Beauty and Chaos

by Michael Pronko

“Tokyo is as complex as a long novel, as confusing as an avant-garde film and, sometimes, as strikingly beautiful as calligraphy.”Part memoir, part travelogue, and part culture guide, Beauty and Chaos taps into the daily mysteries and poignant moments that make living in Tokyo a baffling delight. After two-plus decades writing, teaching, and living in Tokyo, American novelist and literature professor, Michael Pronko, reveals what’s beneath the gleaming, puzzling exteriors of the biggest city in the world. Whether contemplating Tokyo’s bonsai houses, pachinko parlors, chopstick ballet, or the perilous habit of running for trains, Pronko explores Tokyo’s back alleys and curious interactions to find the city’s deeper meanings and daily pleasures. Tokyo emerges a fascinating city full of chaotic commotion and serene beauty—one of the most amazing, confusing places in the world.Gold Award eLit Awards for Essays/Creative Non-FictionGold Award Non-Fiction Author’s AssociationGold Award First Place Reader’s Favorite for Cultural Non-FictionBest Nonfiction Books of 2015 Doing Dewey“A clear-eyed but affectionate portrait of a city that reaches beyond simple stereotypes. An elegantly written, precisely observed portrait of a Japanese city and its culture.” Kirkus ReviewsMore www.michaelpronko.com

Genres: Japan, Nonfiction, Essays, Travel

190 pages, Kindle Edition

First published January 1, 2009

About the author

Michael Pronko is an award-winning, Tokyo-based writer of murder, memoir and music. His writings on Tokyo life and his taut character-driven mysteries have won critics’ awards and five-star reviews. Kirkus Reviews called his second novel, The Moving Blade, “An elegant balance of Japanese customs with American-style hard-boiled procedural” and selected it for their Best Books of 2018.

Michael also runs the website, Jazz in Japan, about the vibrant jazz scene in Tokyo and Yokohama. He has written regular columns about Japanese culture, art, jazz, society and politics for Newsweek Japan, The Japan Times, Artscape Japan, Jazznin, and ST Shukan. He has also appeared on NHK and Nippon Television.

A philosophy major, Michael traveled for years, ducking in and out of graduate schools, before finishing his PhD on Charles Dickens and film, and settling in Tokyo as a professor of American Literature at Meiji Gakuin University. He teaches contemporary American novels, film adaptations, music and art.

Reviews

[Patrick Sherriff · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a relief it was to read Michael Pronko's gentle slice-of-life essays on Tokyo, not because this collection was particularly profound (it wasn't) or particularly scathing (not at all) but because his observations of an ex-pat's opinions on life in Tokyo rang true to my own experiences. I found myself nodding in agreement at his attempts to see the bigger picture in the little details that make living in Japan so interesting and often so frustrating. I laughed out loud over his observations about why all Japanese TV dramas feature a shot of the hero or heroine running a long distance in slow motion, why you can judge a Tokyo restaurant's quality by the shoddiness of its signs, and the gentle zen-like beauty of the absurdly worded T-shirts you see on hip young Tokyoites.

Download my starter library for free here - http://eepurl.com/bFkt0X - and receive my monthly newsletter with book recommendations galore for the Japanophile/crime fiction/English teacher in all of us.

[John · Rating 4 out of 5]

I've never been to Japan, although I've read a lot of books that are set there, both fiction and non fiction. Pleasantly surprised to learn that I could appreciate his observations, rarely feeling that I had heard what he had to say before. Looking forward to his other essay collections!

[Rebecca · Rating 4 out of 5]

The pleasant and diverse travel essays in this collection draw on Pronko’s 15 years living in Japan. Anyone who has seen Lost in Translation will retain the sense of a glittering, bewildering place that Westerners wander through in a daze. He notices the kinds of things that might be taken for granted by the Japanese and overlooked entirely by visitors, such as the prevalence of vending machines and bottle displays or the popularity of store bags, loyalty cards and truck deliveries.

See my full review at The Bookbag. (I also did an interview with the author.)

[Book · Rating 5 out of 5]

Visiting Tokyo is an experience that is hard to forget, something that, no matter how experienced world traveler you are, is not comparable with anything else anywhere in the world.

