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Odavde do Lepanta - Istočnom Jadranskom i Jonskom obalom po moru povijesti
Putopis objavljen po prvi puta u kolovozu 2004. u dnevniku ''La Repubblica''.
Talijanski pisac i novinar Paolo Rumiz, više od pet stoljeća nakao velike pomorske bitke kod Lepanta gdje su se sukobile turska i kršćanska mornarica, odlučio je krenuti putem venecijanske ratne mornarice od Venecije do Lepanta. Na svom putu prošao je istočnu obalu Jadrana, od rta Kamenjak na jugu Istre, dalje uz dalmatinsku obalu, sve do grčke obale i mjesta održavanja bitke. Autor je ploveći na jedrilici preplovio više tisuća milja, sreo različite narode i kulture, kojima je jedina zajednička osobina pripadnost Mediteranu. Putujući ka Lepantu, Rumiz u formi slobodnijeg dnevnika evocira događaje iz bliže i dalje prošlosti naroda koje obitavaju duž istočnojadranske obale: Talijana, Slovenaca, Hrvata, Crnogoraca, Albanaca i Grka vukući istodobno paralelu između događaja iz svog vremena i vremena Lepantske bitke, posljednje velike bitke brodova na vesla.
Talijanski pisac i novinar Paolo Rumiz, više od pet stoljeća nakao velike pomorske bitke kod Lepanta gdje su se sukobile turska i kršćanska mornarica, odlučio je krenuti putem venecijanske ratne mornarice od Venecije do Lepanta. Na svom putu prošao je istočnu obalu Jadrana, od rta Kamenjak na jugu Istre, dalje uz dalmatinsku obalu, sve do grčke obale i mjesta održavanja bitke. Autor je ploveći na jedrilici preplovio više tisuća milja, sreo različite narode i kulture, kojima je jedina zajednička osobina pripadnost Mediteranu. Putujući ka Lepantu, Rumiz u formi slobodnijeg dnevnika evocira događaje iz bliže i dalje prošlosti naroda koje obitavaju duž istočnojadranske obale: Talijana, Slovenaca, Hrvata, Crnogoraca, Albanaca i Grka vukući istodobno paralelu između događaja iz svog vremena i vremena Lepantske bitke, posljednje velike bitke brodova na vesla.
- GenresNonfiction
176 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2004
About the author
Paolo Rumiz
62 books159 followersPaolo Rumiz è un giornalista e scrittore italiano.
Inviato speciale del "Piccolo di Trieste" e in seguito editorialista di "la Repubblica", segue dal 1986 gli eventi dell'area balcanica e danubiana; durante la dissoluzione della Jugoslavia segue in prima linea il conflitto prima in Croazia e successivamente in Bosnia ed Erzegovina.
Nel novembre 2001 è stato inviato ad Islamabad e successivamente a Kabul, per documentare l'attacco statunitense all'Afghanistan.
Inviato speciale del "Piccolo di Trieste" e in seguito editorialista di "la Repubblica", segue dal 1986 gli eventi dell'area balcanica e danubiana; durante la dissoluzione della Jugoslavia segue in prima linea il conflitto prima in Croazia e successivamente in Bosnia ed Erzegovina.
Nel novembre 2001 è stato inviato ad Islamabad e successivamente a Kabul, per documentare l'attacco statunitense all'Afghanistan.
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Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews
March 22, 2026
cool mali putopis
August 22, 2018
Kratka ali sjajna knjiga! Očekivao sam nešto sasvim drugo, pregled povijesti Jadrana, pomorskih bitaka i svega što ide uz to... A dobio sam svojevrsni putopis, "đita" složena od nekoliko etapa, a čitavim putem eruditska priča o povijesti, gastronomiji, porijeklu imena i naziva mjesta i otoka. Sjajno, za svaku preporuku! Žao mi je što, koliko sam vidio, druge Rumizove knjige nisu prevedene na hrvatski niti na engleski...
August 25, 2024
È un libro veramente stupendo, unendo la storia e la modernità con un pizzico anche di comicità. È anche molto interessante perché è così storicamente realistico.
February 24, 2026
Rumiz di solito viaggia in treno. O cammina per i luoghi della Grande guerra.
Questa volta va in barca, seguendo le tracce dell'antica repubblica di Venezia per arrivare a Lepanto, battaglia navale tra la flotta turca e gli alleati cristiani. E quindi di parte da Venezia, che da sola aveva fornito metà delle navi della flotta, per arrivare in Grecia. E quindi si passa per la Croazia, il Montenegro e l'Albania. Storie che si intrecciano con i suoi libri precedenti e con la sua convinzione che adesso ci sia meno Europa che ai tempi dell'impero.
Ultimo capitolo perfetto.
