New Orleans: The Underground Guide

by Michael Patrick Welch, Zack Smith (Photographer), Jonathan Traviesa (Photographer)

Red beans and rice, trad jazz, and second lines are the Big Easy's calling cards, but beyond where the carriage rides take you is a city brimming with genre-defying music, transnational cuisine, and pockets of wild, artistic locals that challenge preconceived notions of what it means to be New Orleans.
With a respectful nod to the traditional and a full embrace of the obscure, New The Underground Guide is a resource for discovering the city as it really is -- as much brass bands and boas as it is bounce and bicycle tours. From a speakeasy in the Bywater neighborhood to the delightfully sketchy vibe of St. Roch Tavern, lead author Michael Patrick Welch uncovers an unexpected tableau of musicians, venues, and novel ways to pass the bon temps.
Contents include but are not limited where to get naked, how to make the most of Mardi Gras according to banjo player Geoff Douville, what to order from the delicious Slavic menu at Siberia, where to find the New Orleans Giant Puppet Festival, how to catch a performance by the New Movement comedy troupe, where to rent a kayak, and how to get in on the "bed and beverage" experience at the Royal Street Inn.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction

264 pages, Paperback

First published April 16, 2010

Reviews

[Oriana · Rating 4 out of 5]

It seems completely impossible that I have never been to New Orleans, but somehow it's true. But! I am about to finally rectify that in just a few weeks. OMG OMG OMG OMG

This is a really fun guide. It's heavy on the music scene, but it also does an expansive job with drag shows and foodstuffs and record shops and whatnot. We did a lot based on rec's from here, but like any really successful exploration of a new place, we used this as a jumping-off point and did our best to meet people along the way and stuff our brains with their combined knowledge too.

But I love that this book exists. We heard some questionable things about the author but you can tell he did this with so so so much love, sharing so many of the wild people, delirious places, and crazy things that make NOLA such a bonkersly unique town.

[Lauren · Rating 3 out of 5]

A more interesting read that previous travel guides that I’ve gone through. I don’t think the stuff in here is my cup of tea but I wouldn’t have known without going through this book. I am glad that I read it because I can now suggest it to friends who would be more into the stuff.

[A. · Rating 3 out of 5]

Gave great info on New Orleans

[Lisa · Rating 4 out of 5]

I loved this book. I found so much good information in it, so many recommendations, especially for music. I went through every single band referenced in the book and listened to their stuff, these are my favorites:

Norco Lapalco (Christmas Island Crabs, Power Boulevard)
Theresa Andersson (Birds Fly Away, Mary Don't You Weep)
Deadboy And The Elephantmen - Stop I'm Already Dead
My Graveyard Jaw - "Hold On"
Morning 40 Federation - God Help Me
Gungor - Dry Bones (the only piece of Christian music I've ever liked)
everything by the Valparaiso Mens Chorus
The Happy Talk Band- Forget me Not
Gogol Bordello
Brass-a-Holics - A Good Night
Bonerama- Mr. Go
Steve Eck and the Midnight Still - Drag It Out
The Essentials
Earphunk - Saura
Bantam Foxes - (You'll Regret This) Sooner or Later
Carbon Poppies- Gone
Johnny Sansone - The Lord Is Waiting The Devil Is Too
The Soul Rebels- Sweet Dreams
Hurray for the Riff Raff - The Body Electric

I'm in NYC. At 5am when the bars are closed and the party has moved onto to a crowded loft bed in a strangers apartment, I find myself yelling that "I need some brass!". Thanks Mister Welch.

[Robin B · Rating 5 out of 5]

An informative, useful and hip guide to one of the most fascinating cities in the world. It's like having a local on your shoulder telling you about places in the city you might not otherwise know about.

[The Advocate]

"I learned a few new things including the word 'feauxbeaux,' and that I have missed three New Orleans Daiquiri Festivals and I need to get to it this August."
Read more here.

[tony · Rating 4 out of 5]

Good place to start

Very accurate guide to good stuff. Only critique is it could use a few updates, and more details about specific neighborhoods would be nice, otherwise if you follow the breadcrumbs in this guide you'll discover new things on the path.

[Curtis]

I'll rate it in 4 weeks

[Candice · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great tour guide of New Orleans off the beaten track. Indispensable for the likes of me.

[Nina Mcdaniel · Rating 5 out of 5]

buy this book buy this book buy this book!!

[starr · Rating 5 out of 5]

Was glued to this for my solo NOLA trip last week - it was perfect and spot-on!!