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Three-quarters of a footprint: Travels in South India
For five months Joe Roberts was a guest of the Trivedi family in their flat in Bangalore's Baghpur Extension. Major Trivedi, a military Brahmin, was given to reciting quatrains of Nostradamus; Atul, his 18-year-old son, was more concerned with Guns n' Roses; while Mrs Trivedi, with her neighbour Mrs Sen, took charge of her visitor's plans for travelling around Southern India. Roberts journeyed to the jungle beyond Mysore - a jungle that, contrary to expectations, was only little trees and dappled glades; to the queen of the hill stations, Ootacamund, to which generations of English colonial officers had retreated, transforming an Indian plateau into a passable imitation of Bournemouth; and to Kovalam, which he visited in order to see the Kathakali dancers, but where he also found himself dining with an Australian pornographer. And he also travelled to Cochin, on the Malabar Coast, and shared a railway compartment with a drunken Bristolian who seemed unimpressed with everything but Indian moonshine. But Roberts always returned to the ground-floor flat in Baghpur Extension, and to his friends the Trivedis. This is his account of his travels.
- GenresTravelIndiaNonfiction
347 pages, Paperback
Published January 1, 1995
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June 18, 2025
I travelled with Mrs Trivedi from Madras to Bangalore overnight on the mail train. ‘First class this time so you are not overwhelmed. It was my second night in India and I was already overwhelmed.
So begins Joe Roberts’ trip to India. He is trying to make his way through the crowd at the station and is drenched in sweat and being stared at by almost everyone. She tells him he will get used to it…
Through a guy in Woking, he had arranged to stay with this family in Bangalore, in the Bhagpur extension. It was a mix of buildings with a mass of people moving around, trying to sell things to anyone they could. Couple that with the noise and smell, and he was overwhelmed once again. He is greeted by a small party that evening. He hadn’t really thought about the places that he wanted to visit while he was here, but a lady attending the gathering, called Mrs Sen, had other ideas. He soon had a month’s worth of excursions!
It takes him a while to get used to the intensity of the place. He visits temples, spends an afternoon with a strange visitor to the household and takes an uncomfortable and slightly terrifying bus journey to Bangalore. The monsoon rains kept taking out the power, and he could get no further because of the flooding.
Each journey takes longer because of delays and problems, and people just don’t understand why he wants to see this country. He takes a jungle trip to Mysore and ends up being the only guest in a hotel. It is a bit less jungly than he was expecting, but he does get to see some wildlife. River Lodge is a strange place, too, and he ends up staying with a true Burra Sahib called Colonel Bridgewater.
Back with the Trivedi’s again, they are joined by a illustrious guest called Dr Lal. He is a sericulturist who worked previously with the UN. He has several surreal conversations with the gentleman. Then he is off to Hospet and sadly catches a stomach bug that takes some time to recover from. When he is better, he travels on to the city of Vijayanagar.
Roberts is invited to give a talk at a school, so he prepares something for the boys. It is well received, but really only want to know his height, weight and what Alton Towers is actually like. Next place he ends up in is Otty, and he stays in a closed hotel with no water and some very dodgy food. He manages to relocate hotels before going off on a horse trek.
For his next trip, he is joined by Mrs Trivedi, and they head to the north of India to meet with her family. The slow train he takes gives him time to watch the landscape change from dry to wet. Sleeping on the train is a bit of a challenge. They stay at Mrs Trivedi’s father-in-law’s, and it gives him time to visit the area. He goes to Benares and finds that the overwhelming feeling he had in India is turned up to 11 here.
He settles into a pattern of having a few days with the Trivedi’s before setting off to explore other parts of the country. Until now, he hasn’t seen any Westerners in the country, but bumps into three in Mysore. They are there for a holiday, and they have a very different outlook from him.
He finds Bhadra feels very French, but it is still very much India. There are a load of nuns on the same bus as him, and he enjoys mixing with the locals and absorbing the atmosphere of the place. He chooses not to hire a guide, preferring to discover and experience the place for himself, though it is almost unbearably hot.
