An Armchair Traveller's History of Istanbul: City of Forgetting and Remembering

by Richard Tillinghast

The great crossroads, Istanbul has absorbed several millennia of different influences; it is both modern and ancient, fluid and constant. Standing at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, Istanbul is a tapestry of the different cultures and ideas that have shaped it over time. It has seen merchants, travelers, different religions, and politics all stamp their mark. Richard Tillinghast has watched the city evolve and he beautifully evokes its many distinct neighborhoods.Richard Tillinghast is the author of "Finding A Poet's Explorations of Irish Literature and Culture" (2009).

Genres: Nonfiction, Travel

483 pages, Hardcover

First published July 17, 2012

Reviews

[Yusuf · Rating 3 out of 5]

Özellikle Bizans ve Fatih kısımlarına kadar iyiydi. Ama sonra pek ritim tutmadı. Bir noktada vazgeçtim.

[Ivan · Rating 4 out of 5]

FIRST LINE REVIEW: "Anyone who knows Istanbul will tell you that the best way to arrive in the Queen of Cities is by sea." Well, I won't be arriving that way (sadly) but this excellently written travelogue/history has prepared me very well to experience the richly varied dimensions of this ancient city that has now become one of the most significant in the world. Tillinghast helped me smell the streets, taste the food, appreciate the art and understand the history of this exciting place. Time to start packing my bags and go visit the Queen!

[Pita Gabby · Rating 4 out of 5]

Tillinghast, with his self-proclaimed status as an "old Istanbul hand," weaves a captivating narrative. The book's strength lies in its ability to bridge the gap between a dry historical account and a mere travelogue.

Tillinghast takes the reader on a historical adventure, starting with the Byzantine era, moving through the Ottoman period, and culminating in modern Istanbul. This approach provides a clear understanding of the city's evolution and the influences that have shaped its present character. While iconic landmarks like Hagia Sophia and the Suleymaniye Mosque are discussed, Tillinghast doesn't simply describe them. He encourages the reader to envision the bustling streets, aromatic cafes, and vibrant life that surrounds these architectural marvels.

Tillinghast's prose is engaging and evocative. He incorporates quotes from historical figures and travelers, transporting the reader back in time and creating a sense of place. Having spent decades visiting Istanbul, Tillinghast offers insights that go beyond the typical tourist guidebook. He sheds light on the city's undercurrents, the subtle changes witnessed over time, and the lingering echoes of its fascinating past.

Overall, "An Armchair Traveller's History of Istanbul" is a delightful read for anyone with a curious mind and a passion for history and travel. Tillinghast serves as a knowledgeable and engaging guide, transporting readers to the heart of this captivating city and its many layers of history. Whether you're an armchair traveler or a potential visitor, this book will leave you wanting to explore the magic of Istanbul further.

[Daniel · Rating 5 out of 5]

Tillinghast clearly loves Istanbul, it's obvious from the first few pages. I'd never heard of this book before and I'm so glad I found it on the library shelf. It's very enjoyable to read, and is filled with lots of interesting details and insights I hadn't known before.

As someone who has spent a lot of time there, I had lots of 'aha' moments as I learnt about places I've seen plenty of times and just walked past without knowing the details of their histories.

If you love Istanbul or just have a passing interest, this is one of the best reads that gives you a pretty in depth understanding of the city, taking you chronologically through key sites and neighbourhoods.

[Cem · Rating 5 out of 5]

Cok emek harcanmis, nitelikli bir eser. Yazar, Istanbul ile hemhal olmus. Istanbul'un tarihini, kulturunu ve ozellikle de tarihi eserlerini detayli bir sekilde ele almis. Eserlerin sanatsal olarak ele alindigi kisimlari takip etmek yetersiz sanat bilgisi olan biri icin zor olabilir. Okuduktan sonra Istanbul hakkindaki kanaatiniz olumlu yonde degisecektir, eminim. Keske sehir cok kulturlu yapisini surdurebilseymis...

[Dilek · Rating 2 out of 5]

Amerikalı gezgin bir yazarın gözüyle İstanbul sokaklarında geziyorsunuz. Verdiği tarihi bilgilerin tarafsızlığını takdir ettim, ayrıca Bizans İmparatorluğu hakkında da güzel bilgiler vermiş. Fakat Cumhuriyet Dönemi'ni iyi anlatamadığını düşünüyorum. Bolca Orhan Pamuk ve Elif Şafak örnekleri vermesi de Türk edebiyatının zenginliğinin aslında hiç tanıtılamadığını gösteriyor.