Questa volta va in barca, seguendo le tracce dell'antica repubblica di Venezia per arrivare a Lepanto, battaglia navale tra la flotta turca e gli alleati cristiani. E quindi di parte da Venezia, che da sola aveva fornito metà delle navi della flotta, per arrivare in Grecia. E quindi si passa per la Croazia, il Montenegro e l'Albania. Storie che si intrecciano con i suoi libri precedenti e con la sua convinzione che adesso ci sia meno Europa che ai tempi dell'impero.
Ultimo capitolo perfetto.
September 23, 2024
An excellent read, and, at moments, a frustrating/annoying one, but not enough to stop one from lapping it up until the end, this is a travelogue of a journey, a deeply symbolic one for the author, from Venice to Lepanto.
Rumiz is without a doubt an erudite, with an eye for detail, and very much capable of poetically describing his surroundings, largely well aware of the history of the area he's traveling through, a fair bit of its culture, and, seemingly, capable of attracting interesting individuals to himself. His mission is in essence a noble one - to change the view of the peoples around the Mediterranean, deeply divided in many ways, to a "mare nostrum" one, to point out the perhaps deeper still connections, and foster a wider sense of belonging to a same concept. Through it, he recollects and recounts all the forgotten links, from place names, through stories, language, historical fact and dismissing some historical fiction, to show how connected everything was, and perhaps (the perhaps is absent in his narrative, mind) should be. Lepanto is for him a symbol of where things started to "fall apart" in that regard. With that, he takes us on a unique, compelling journey along Adriatic's east coast and into its "lobby", the Ionian Sea, and the gulf of Patras.
Rumiz is also, while espousing many positive virtues, a Republic of Venice "nationalist" of sorts (no better way to put it) - his nostalgia for it is immense, as is his love for it. However, while he's quick to point out what many in his own country are highly unwilling to admit, or simply fully ignorant about (the historical relations and connections of both sides of the Adriatic, including certain whys as to why some of them were broken in the last century), he simply cannot shake off a certain colonialist perspective Venice had towards the east coast of the Adriatic, and the Slavic, mainly Croatian, people inhabiting it, the "Schiavoni". He will show admiration, but he rarely ceases to look from above on them - even with throwaway comments like that the walls of Dubrovnik were "built by some Italian", partly incorrect, simply believing that "his side" brought everything notable in the end, even there - where the walls were built to protect against Venice. He will extol the virtues and the loyalty of the "Schiavoni" - but also set them fully apart. Second class citizens in the end who should be thankful of the good the benevolent overlords brought. Even if he doesn't mean it, he is ready to accept the sins of the Italian, not of the Venetian. He neglects to mention why there would be discontent, maybe as it doesn't suit his narrative - even if he's aware of it, mention of Venetians enslaving the Slavs is fully absent, no mention of deforestation. The sack of Zadar/Zara by the Fourth Crusade is mentioned in passing, but without acknowledging that it was caused by Venice and ended up by Venice taking the town. He even tries, lapping up the propaganda of the time, to shift blame for conflicts between Venice and Ottomans on the local Croats, who somehow "spurred by the clergy", attack the Ottoman neighbors, completely ignoring the vice-versa, the centuries of it, how the Ottomans even got there, and the fact that they were basically the human shield, buffer zone, between the two. I wouldn't call it perfidious, just something not thought about / thought through. He does his best to orientalize the Croats, where he goes from page to page from the "loyal Schiavoni" to deciding that the happy sounds of local kids playing by the sea are "oriental". His linguistic skills fail him, maybe through cognitive bias, as he claims he recognized locals using the words "mahala" and "papuče", a sign of "Turkish influence on the Croatian language which Zagreb tries to get rid of" - when the first he couldn't have heard as it simply isn't used anywhere in Croatia. The author confused it, perhaps, with the homonymous verb of very much Slavic origin, "mahala", "meaning (she) waved" - while with "papuče" he stumbles into a standard word, "enforced by Zagreb", which someone used over the more commonly used Germanic "šlape". In a time where the local western/northern/southern-influenced cultures of Croatia are being, by force, denied, ignored, even replaced in favor of the eastern-influenced ones, he's, to bolster the wider narrative, accidentally, with several statements, supporting culturocide of that nature, technically promoting that the east should be accepted more when it's being shoved down everyone's throat, while an entire nation is being gaslit that they only belong to that "East" - a slip-up due to a certain lack of knowledge of what's actually going on, as he also gives heaps of evidence very much to the contrary of that notion. I won't bore with more examples, though there are definitely more - some things can be and should be taken as poetic license, some are in the end misguided lecturing from above. That's why the reading was frustrating to me at moments -just witnessing the excellent writer - the intellectual, a well-meaning one, even if perhaps slightly vain one, trying to fill out his blanks in a misleading way. I'm feeling me and the author could agree to disagree on certain things in the end, but some I'd stand my ground on.
Still, this is a great little book that should be read by anyone who is, who feels or who wants to feel Mediterranean. Just don't take everything in there at face value.