Michael Pronko has lived and wrote in and about Tokyo for fifteen years. Working as a professor at Meiji Gakuin University and teaching American literature, culture, film, music, and art, Pronko is a man that rightly, regardless of his origin, can be called insider. As he nicely wrote -fielding questions from his students about Jackson Pollock or Kurt Vonnegut and then wandering through Shinjuku's neon mayhem always puts ideas for writing into his head, while teaching also keeps him searching for the heart of life in the world's biggest city.

The essays Pronko published in his book ‘Beauty and Chaos: Slices and Morsels of Tokyo Life’ were originally published in Newsweek Japan in Japanese and then they were collected in a single book almost ten years ago. Two additional collections that were also made in Japanese followed – ‘The Other Side of English - An Anti-Grammar Manifesto’ and ‘Tokyo's Mystery Deepens’, both soon available in English, as well.

With ‘Beauty and Chaos’ the author managed to perfectly convey the spirit of this extraordinary Japanese city in a series of interesting, humorous and yet extremely educational essays. Or as Pronko says 'writing about Tokyo is like catching fish with a hollow gourd.'

Speaking about the subjects of his essays, the most of them made in several pages are different, some of them even unexpected with its topics. As a man raised somewhere else, Pronko manages to observe things not as noticeable to locals, but also overlooked by people that visit Tokyo. The author succeeds to take reader to the places one will not hear about in tourism ads, providing a different view of this unordinary megalopolis.

Therefore, if you plan to visit Tokyo for the first time or know someone else that soon will travel to the Far East, I recommend to surprise yourself or that person with the great book gift - except that coming home will be with a bit different memories, Tokyo will be experienced in much deeper and more personal way.

I was given a copy of this book by the author for the purpose of unbiased review, while all the presented information is based on my impressions.

[Sophie Cayeux · Rating 4 out of 5]

Enjoyable. Interesting to read before or after a travel to Japan. Review at http://www.snowbeachpublications.com/...
The book will definitely enhance one’s experience of Tokyo. I am a lover of Japan so this is why I picked this book to read. It is a series of short essays. What I find good about the book is that it doesn’t have to be read all at one time. One can pick up a topic of interest at random and enjoy the author’s essay about it. The prose is faultless, clear and easy to read. It offers a personal view but the author has a great insight into the life of that city and the behaviour of its inhabitants. It has opened my eyes to some aspects of that amazing city that I didn’t know. The next time I visit Japan, I will certainly observe what I’ve read about and not noticed before and this will definitely enhance the pleasure I derive from my trip. The Island Girl

[Nancy · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really liked this a lot. It took me a long time to finish because I only dipped into it when I had not much time to read. This book works well for those that want to just read a little at a time. Lots of good stopping places, though the material is so interesting it is hard to put down. These short essays are a wonderful look at a very different society. Michael Pronko does a terrific job of observing without strong prejudices for or against what he sees. A very good reporting job and a fascinating topic. I will definitely be looking for more by Mr Pronko.

[Karen · Rating 3 out of 5]

When you think of Tokyo, what images come to your mind? High rise office buildings? Flashy electronic gadgets? Kimono clad women? Cherry Blossom trees? You’re likely to see them all if you ever get a chance to visit the capital although as a tourist you won’t touch more than the surface of this city.

Journalist and university professor Michael Pronko has spent 15 years living and working in the city. The result is a collection of articles first published in Newsweek Japan and now published in English for the first time as Beauty and Chaos: Slices and Morsels of Tokyo Life. Through more than 40 pieces he delves beneath Tokyo’s mask, reflecting on the idiosyncracies of its inhabitants and their predilection for maps, drink vending machines, noodles and posh shopping bags.

Michael claims he’s not a Japan specialist nor is he very good at the language. Reading these articles however it’s clear that what he does have in abundance is an inquisitive mind and an ability to make the commonplace interesting and often funny. Through him we’re forced to re-evaluate objects and scenes that would otherwise escape our attention, from the narrowest alleyway to the slogans emblazoned on t shirts and the rituals that accompany the handling of money..