An unpleasant memory of Rameshwaram is the taxi drivers trying to rip him off as he is a Westerner. The low-level illness that he has had for a while finally breaks into a full fever. He heads back to the Trivedi’s to find them ill too! When recovered, he heads to Trivandrum and comes across a most arrogant and rude Englishman, who gets drunk and has no idea how to behave at all. He feels that he has reached the point where he has outstayed his welcome at the Trivedi’s and it is time to head home.
This is a really lovely travel book about Southern India. Roberts is a curious and gentle traveller. He is endlessly fascinated by the things that he sees and the people that he meets, and gets a fuller experience of the country by not having a set agenda, preferring to go with the flow. He is fortunate to have generous hosts. If you have read other travel books on India, I would still recommend adding this to your reading list. Eland has selected this to be included in their legendary travel classics and with good reason.
So begins Joe Roberts’ trip to India. He is trying to make his way through the crowd at the station and is drenched in sweat and being stared at by almost everyone. She tells him he will get used to it…
Through a guy in Woking, he had arranged to stay with this family in Bangalore, in the Bhagpur extension. It was a mix of buildings with a mass of people moving around, trying to sell things to anyone they could. Couple that with the noise and smell, and he was overwhelmed once again. He is greeted by a small party that evening. He hadn’t really thought about the places that he wanted to visit while he was here, but a lady attending the gathering, called Mrs Sen, had other ideas. He soon had a month’s worth of excursions!
It takes him a while to get used to the intensity of the place. He visits temples, spends an afternoon with a strange visitor to the household and takes an uncomfortable and slightly terrifying bus journey to Bangalore. The monsoon rains kept taking out the power, and he could get no further because of the flooding.
Each journey takes longer because of delays and problems, and people just don’t understand why he wants to see this country. He takes a jungle trip to Mysore and ends up being the only guest in a hotel. It is a bit less jungly than he was expecting, but he does get to see some wildlife. River Lodge is a strange place, too, and he ends up staying with a true Burra Sahib called Colonel Bridgewater.
Back with the Trivedi’s again, they are joined by a illustrious guest called Dr Lal. He is a sericulturist who worked previously with the UN. He has several surreal conversations with the gentleman. Then he is off to Hospet and sadly catches a stomach bug that takes some time to recover from. When he is better, he travels on to the city of Vijayanagar.
Roberts is invited to give a talk at a school, so he prepares something for the boys. It is well received, but really only want to know his height, weight and what Alton Towers is actually like. Next place he ends up in is Otty, and he stays in a closed hotel with no water and some very dodgy food. He manages to relocate hotels before going off on a horse trek.
For his next trip, he is joined by Mrs Trivedi, and they head to the north of India to meet with her family. The slow train he takes gives him time to watch the landscape change from dry to wet. Sleeping on the train is a bit of a challenge. They stay at Mrs Trivedi’s father-in-law’s, and it gives him time to visit the area. He goes to Benares and finds that the overwhelming feeling he had in India is turned up to 11 here.
He settles into a pattern of having a few days with the Trivedi’s before setting off to explore other parts of the country. Until now, he hasn’t seen any Westerners in the country, but bumps into three in Mysore. They are there for a holiday, and they have a very different outlook from him.
He finds Bhadra feels very French, but it is still very much India. There are a load of nuns on the same bus as him, and he enjoys mixing with the locals and absorbing the atmosphere of the place. He chooses not to hire a guide, preferring to discover and experience the place for himself, though it is almost unbearably hot.
An unpleasant memory of Rameshwaram is the taxi drivers trying to rip him off as he is a Westerner. The low-level illness that he has had for a while finally breaks into a full fever. He heads back to the Trivedi’s to find them ill too! When recovered, he heads to Trivandrum and comes across a most arrogant and rude Englishman, who gets drunk and has no idea how to behave at all. He feels that he has reached the point where he has outstayed his welcome at the Trivedi’s and it is time to head home.
