going to do the work anyway - why not just skip the pattern altogether? I only wish there was some guidance about drafting pants - this is tops and skirts/dresses only.