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Better Bouldering
This guide provides the techniques and tricks gleaned from a 22-year career by John Sherman, America's most noted and notorious bouldering guru.
104 pages, Paperback
First published June 1, 1997
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Displaying 1 - 17 of 17 reviews
June 5, 2023
Full of jargon, slang, offhand opinions, and philosophical advice, but lacking in detailed or systematic descriptions of techniques, this book might be of use to moderately advanced boulderers but was useless to this newbie. Hey, John, do you want to tell us what some of these terms mean, or maybe provide a glossary or an index?
This book was phoned in by a guy who gives the impression that he was more interested in his self-presentation to the world as a cool-and-laid-back-yet-knowledgable guy than in actually conveying useful information. Not recommended.
This book was phoned in by a guy who gives the impression that he was more interested in his self-presentation to the world as a cool-and-laid-back-yet-knowledgable guy than in actually conveying useful information. Not recommended.
December 18, 2017
Review on Better bouldering.3 edition
John Sherman is an American climber with quite an astonishing climbing record. If you google him, you`ll see a video of him bouldering in Hueco Tanks, on relative high boulder problems without crash pads, and doing real moves without the safety and comfort of the crash pad. In a recent video, which shows him preparing for the boulder classic “Midnight Lightning”, in Yosemite Valley, he is compared to being as important to bouldering as Thomas Jefferson was to democracy, what Albert Einstein was to physics and what Anna Nicole was to Playboy. Wow, that’s quite some comparison. John “Verm” Sherman is a legend in American bouldering history. He is the inventor of the V scale of bouldering grades, he put Hueco Tanks on the bouldering map, established over 2000 first ascents. Has allegedly climbed over 20 000 boulder problems. His injury record is also quite astonishing with a history of 7 concussions, two broken wrists, to knee surgery, a double hip replacement, a torn rotator cuff, and lumbar discectomy. John Sherman is a man who one can say has committed to his bouldering. Reading this book, you will recognize his extreme level of passion, dedication, and commitment towards climbing, recognized to him as bouldering. The most recent years he has been a nature photographer and taken lots of pictures of birds. He has become a spokesman for the endangered American Condor, and has followed them with his camera lens on several occasions and exploring their natural habitat. He just recently, at an age of 57 took upon the challenged to climb Yosemite`s iconic bouldering problem again, “Midnight Lightning”, which holds the bouldering grade V8 which is translated into European standard 7b/7b+ according to the French bouldering scale widely used and which grading system originated in the Fontainbleau bouldering area.
The manifest of a living legend
The book better bouldering is a vividly illustrated book with lots of pictures. The picture part gives the reader an easy to understand approach to the different topics involving bouldering. The book starts off with describing the necessary gear needed for a safe and joyful bouldering escapade. One good perspective is the variation of pictures regarding high profiled boulder athletes and completely unknown boulderers having a great time on the rock. This makes this book a readable and sometimes funny experience, since the more experienced reader can pick up new tricks. One new trick that was new to this reader was the approach to boulder with a helmet. This is something J. Sherman recommends. And he keeps the helmet on, even on his first ascents that have death potential with a fall. Astonishing! The gear section in the book covers the essential equipment for bouldering, as bouldering is a fairly low threshold sport. The author has a quite sharp sense of humor and might leave some of his readers quite bedazzled if they recognize his style and as the norm. Your everyday boulderer, might be a bit toned down compared to John “Vermin” Sherman. The V in the Vermin is the capital letter behind the V scale in the American bouldering grading system.
John Sherman is a man of anecdote. They are widespread throughout the book. On the topic of cleaning holds he states that “Because the boulders have been good to me, I treat them as my friends”. When he`s the first to flash the boulder Autobahn, in Tusula Oklahoma in hot and humid conditions he states on the fourth dogma of his story, “don`t tell your partners where the car keys are until you`re ready to leave”. And he has many more, well worth reading.
On the topic of re-stacking pads underneath a boulder problem with a boulder on, which you`re passing by, he states “I feel nothing but pure hatred for the jackass who ruined my landing zone, and when I get down that pad-tossing chump better hope he has a head start”.
It seems to be a guy you want to stay friends with.