This is a really lovely travel book about Southern India. Roberts is a curious and gentle traveller. He is endlessly fascinated by the things that he sees and the people that he meets, and gets a fuller experience of the country by not having a set agenda, preferring to go with the flow. He is fortunate to have generous hosts. If you have read other travel books on India, I would still recommend adding this to your reading list. Eland has selected this to be included in their legendary travel classics and with good reason.
February 9, 2017
This is a superbly written book about southern India. It describes the several months that the author spent based with a family in Bangalore in 1990. Joe Roberts views India realistically and sympathetically, and not without a sense of humour. He recounts his time spent with his host family brilliantly, conveying a great sense of what it is like living in an Indian home: its ups and downs. Roberts made many excursions from Bangalore to a variety of places in southern India, and one up north. He paints a vivid picture of each place, each of them being portrayed accurately and atmospherically. Encounters with strangers, both Indians and foreigners, are incitefully and often humourously related.
I am a regular visitor to southern India, and have been so since 1994. I feel that what Roberts wrote following his extended stay in 1990 resonates well with my experiences of the region over the past more than 20 years.
The end section of the book contains a number of informative and interesting notes on things to which he referred in his text. The 'articles' on the Jews of Cochin and the Syrian Christians were particularly good examples of these.
This is a wonderful travel book that should appeal to those who know southern India and alson those who do not. A great read.
I am a regular visitor to southern India, and have been so since 1994. I feel that what Roberts wrote following his extended stay in 1990 resonates well with my experiences of the region over the past more than 20 years.
The end section of the book contains a number of informative and interesting notes on things to which he referred in his text. The 'articles' on the Jews of Cochin and the Syrian Christians were particularly good examples of these.
This is a wonderful travel book that should appeal to those who know southern India and alson those who do not. A great read.
May 17, 2011
I picked this up from the British Library years ago and couldn't put it down! It's a wonderful travelogue of India - north and south. Humourous and funny descriptions of places and people, and some vivid incidents leave images etched in the reader's mind. I have never found this book again and would so love to! It was my introduction to the great literature of travel.
October 11, 2024
This book offers a richly textured glimpse into the vibrant cultures, landscapes and people of South India. The author’s evocative storytelling brings to life both the beauty and the contradictions of the region, weaving personal reflections with historical and cultural insights. Much of the deeper historical or mythical context is contained within the footnotes section at the back of the book, which I personally enjoyed as much as the main text.
What sets this book apart is the depth of observation and the author's ability to immerse the reader in the sensory experience of travel. The author spent much of his time staying with local families which sets his experience apart from most travel books where the author is just "passing through". From bustling cities to quiet rural landscapes, every scene is vividly painted, giving readers a real sense of place. The author also skillfully explores the diversity within South India, portraying its distinct languages, cuisines, religious practices and customs in a way that is both informative and engaging.
The narrative pace is deliberate, giving the reader time to digest each location and encounter, which may appeal to readers who prefer a more reflective travelogue. However, those looking for a fast-paced adventure might find the introspective tone a bit slow at times.
Another strength of the book is its thoughtful engagement with the challenges faced by the region, including social inequalities, environmental concerns and the tensions between tradition and modernity. The author doesn’t shy away from these complex issues but addresses them with nuance and sensitivity.
Overall, Three-quarters of a Footprint is an enriching read for anyone interested in South India or in travel writing that goes beyond surface-level observations.
What sets this book apart is the depth of observation and the author's ability to immerse the reader in the sensory experience of travel. The author spent much of his time staying with local families which sets his experience apart from most travel books where the author is just "passing through". From bustling cities to quiet rural landscapes, every scene is vividly painted, giving readers a real sense of place. The author also skillfully explores the diversity within South India, portraying its distinct languages, cuisines, religious practices and customs in a way that is both informative and engaging.
The narrative pace is deliberate, giving the reader time to digest each location and encounter, which may appeal to readers who prefer a more reflective travelogue. However, those looking for a fast-paced adventure might find the introspective tone a bit slow at times.