Bence okunacak daha güzel gezi ve tarih kitabı varken bu kitap biraz zayıf kalmış.

[John · Rating 4 out of 5]

For those interested in the history of Istanbul, this is an excellent book. What sets it apart is that it moves back and forth between modern Istanbul and historic Istanbul. It is a travel book while also being a book about the history. This, in my opinion, provides context and makes for a better read than the dry textbook histories.

[Zekiozdogan · Rating 5 out of 5]

Very descriptive,a must read for istanbullites

[Jeffrey · Rating 4 out of 5]

One of the best things about this book is Tillinghast's powerful writing. Filled with his personality, it comes alive on the page. A reader will genuinely feel his erudite and opinionated presence, and this is for the good. A good example is he doesn't just recommend the famous restaurant Çiya in Kadıköy, but also mentions the Kanaat Lokata in Uskudar, which has a vast variety of offerings every foodie should experience (here Richard and I agree their Üzbek pilaf is exceptional). Needless to say he speaks about numerous other restaurant he's taken a shine to in various parts of the city, and I suggest you follow his recommendations.
He has other wonderful recommendations such Rustem Pasha Mosque, which is hidden in plain sight in Eminönü. Because it's located where a dizzying amount of traffic passes by, and a person has to go up a flight of stairs to reach it, is often ignored in favor of grander mosques. Yet its light and Iznik tiles are a wonder to behold. Not far from Sultanahmet but seeming a world away is the amazing Sokullu Mehmet Paşa mosque, another of Tillinghast's recommendations.
I thought I knew a fair amount about Byzantine art and architecture, but I learned a great deal in this volume about the Byzantine churches and mosaics in Sicily and Southern Italy, and their relationship to Byzantine work in places like Aya Sophia and the Kariye Mosque. He also has an excellent section on the great Ottoman architect and builder Sinan.
If you want a more complete history of some particular epoch in Istanbul, there are numerous books that are more thorough and detailed in their overage. That's not the purpose of this work. Istanbul: City of Forgetting and Remembering is here to offer the newcomer a bit of insider's knowledge about the city; the places an expatriate might go.
Turkey is going through a difficult time at present with high inflation and political repression. A variety of refugees and expatriates have landed on its shores, causing a dangerous backlash politically. I confess this volume, written around 2009 or 2010, captures the political freedom and economic success that existed at time, dynamic, joyous years when I was living and working in Istanbul. Reading this reminded me of how so many of us expatriates felt just a little more than 10 years ago. But never mind my nostalgia. Though much has changed and often not for the better, much remains. It is after all, one of the world's great cities and I miss it every day.

[Rossdavidh · Rating 3 out of 5]

There are some books which one reads for a story. There are some books one reads for a Big Idea, or perhaps Many Small Ideas, about a non-fiction topic. There are books of poetry, which are read (in my limited experience) more for achieving a certain state of mind, more about emotions than about a story, or knowledge.

This book, although it is non-fiction and not poetry, is not really a Big Idea book, or even a Many Small Ideas book. Its affect is more like a book of poetry. When I would read a bit of it, I could achieve a certain calm and reflective state that was pleasant and a worthy end in itself. Plus, you learn a few things about Instanbul.

The books is roughly divided into the city's Byzantine era, its Ottoman era, and its post-WWI era. Large parts of it are in second person, which normally annoys me but here works well, as we see one historical attraction after another in its present state, as if we were tourists in Istanbul now, alternating with the history that created (or in some cases re-created, or re-re-created) it.

The effect is as if we are a tourist in Istanbul, in the company of an expert personal guide, with no rushed schedule and plenty of time to talk about how the city became its current, layered self. Istanbul is literally where Europe and Asia meet, and it has been the meeting point of different cultures for millenia. Of necessity perhaps, the further back one goes in time the more we are limited to hearing about the monarchs and their spouses, but in recent times we hear a lot about Turkish poets. There are many tips about the best places to have coffee, eat local cuisine, or otherwise pass the time; it is obvious that the author has spent many lazy afternoons or evenings in Istanbul.

I don't know if I will ever make it to Istanbul, but this book definitely bumped it up quite a few notches on my list.