The style of communication
Alongside the author's personalized communication style, with an overwhelming experience. Like if there is a situation, that could appear while you`re bouldering, or if there is any type of problem regarding bouldering, the author has been there and he can tell you a story to illustrate the issue. The author has also left a chapter on the topic of “the mental game” to illustrate the important side of that aspect in bouldering. Although it doesn`t bring any new light on the topic, and it is not so easy to know what to learn from it, since regarding the author's safety regards on high balls, he is a little more willing than the average to take a risk.
The mind game of bouldering includes “muscle memory”, “retaining bad muscle-memory”, “emotional wiring”, “pre-visualization”, “relaxation”, “frame of mind”, “focus”, “thinking positive and trying hard” or maybe as the legendary John Gill stated it “bouldering is moving meditation”.
There are some parts of the book that are left to evidence-based lecturings, like the section on slab and overhang climbing and the calculus with the physics of vectors. The model he present is to illustrate the need for friction and keeping your hips in towards the rock with better core muscles, better position of the body to apply greater normal force on holds.
The tips, trick and cheat sticks
There is a lot of the technique, in the game of climbing, jamming is one of the styles the author gives good attention. There are some guest authors in the book as well, Paul Robinson on the topic of competition climbing and Angie Payne give a view from a woman`s perspective.
And there is a close up with injury prevention of fingers, shoulders, knees, and back before the small notes on the other American pioneers of bouldering.
A good wort read.
John Sherman is an American climber with quite an astonishing climbing record. If you google him, you`ll see a video of him bouldering in Hueco Tanks, on relative high boulder problems without crash pads, and doing real moves without the safety and comfort of the crash pad. In a recent video, which shows him preparing for the boulder classic “Midnight Lightning”, in Yosemite Valley, he is compared to being as important to bouldering as Thomas Jefferson was to democracy, what Albert Einstein was to physics and what Anna Nicole was to Playboy. Wow, that’s quite some comparison. John “Verm” Sherman is a legend in American bouldering history. He is the inventor of the V scale of bouldering grades, he put Hueco Tanks on the bouldering map, established over 2000 first ascents. Has allegedly climbed over 20 000 boulder problems. His injury record is also quite astonishing with a history of 7 concussions, two broken wrists, to knee surgery, a double hip replacement, a torn rotator cuff, and lumbar discectomy. John Sherman is a man who one can say has committed to his bouldering. Reading this book, you will recognize his extreme level of passion, dedication, and commitment towards climbing, recognized to him as bouldering. The most recent years he has been a nature photographer and taken lots of pictures of birds. He has become a spokesman for the endangered American Condor, and has followed them with his camera lens on several occasions and exploring their natural habitat. He just recently, at an age of 57 took upon the challenged to climb Yosemite`s iconic bouldering problem again, “Midnight Lightning”, which holds the bouldering grade V8 which is translated into European standard 7b/7b+ according to the French bouldering scale widely used and which grading system originated in the Fontainbleau bouldering area.
The manifest of a living legend
The book better bouldering is a vividly illustrated book with lots of pictures. The picture part gives the reader an easy to understand approach to the different topics involving bouldering. The book starts off with describing the necessary gear needed for a safe and joyful bouldering escapade. One good perspective is the variation of pictures regarding high profiled boulder athletes and completely unknown boulderers having a great time on the rock. This makes this book a readable and sometimes funny experience, since the more experienced reader can pick up new tricks. One new trick that was new to this reader was the approach to boulder with a helmet. This is something J. Sherman recommends. And he keeps the helmet on, even on his first ascents that have death potential with a fall. Astonishing! The gear section in the book covers the essential equipment for bouldering, as bouldering is a fairly low threshold sport. The author has a quite sharp sense of humor and might leave some of his readers quite bedazzled if they recognize his style and as the norm. Your everyday boulderer, might be a bit toned down compared to John “Vermin” Sherman. The V in the Vermin is the capital letter behind the V scale in the American bouldering grading system.
John Sherman is a man of anecdote. They are widespread throughout the book. On the topic of cleaning holds he states that “Because the boulders have been good to me, I treat them as my friends”. When he`s the first to flash the boulder Autobahn, in Tusula Oklahoma in hot and humid conditions he states on the fourth dogma of his story, “don`t tell your partners where the car keys are until you`re ready to leave”. And he has many more, well worth reading.
