Beautiful photos and good writing. Hemming wrote the important “Conquest of the Incas” so there are many fascinating historical details interspersed with his commentary on the architecture and its function in Inca society. The Incas are a familiar people: their utilitarianism, their bureaucracy, their expansionism — but they are also startlingly foreign: shrines, temples, sculptures, rituals dedicated to we’re-not-quite-sure-what. One colonial Spanish commentator remarked (paraphrasing): “With the Incas there is much ritual and little religion.” But from what is left, merely from their monumental architecture, this seems far from true. We, foreign passersby shuffling amongst their ruins, still participate in the raw wonder engendered by their works — we who have lost not only the secret key of the ritual but our access to the realm of its primal inspiration.