Trying to navigate his way to an unknown part of the city, for example, he’s mystified by little pink circles on his street map. Eventually he works out they mark the location of cherry trees in blossom.

It’s not the kind of thing that maps in the west would ever convey — the seasonal colour of trees. Yet. along streets, canals, streams and in parks are the maps indicting the probably rather exact position of cherry trees.

These symbols come to represent for him, not simply an example of the city’s obsession with detailed maps but a deeper desire of its inhabitants to escape, if only for a short time, “to turn away from the ordered angles of mapped-out, boxed-in lives to walk and sit by flowers with friends, colleagues and family.”

Perhaps its that same desire to escape controls and a regulated life (whee rules and guidelines, instructions and regulations are posted on every conceivable surface) that explains why residents happily toss out their rubbish into the narrow passageways between buildings.

In a city with the best-swept gutters in the world, where neighbours spend as much time netting their trash as reading the morning paper, those gaps are piled with tossed out crap. Broken household appliances waiting for recycle coupons, buckets and mops left over from osoji spring cleaning, unused kerosene containers, and ripped-out PVC piping ally amid some of the world’s toughest, most adaptive urban weeds.

Many of the articles in this collection point to the contradictory nature of Tokyo life. The same people who recklessly dump their unwanted goods meticulously follow a bookshop etiquette of choosing only the wrinkled copies of magazines and books to read while standing, carefully avoiding disturbing the pristine copies at the back which are for purchasers not browsers. The same people carefully choose bags in which to present gifts to friends and family, taking considerable care before leaving the house to find just the right bag, matching their bags to outfits and treating them as important an accessory as a necklace or scarf.

It would be fascinating to discover why this is a city of such contrary habits. but the closest Michael Pronko gets is to point to its elusive nature.

Tokyo is an imaginary construct and does not really exist in any single place or in any exact way. It’s a city whose hugeness refuses even metaphoric understanding. Tokyo slips through words like water through a net.

An intriguing collection that I enjoyed dipping into and will be sharing with some of my colleagues in Tokyo to get their reactions.

[Katie · Rating 5 out of 5]

I've been a bit down on short stories lately, so I was thrilled to find a short story collection in which I truly enjoyed every story. I loved the focus on the little details of life in Tokyo. By the time I finished the story, I felt as though I knew what life was like in Tokyo in a way that books about travel rarely manage. It also made me want to step back for a moment and appreciate the little details in my life. Even though I enjoyed all the stories, the following stories particularly stood out to me:

Automatic Tea Ceremony - the blending of the modern and traditional in this description of Tokyo's tea vending machines made me smile.

What's Your Bag - I love the idea of lending things in bags, thoughtfully chosen. The meaning invested in these bags and the enjoyment people get out of collecting them from stores made me want to adopt this tradition.

Waiting to Blossom - The inclusion of cherry trees on city maps discussed in this story seems delightfully whimsical.

Clothing That Shouts - T-shirt Words - Reading this section, I felt that the slogans people choose to wear on their clothes can say a lot about a culture. I'd to love see a similar analysis of writing on clothing around the world.

Bonsai Building - Although I don't think I'd want to live in one of the small, strangely shaped buildings that have sprung up in every spare space in Tokyo, this was another story where I enjoyed the whimsy of the idea. It reminded me a bit of hobbit holes.

Looking back over my favorite stories, I find that the correspond to the aspects of Tokyo that I liked the most. There things that made me happy, some of which I'd like to live with and others which I'd just like to see. All of the author's stories were well-written and thoughtful, so I suspect that like me, everyone will find some stories in this collection that cover little details that make them smile.This review was originally posted on Doing Dewey.

[Paul Franco · Rating 5 out of 5]

Here’s a book of essays on Tokyo, told by an American who’s lived there for a while now. It reads like blog entries, which is not necessarily a bad thing. It’s certainly better written than most blogs.
I’ve been to Japan a half dozen times, but never for more than a few days, certainly not long enough to gain the type of insights he has on the culture. His is an interesting point of view, a Westerner in Tokyo but someone who’s lived there for years, more than just a tourist, so he fills the inbetween.
There’s a whole chapter on how people hold themselves up on trains; he says women have better balance, even in heels, holding on to the straps with their fingers, while men use the whole palm. That’s the kind of close detail you can expect in this book. There’s also a piece on why Japanese women go even more overboard with pink than American women, yet the color is also used to attract men to sex stuff. And everything else is white, black, or grey. Hmmm. . .
This book is filled with interesting tidbits that most people, including the residents, wouldn’t notice. There’s a chapter on how ubiquitous maps are, which I certainly don’t remember from my trips to Tokyo, and I would have remembered, cuz I love maps. . . which is why I’m enjoying this anyway, vicariously. Another entry talks about shopping bags, including how they would save civilization in a major earthquake; that’s too silly even for Japan. But for someone who’s never been there, or only for a short time as a tourist, it gives a sense of wonder, almost like science-fiction, reading about a whole new world. And isn’t that what travel books are supposed to do?
4.5/5

[Bandit · Rating 3 out of 5]

Seasoned armchair traveler tries various destinations. Even ones they would probably not go to in real life. Or maybe especially those. Hence this selection. Pronko knows his subject having lived in Tokyo for great many years. He's a literature teacher and this book very much reads as such, it's very literary and very serious, the latter not my preference, I do prefer my travelogues humorous, but I digress. Pronko's essays are cinematically vivid and are very much of a sociophilosophical nature. He ponders every day things such as gift bags and escalators from a perspective of an intelligent observer/thinker. And so the results are sometimes dispassionately intellectual, which isn't to say the author is, since he obviously loves the culture and the city. I did enjoy learning more about Tokyo in an informing, edifying and reasonably entertaining (or nonfiction anyway) manner. I received this as an advance copy from netgalley, and while thanks are definitely in order, the book apparently due to copyrights was made very difficult to read since ever tt, f and ft were substitutes with symbols. You get used to it after a while, but it certainly detracted from the reading pleasure. This is my first time encountering a technique like that with advanced copies and I hope it doesn't become a popular practice. Arigato.

[Ishita · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ranked as the number 1 city of the world, Tokyo is a city that will always be fascinating for travelers and tourists; the quiet elegance and dignity of the nation with serene beauty forms quite a contradiction to the latest fashion fads and large, glowing advertisement boards. This is a brilliant book which takes the reader through a virtual journey. And, I think that is my favorite part of this book.

The book has been divided into 6 parts with 6-8 chapters in each section; each chapter has been given a captivating title which makes you want to read more and live the Tokyo life over and over again. Each chapter details out a small part from your daily life that people usually tend to overlook. They may seem like something odd to pick on, but somehow the author has managed to make a connection between the subject and the culture of the nation.

The language used in quite simple and yet descriptive enough to portray the image of Japanese way of life successfully and make the reading experience truly enjoyable. The cover image did come off a bit garish and loud before I requested for this book, however as you delve further into the book you are able to see the justification in using this certain image.

My opinion: I think I actually love this book. However, the book lacks a bit of visual impact which could have made it more delightful.

My rating: 4.5 out of 5

[Diane · Rating 5 out of 5]

Anyone with an interest in Tokyo will want to consider the fifteen years of experience that's gone into Michael Pronko's Beauty and Chaos, an essay collection that comes from a professor with much experience in the city, who can bring it to life through flowery written descriptions.

Just what is so special about Beauty and Chaos, and what sets it apart from your usual Japanese cultural observation or travelogue? Plenty! For one thing, many of the essays center on the ironies and inconsistencies of Tokyo. Readers thus gain a much clearer vision of the city's incongruities and attractions than your usual where-to-stay and what-to-see one-dimensional survey.

To truly know Tokyo and plan for a visit there, Beauty and Chaos should be right there at the top of the travel guides and trip planners. Without it, it would be all too easy to miss the city's unique attractions and unique cultural attributes - and that would be a shame.

Beauty and Chaos is a rare gem of exploration that holds the ability to sweep observer/readers into a series of vignettes that penetrate the heart of Tokyo's fast-paced world. Anyone planning a trip to the city (and many an armchair reader who holds a special affection for Japan) must have this in hand - and, in mind. Very highly recommended.

[Al · Rating 5 out of 5]

These essays were originally written in Japanese and published in Newsweek Japan for a Japanese audience. Describing these as “travel essays” would probably seem strange to that original audience, yet once the author translates them to his native English for a non-Japanese audience, this label fits. As with any good travel writing, Beauty and Chaos explores what is different about or makes a particular place unique. Many of these essays look at something the author has noticed, often with his theory as to why Tokyo has this particular idiosyncrasy, that while sometimes obscure (indicating where blossoming cherry trees might be found at the right time of year on otherwise typical maps), says something about the city and its culture.

What stood out for me when taking these essays as a whole is not just how unique Tokyo is when compared to other cities, but how different Tokyo is from itself. I’m thinking specifically of the contrasts and sometimes contradictory faces of the city, which is captured perfectly in the title, Beauty and Chaos. An entertaining and insightful read that I enjoyed much more than I anticipated.

**Originally written for "Books and Pals" book blog. May have received a free review copy. **

[Nicki · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a series of essays offing small insights and observations about the Japanese way of life from a gaijin living and working in Japan.
I have visited twice, so a lot of this was familiar, while other parts wouldn't have occurred to me at all. For example, presentation - it was obvious that shops give a lot of attention to wrapping and bags for purchase. I had no idea about people having drawers of them for different occasions at home. Very different to here in Australia where many retailers don't even offer a bag!
This book offers many small observations and sheds light on behaviours which aren't immediately obvious to someone who is just on holiday. I found it extremely interesting.
The only thing that would improve this book is if it also included photos to go with the essays. However, I read an arc
I downloaded from netgalley, so perhaps the actual release does.
Thank you so much for the chance to read this. I really enjoyed it and would recommend it to anyone with an interest in Japan.

[Absurd Book Nerd · Rating 4 out of 5]

I found Michael Pronko's collection of short stories about his time in Japan fascinating. It reminded me of the stories I heard from my brother-in-law from the year he spent in Japan studying and teaching English. I loved the focus on the little details of life in Tokyo and felt it gave me a feel for Toyko that normal travelogues don't come close to conveying. I think anyone who is interested in travel or Japanese culture would like this book.
I received this book for free from ARC in exchange for an honest review. This does not affect my opinion of the book or the content of my review.

[Rhonda Lomazow · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a fascinating group of essays by an American who has lived&taught there for 15 years.each essay is a little snap shot of Tokyo from ramen houses his favorite food to all the steps in the city which can be dangerous.His essay on observing people on the train reading rather then playing with their cell phones surprised him.This is a real glimpse into the city&its people.

[Maire · Rating 4 out of 5]

A collection of essays pointing out the sometimes missed, misunderstood, or just plain unique about Tokyo. If you've never been, this gives a nice taste of the local flavor. If you have been, this is a nice reminder of what makes this city so great.

[Texas · Rating 4 out of 5]

The Detective Hiroshi Series:
Sources: AuthorsXP dot com or ARCs from author. All the books are a bit wordy but still worth reading.

The Last Train, #1 - Interesting. Immersing. Intense. A good blend of Eastern and Western cultures with well written story lines, a gamut of characters, ranging from likeable to deviant. The vigilante is a hero in my opinion and accomplished more than simple revenge. The detective did the right thing, twice, in the end. 5*

The Moving Blade, #2 - Interesting and immersing with a bit of American - Japanese history. The hierarchy of crime amongst Asians is interesting. 4*

Tokyo Traffic, #3 - Still interesting and immersing with a good pace and interesting story lines. What is good about these books is that the past novels are not brought into the present novels. 4*

Tokyo Zangyo, #4 - Interesting reading about the Japanese work culture, which I knew about for decades but Mr. Pronko describes parts that are unknown, either through the changes of time or just hidden from outsiders. The blending of English and Japanese is one of the best translation methods I have read. 4*

Azabu Getaway, #5 - Interesting and intriguing story lines with likeable characters blended with the Japanese language and culture. Detective Hiroshi and his fellow police officers, again, fight against the dark side of Japanese life, its criminal activities. 4*
The Detective Hiroshi Series end.

Memoirs on Tokyo Life: Source: ARCs from author.

Beauty and Chaos: Slices and Morsels of Tokyo Life, #1 - Read this after the Hiroshi series so the writing style varies. Interesting snippets into Toyko and her people and their culture seen through the author's eyes. 4*

Tokyo’s Mystery Deepens: Essays on Tokyo, #2 - Interesting short stories. 4*

Motions and Moments: More Essays on Tokyo, #3 - I am saturated with Japan, her people and her culture. The sites, the sights and the complexities of Tokyo should not be read continuously but savored with one or two bits at a time. I promised the author to finish in a week all his books not understanding the world I was immersing myself in, it was too much, but still very interesting, and I am not ignorant about Japanese history and culture, although, not current. It was like my two week vacation in Utah and Colorado. By the time I arrived near Four Corners, I had enough of the beauty of those two States that I was not interested in seeing that ditch known as The Grand Canyon and turned left instead of right. 4*
Memoirs on Tokyo Life end.

[Luke · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm a bit of a fan of Japan. I've learned some [terrible] Japanese, and have travelled there several times, for holidays and for music competitions. I like the contradictions of the place, and am always looking for an excuse to journey back. This, Michael Pronko's first collection of essays on Tokyo, offers a pretty good trip.



Pronko is an academic who has lived in Japan for a number of years, teaching American literature, music, art and film at Meiji Gakuin University. He is a Tokyoite now, and a thoughtful one. This gathering of essays isn't hugely profound: it doesn't attempt to address politics, or argue for or against the place of the city in the world. But that's not to say they're not valuable. Through examining the prosaic, the author presents things one would pass by without comment, shining a different light on them.

It's a delightfully everyday take on a city that often seems too large to scale down to manageable size: here we find explanations of the simple joy of drink vending machines (hello, BOSS COFFEE!), the elegant semaphore of signage, and the ease with which Tokyo denizens can experience freedom in the midst of millions.

After all, Tokyo is overwhelming. It's the sort of place that dazzles and fills up your senses. It's busy, and confusing and exciting. Tourists have their minds blown and residents compartmentalise to survive. But both find solace in moments of small focus, and these are what Pronko writes about. As he suggests,

I do not think my essays will transform anyone’s deepest beliefs about Tokyo, but I hope they will defamiliarize what is close but commonly overlooked. I hope readers can see, together with me, the extraordinary in the ordinary.

That's a good enough goal: to get people to look again, and to perhaps consider such things as the Hachiko crossing and rush hour from a slightly different angle. There's always something new to be found, from the delights of a stolen moment to the pleasures of a visit to Don Quixote's metropolitan microcosm.

These essays are moreish. I want to read the next volume of Pronko's thoughts, for the escape to Tokyo they offer. Maybe I should check airfares...

[Patrick McCoy · Rating 4 out of 5]

I've been meaning to read some of Michael Pronko's writing since I know him personally (as he once edited a journal article I wrote for a publication and we both teach at Japanese universities and are passionate about reading and writing). I thought these essay about Tokyo, Beauty and Chaos: Slices and Morsels of Tokyo Life would be a good place to start (But I also plan to read his detective Hiroshi novels as well as some point). There are some interesting observations in this diverse collection of short essays about different aspects of Tokyo living. To be honest one of my biggest reactions to these essay occurred when I contemplated how I would go about describing or discussing some of the topics while reading about them. I wonder how much someone who doesn't live in Tokyo would get out of the essays. They are about a very specific place and culture, one that I, too, find thought-provoking and fascinating. I guess we all have our own feelings and impressions of experiences that can be useful to compare and contrast.

[Chris C · Rating 3 out of 5]

Earlier essays were quite good while the latter ones tended to be much more ephemeral and loose. Still a great introduction to Japan.

[Michel · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great read for anyone wishing to experience Tokyo vicariously from where ever in the world they may be.

[AC]

Interesting — not compelling brilliant

[Mark T · Rating 3 out of 5]

Thoughtful. At parts interesting.

[Sreader · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fun, interesting snippets about life in Tokyo.

[Chris Bull · Rating 2 out of 5]

Very Wordy

As a journalist the author must be used to being payed by the word. The essays are verbose. There are few nice turns of phrase here and there. Bye and large the writing I found padded.