Another strength of the book is its thoughtful engagement with the challenges faced by the region, including social inequalities, environmental concerns and the tensions between tradition and modernity. The author doesn’t shy away from these complex issues but addresses them with nuance and sensitivity.
Overall, Three-quarters of a Footprint is an enriching read for anyone interested in South India or in travel writing that goes beyond surface-level observations.
August 9, 2019
Three Quarters Of A Footprint is a travelogue which gives a lively and colourful picture of India from the perspective of Joe Roberts, who is from England and visited India in 1990. The author Joe Roberts stayed with an Indian family in Bangalore for five months and travelled around India. He has provided realistic views about India via his travel experiences and interactions. Although lot of things have changed in India after 1990, few things remain same, and that's what makes this book relatable and interesting. During his stay in India, Joe visited places like Halebidu, Belur, Mysore, Vijayanagara, Hampi, Hospet, Ooty, Madurai, Pondicherry, Mahabalipuram, Chennai, Kovalam, Quilon (Kollam), Allepey, Kottayam, Ernakulam in the South India and Jabalpur, Khajuraho, Benares (Varanasi), Sarnath in the North India. An interesting read and the notes at the end of the book are quite informative too.
April 3, 2020
Good read if you’re nostalgic of southern India in the beginning of the nineties (from a perspective of a foreigner ). The style of the book is in the form of travelogue cum journal so it’s more suited for casual reading . The author also had a easy writing style which makes us care of the little characters knowing we won’t be revisiting them in our journey.
February 5, 2021
A charming and amusing account of the author's four months' travels around south India in the early 1990s
September 1, 2015
Three Quarters of a Footprint was first published by Bantam Press in 1994. Joe Roberts visited India, more specifically South India for the first time around 1990 and this book is the result of the wonderful experience he had.
Joe Roberts stayed with an Indian family 'The Trivedis' in Bangalore for five months and travelled around. This book is a travelogue Cum novel. As a 20 something I don't recognise the India Joe has written about, but then there are few things that remained the same. Joe travelled madras, Bangalore, Mysore, Benaras, Ooty, Madhya Pradesh, Kerala, etc,. Where ever he travelled he made friends and exchanged knowledge.
Three Quarters Of A Footprint is a travelogue from the eyes of a foreigner,the struggles he goes through, the difference he finds between the cultures and food.
I realized few things after reading this book.
~Travelling is much easier now.
~Foreigners are cheated at every level because they know nothing about the local pricing.
Joe Roberts stayed with an Indian family 'The Trivedis' in Bangalore for five months and travelled around. This book is a travelogue Cum novel. As a 20 something I don't recognise the India Joe has written about, but then there are few things that remained the same. Joe travelled madras, Bangalore, Mysore, Benaras, Ooty, Madhya Pradesh, Kerala, etc,. Where ever he travelled he made friends and exchanged knowledge.
Three Quarters Of A Footprint is a travelogue from the eyes of a foreigner,the struggles he goes through, the difference he finds between the cultures and food.
I realized few things after reading this book.
~Travelling is much easier now.
~Foreigners are cheated at every level because they know nothing about the local pricing.
November 2, 2014
With cover promotions from Eric Newby, Norman Lewis, Geoffrey Moorhouse and Ranulph Fiennes, I guess this was built up too much, and my expectations were too high.
But hey, it was ok, a quick and easy read, it covers a lot of ground - mostly Southern India, but a bit up north too. Roberts is a strange guy though. Almost all his travel in India was pre-planned - hotel bookings, train timetables etc... the few spontaneous decisions were highlighted as such - not the most intrepid of travellers.
But hey, it was ok, a quick and easy read, it covers a lot of ground - mostly Southern India, but a bit up north too. Roberts is a strange guy though. Almost all his travel in India was pre-planned - hotel bookings, train timetables etc... the few spontaneous decisions were highlighted as such - not the most intrepid of travellers.
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December 4, 2018Unbiased attitude (mostly, except about Hindi Film Music) and gentle humour in the writing from start to finish makes this an easily readable book. Looking forward to reading more of his books.
Displaying 1 - 10 of 10 reviews