Rumiz is without a doubt an erudite, with an eye for detail, and very much capable of poetically describing his surroundings, largely well aware of the history of the area he's traveling through, a fair bit of its culture, and, seemingly, capable of attracting interesting individuals to himself. His mission is in essence a noble one - to change the view of the peoples around the Mediterranean, deeply divided in many ways, to a "mare nostrum" one, to point out the perhaps deeper still connections, and foster a wider sense of belonging to a same concept. Through it, he recollects and recounts all the forgotten links, from place names, through stories, language, historical fact and dismissing some historical fiction, to show how connected everything was, and perhaps (the perhaps is absent in his narrative, mind) should be. Lepanto is for him a symbol of where things started to "fall apart" in that regard. With that, he takes us on a unique, compelling journey along Adriatic's east coast and into its "lobby", the Ionian Sea, and the gulf of Patras.
Rumiz is also, while espousing many positive virtues, a Republic of Venice "nationalist" of sorts (no better way to put it) - his nostalgia for it is immense, as is his love for it. However, while he's quick to point out what many in his own country are highly unwilling to admit, or simply fully ignorant about (the historical relations and connections of both sides of the Adriatic, including certain whys as to why some of them were broken in the last century), he simply cannot shake off a certain colonialist perspective Venice had towards the east coast of the Adriatic, and the Slavic, mainly Croatian, people inhabiting it, the "Schiavoni". He will show admiration, but he rarely ceases to look from above on them - even with throwaway comments like that the walls of Dubrovnik were "built by some Italian", partly incorrect, simply believing that "his side" brought everything notable in the end, even there - where the walls were built to protect against Venice. He will extol the virtues and the loyalty of the "Schiavoni" - but also set them fully apart. Second class citizens in the end who should be thankful of the good the benevolent overlords brought. Even if he doesn't mean it, he is ready to accept the sins of the Italian, not of the Venetian. He neglects to mention why there would be discontent, maybe as it doesn't suit his narrative - even if he's aware of it, mention of Venetians enslaving the Slavs is fully absent, no mention of deforestation. The sack of Zadar/Zara by the Fourth Crusade is mentioned in passing, but without acknowledging that it was caused by Venice and ended up by Venice taking the town. He even tries, lapping up the propaganda of the time, to shift blame for conflicts between Venice and Ottomans on the local Croats, who somehow "spurred by the clergy", attack the Ottoman neighbors, completely ignoring the vice-versa, the centuries of it, how the Ottomans even got there, and the fact that they were basically the human shield, buffer zone, between the two. I wouldn't call it perfidious, just something not thought about / thought through. He does his best to orientalize the Croats, where he goes from page to page from the "loyal Schiavoni" to deciding that the happy sounds of local kids playing by the sea are "oriental". His linguistic skills fail him, maybe through cognitive bias, as he claims he recognized locals using the words "mahala" and "papuče", a sign of "Turkish influence on the Croatian language which Zagreb tries to get rid of" - when the first he couldn't have heard as it simply isn't used anywhere in Croatia. The author confused it, perhaps, with the homonymous verb of very much Slavic origin, "mahala", "meaning (she) waved" - while with "papuče" he stumbles into a standard word, "enforced by Zagreb", which someone used over the more commonly used Germanic "šlape". In a time where the local western/northern/southern-influenced cultures of Croatia are being, by force, denied, ignored, even replaced in favor of the eastern-influenced ones, he's, to bolster the wider narrative, accidentally, with several statements, supporting culturocide of that nature, technically promoting that the east should be accepted more when it's being shoved down everyone's throat, while an entire nation is being gaslit that they only belong to that "East" - a slip-up due to a certain lack of knowledge of what's actually going on, as he also gives heaps of evidence very much to the contrary of that notion. I won't bore with more examples, though there are definitely more - some things can be and should be taken as poetic license, some are in the end misguided lecturing from above. That's why the reading was frustrating to me at moments -just witnessing the excellent writer - the intellectual, a well-meaning one, even if perhaps slightly vain one, trying to fill out his blanks in a misleading way. I'm feeling me and the author could agree to disagree on certain things in the end, but some I'd stand my ground on.
Still, this is a great little book that should be read by anyone who is, who feels or who wants to feel Mediterranean. Just don't take everything in there at face value.
August 29, 2025
Paolo Rumiz riporta su carta il suo viaggio in barca a vela, con partenza da Venezia e arrivo a Lepanto, città che fu teatro dell’omonima battaglia. Fulcro del viaggio è proprio questo: ripercorrere le tappe della flotta della Serenissima. Il testo è immersivo e ti accompagna alla scoperta di ogni aspetto che caratterizza i popoli e le culture che vivono sulle coste dell’Adriatico: croati, sloveni, bosniaci, albanesi, greci. È un racconto di mare, di costumi e tradizioni, ma anche di etimologia: il testo è ricco di riferimenti linguistici che testimoniano il continuo incontro tra Oriente e Occidente. La scrittura è secca, essenziale, ma coinvolgente.
Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews