At the very southern tip of Chile there is a vast forgotten mountain waste, bounded by ice and evergreen forests. It is a place much less visited then the Himalayas. Here the author with a small party found a new challenge, one of the last to cross the Patagonian ice cap from the Pacific to the Argentine lakes.
Major Harold William "Bill" Tilman, CBE, DSO, MC and Bar, was an English mountaineer and explorer, renowned for his Himalayan climbs and sailing voyages.
This book is the first of Tilman's "Mischief" books, named for his boat. Built in 1906, originally a Bristol Channel pilot cutter, 45 ft in length. In 1927 she had ended her working life and was converted to a yacht. In 1954, some 9 owners later, Tilman had her refitted and set to head to South America.
Combining his loves of mountaineering and sailing, he set out to sail to cross the Patagonian ice cap from the Pacific to the Argentine lakes (and return). Various attempts on the ice cap had been made from 1914 to 1954 (these are briefly outlined in an appendix), but none reportedly completely successful, this was challenge enough for Tilman.
Selecting (or rather finding) a crew for a dual challenge such as this is not easy, and those who will participate in both tasks were few. There did need to be a crew remain with the boat while the ice cap was dealt with was necessary, so there did not need to be a full crossover.
Tilman's writing is good. He doesn't shy away from the technical terms and jargon in either his sailing or climbing. This doesn't bother me too much as I happily gloss over the specifics and take in the wider description of the event, task or problem.
He talks little of history or background, concentrating on the events as they happen. The interactions with the crew, people in port etc are well described, and scenery where is occurs in this story is also well painted. Strange for now, but not for the time, to read about their environmental impact - unwanted gear went straight over the side, including at one point a drum of petrol in a pristine bay!
In my edition photographs were not included, which seems a shame. The maps were not very good - one of the southern third of South America, the other of Peel Inlet and the Calvo Glacier were not much help - no route plotting, and ultimately too small.
I own a series of Tilman's climbing books, which are earlier than his sailing books, and will no doubt work my way through those.
An enjoyable read with a reminder that it took place in the 50s when there was little regard with respect to the environment. Tilman decided that the Himalayas were becoming too commercialised, so he decided that it was easier just to sail to a quieter mountain and climb it! A word of warning. The author assumes that you are also a mountaineer and sailor and his descriptions include plenty of technical jargon, but don't let it put you off as it certainly gives you a feel for the conditions!
With a son and daughter in law about to embark on an adventure in Patagonia in a Kyak I was advised to give this a read. The book describes an adventure both in crossing oceans and climbing mountains. The way they dispose of unwanted gear leaves much to be desired, everything including a 48gall can of petrol gets heaved of the side of the boat. But this was the 1950's before we ruined the planet.
This is the first of Tilman's eight sailing \ climbing accounts. If you like reading about real voyaging before the age of commercialism, sponsorship and celebrity travel you'll enjoy this book and Tilman's dry humour.