Hidden Tuscany: Discovering Art, Culture, and Memories in a Well-Known Region's Unknown Places

by John Keahey

In Hidden Tuscany, acclaimed author John Keahey takes the reader into a part of Tuscany beyond the usual tourist destinations of Chianti, Florence, and Siena. The often overlooked western portion of Tuscany is rich with history, cuisine, and scenery begging to be explored, and Keahey encourages travelers to abandon itineraries and let the grooves in the road and the curves of the coast guide your journey instead.

Follow Keahey as he turns off the autostrada and takes roads barely two lanes wide to discover fishing villages along the Tuscan sea. Then move inland into rolling foothills adorned with cherry orchards, ancient olive groves, and sweeping vineyards that produce wines that challenge Chianti's best. Here it is still possible to follow the paths of Romans, Crusaders, and pilgrims from throughout the western world who were eager to reach Rome.

Hidden Tuscany provides intriguing images of places such as Livorno, a port city with canals; Pietrasanta, Tuscany's Citta d'Arte; and Capraia, an island formed by volcanoes. Keahey engages with the inhabitants of these enchanting landscapes, whether sculptors who toil in marble studios or residents whose own memories and traditions illuminate major moments in world history.

From coastal towns to vineyards farther inland to the Tuscan archipelago, Keahey reminds us that each village, city, and island has its own unique story to tell. For armchair travelers and vacation seekers alike, Hidden Tuscany brings a new side of this classic Italian region to life, and the result is mesmerizing.

Genres: Travel, Italy, Nonfiction, Adventure

296 pages, Hardcover

First published June 10, 2014

Reviews

[Hon Lady Selene · Rating 4 out of 5]

*insert all the swear words in the history of the universe here + some of my own invention* over that Sant'Anna di Stazzema chapter that I knew nothing about until this book.

[Greg · Rating 3 out of 5]

I received this book as a Goodreads First Reads giveway. Having just visited Italy a couple of years ago, many of the places I visited were still fresh in my mind. Italy, and Tuscany in particular, leaves you wanting to see more. The history and culture is so rich, and there are so many things to see and do, that to be a tourist there is to hit the highlights. Keahey’s objective in this book is to talk about the other things that the tourist knows they are missing, but just can’t fit into the vacation.

In general, the book, because of the subject, is an interesting travel book. Written from the perspective of Keahey himself, it is structured almost like his musings he is writing down to include in the book he is going to write, rather than the book itself. It is a bit stream of consciousness as a result, and the overall organization of the book is confusing at times.

Within that structure, however, are many interesting anecdotes and important historical information. His exploration of the marble quarries is interesting, and the remaining sculpture industry in the surrounding environs. Of particular interest is the extraordinarily well-covered atrocities of the war years, specifically that of Sant’Anna. “Sant’Anna is not listed on my official map of Tuscany, not even on the more detailed, spiral-bound Italian Travel Club map; to my surprise, it is not even mentioned in several major guidebooks. Several histories of the war in Italy do not mention Sant’Anna or Monte Sole.” (125) “Those documents from what has become known as the armadio della vergogna, or ‘closet of shame,’ revealed the names of several men who participated in the events in Sant’Anna.” (133) The men were not extradited from Germany, and no one has ever really been punished for the crimes. Keahey treats this section with great sensitivity, and first hand accounts, of the people affected by the brutal policies of Nazi Germany in this section of Italy.

Occasionally there are expected anecdotes, such as this one in Pisa. “My goal in Pisa—to make discoveries that are off the usual tourist grid—is being met. I found surprises, like the St. Anne statue and the wooden cross. The only church I visited that was mentioned in the one Tuscan guidebook on my shelf is San Stefano. Still, this book, one of the more prominent ones, misses the origin of the pennants hanging there, saying that they had been taken from Muslim pirates off the coast of North Africa. The guidebook had no idea that the banners were from the battle of Lepanto in the Adriatic Sea—one of history’s most decisive moments.” (164) These little snippets occur sporadically through the book, and are interesting.

Overall, if you are going to Tuscany or love the region, you will probably enjoy this book and its inspiration to live and experience Tuscany, rather than to just visit and take pictures.

[Barbara Switzer · Rating 4 out of 5]

John Keahey writes well. His appreciative descriptions of Tuscany's small villages in out of the way places makes me want to go back and take time to explore. He purposefully goes, as he says, "far from the madding crowd". Even though he eventually visits Pisa he wanders into the center of town away from the crush of tourists to discover small churches containing beautiful art. He weaves history into conversations with villagers and always takes time to stop, sip a caffe, and enjoy the people and the scenery. It was a great read.

[Coleen Dailey · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a great read. I would love to be able to do what this author did - take six months and just immerse yourself in a region you wanted to get to know better. While my dream trip to Tuscany would include parts of Eastern Tuscany and the high tourist areas like Florence and such, it is because I have never been there. Spending the day exploring history, art, culture, eating the local cuisine is my idea of a great trip. I do hope to get there some day and maybe I will get to some of these places.

[Cindy K · Rating 3 out of 5]

Lots of detail on that subregions history which is facinating, but slow reading. Would like to take out again, venture furthur into the book. It might be one to read a chapter at a time, returning to every half year.

[Virginia Thompson · Rating 5 out of 5]

New areas to discover

This was a wonderful book to read. The author takes you through places that the tourists never see. The food, the culture the people are beautiful drawn. What a pleasure it was to read.

[Autumn · Rating 3 out of 5]

Slow going but maybe some good tips for our trip.

[Carmen · Rating 4 out of 5]

A personal account of a man on a trip to explore all the back villages in Tuscany.

[Susan · Rating 3 out of 5]

I loved reading about the off the beaten path places in Tuscany but I found his writing style to be tedious.

[Kathy Cohen · Rating 3 out of 5]

I received this book free as a review copy. I was delighted to discover that this book describes an area of Tuscany around Camaiore where I spent a week a few years ago. At that time I rushed through all the touristy sites, Florence, Pisa, Lucca, etc. This author spent almost six months in the area, leisurely exploring the non-tourist mobbed sites (lucky him!). Not a travel guidebook, not a travelogue, but this book is an in-depth discovery of the immensely interesting Tuscan region. The author includes not only recent history such as the heart wrenching revelation of the WWII massacre of hundreds of old men, women, and children in the area, but also fascinating discussions of the Etruscans, medieval and Renaissance events,architecture, and the marble quarries. He visits local sculptors and artists, and even includes some recipes. In short, the author did what we would all wish we could do--get off the highway, drive the blue roads, and get lost in our favorite place.

[Katie · Rating 3 out of 5]

John Keahey sets out across western Tuscany eating pasta, drinking caffé, and enjoying cornetto after cornetto. The pace of the book is slow, but it felt appropriate. Keahey drives across Tuscany, weaving through villages and dutifully avoiding the autoroutes. He describes landscapes, food, and includes historical anecdotes related to the locations. I liked the book and felt a familiar joyful feeling related to traveling and Italy while reading. But I will not remember much of this book in 3 months, because it isn't very notable. I will remember 2 things, however. I will remember everything the book taught me about the horrific Sant'Anna massacre and I will remember that brief but heart-wrenching moment when Keahey writes about his oldest son in the Afterword. Both tales are tragic and held my total interest while reading about them.

[Paul · Rating 2 out of 5]

I thought I would love this book but honestly it was thoroughly disappointing. The book is poorly organized and follows no real narrative. At best it feels like going over to your uncles house and watching his slide show of abstract photos and history lessons. He saw beautiful places but you are really just wondering how long it is going to drone on. Keahny shows in the afterword that he is capable of strong, emotive writing, unfortunately for the reader this is the only place he employs it.

If you are traveling to or through this region you may find the book helpful but for others there are far more interesting and better written travel memoirs.

[Georgene · Rating 3 out of 5]

My copy was a large print addition which had 395 pg.

I found this book hard to get through. I've read a number of books on Tuscany by Francis Mayes. Her books make you feel the cobblestones beneath your feet as you "walk" along with her in her travels. This book, while covering a different area of Tuscany than Mayes has, was a grind to get through. Nonetheless, there were interesting parts in it that had me fascinated.

[Janet · Rating 3 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book - very informative about the Italy most do not see - the western coast of Tuscany - all the little towns and villages. So much history in that area that is mostly visited by Europeans - not Americans so much. Told of a lot of Etruscan sites, and history. Makes you want to be more adventurous in your travels - far from the maddening crowd!!

[Julie · Rating 3 out of 5]

Part travelogue, part historical brochure, great information about what one might find off the beaten path in Tuscany. Tons of minutia about art, sculpture, and food. I may pick this one up again when my Italian improves and I'm ready to go way off the grid in that wonderful corner of the world.

[Sarah Farr · Rating 4 out of 5]

A must read for anyone planning an "off the beaten path" trip to Tuscany. The history was interesting, also.

[Janette Mcmahon · Rating 3 out of 5]

I simply must go. Not a travelogue in the traditional sense, but a wonderful book to armchair travel to Tuscany.

[Wendy · Rating 2 out of 5]

Tuscany sounds wonderful, despite the Herman occupation. How ever, the prose left me Kalt und tod mude.

[Teresa Bochenek · Rating 4 out of 5]

I love Italy and the more Tuscany so I 've read it with interest. Much details about cities, countries and etc...