On the topic of re-stacking pads underneath a boulder problem with a boulder on, which you`re passing by, he states “I feel nothing but pure hatred for the jackass who ruined my landing zone, and when I get down that pad-tossing chump better hope he has a head start”.
It seems to be a guy you want to stay friends with.
The style of communication
Alongside the author's personalized communication style, with an overwhelming experience. Like if there is a situation, that could appear while you`re bouldering, or if there is any type of problem regarding bouldering, the author has been there and he can tell you a story to illustrate the issue. The author has also left a chapter on the topic of “the mental game” to illustrate the important side of that aspect in bouldering. Although it doesn`t bring any new light on the topic, and it is not so easy to know what to learn from it, since regarding the author's safety regards on high balls, he is a little more willing than the average to take a risk.
The mind game of bouldering includes “muscle memory”, “retaining bad muscle-memory”, “emotional wiring”, “pre-visualization”, “relaxation”, “frame of mind”, “focus”, “thinking positive and trying hard” or maybe as the legendary John Gill stated it “bouldering is moving meditation”.
There are some parts of the book that are left to evidence-based lecturings, like the section on slab and overhang climbing and the calculus with the physics of vectors. The model he present is to illustrate the need for friction and keeping your hips in towards the rock with better core muscles, better position of the body to apply greater normal force on holds.
The tips, trick and cheat sticks
There is a lot of the technique, in the game of climbing, jamming is one of the styles the author gives good attention. There are some guest authors in the book as well, Paul Robinson on the topic of competition climbing and Angie Payne give a view from a woman`s perspective.
And there is a close up with injury prevention of fingers, shoulders, knees, and back before the small notes on the other American pioneers of bouldering.
A good wort read.
July 16, 2022
This is a good starting guide for those wanting to boulder. The author is funny, dedicated to the art of the climb, and willing to encourage those who wish to get involved in such a beautiful sport. However, he does tend to degrade indoor climbers, which I found to be slightly off-putting. We are all coming into the sport through different avenues. Experiences and desire will differ. That does not always mean one is better than the other. Enough said. I will keep this book as long as I climb.
October 24, 2017
Some useful technique tips, like putting maximum force on your feet so as to increase normal force and therefore decrease the ease with which you might slip off a hold, as well as some useful safety tips like being sure to place your crash pad such that you don't land on the edge and roll your ankle. However, the author consistently used jargon (e.g. send, problem, beta, crux, flash, redpoint) far in advance of defining these terms, and sometimes without ever doing so. Additionally, the text oft read more like a philosophical tract on the ethics of cheater stones and tick marks rather than a technical guide to better bouldering.
July 5, 2018
I may have glossed the book a little bit and focused on the beautiful pictures. I mainly do indoor climbing, and a lot of the information in this book is focused on outdoor climbing, but it was still intriguing content. I was hoping to learn more about technique (weight balancing, footwork) but I think I'm starting to learn that you can't just read about technique, it's something you learn over time with experience.
Overall I definitely recommend this book, especially to those interested in outdoor climbing.
Overall I definitely recommend this book, especially to those interested in outdoor climbing.
February 2, 2020
If you climb at least 3 times a week then you'd rather go with Hunter/Hague's Self-Coached Climber and then the Anderson bros' Training Manual (while reading Macleod's Make or Break in conjunction for injury prevention)
Great sweeping overview though on all types of movement (incl. jamming / dynos), complete with hilarious captions. Felt a bit outdated relative to all the newer references out there.
Great sweeping overview though on all types of movement (incl. jamming / dynos), complete with hilarious captions. Felt a bit outdated relative to all the newer references out there.
February 24, 2022
First book I've ever read on bouldering, and first book read in 2022.
I've been (indoor) bouldering for just under 2 years, so I'm still somewhat of a noobie (sending 6b+/V4 at my best), but I'm hooked, and eager to keep going.
Lots of great advice in this book. I think it's a book I'd like to re-visit many times and reflect on. The advice in the book comes from a professional boulderer (John Sherman - the guy who started the V grades) and covers many topics including mental training, technique, dynamic movements, injury prevention, and recovery.
I learned a lot and took away heaps of motivation to train harder and enjoy what I am doing more. YouTube videos are great but a book like this fills in lots of the gaps. If you like bouldering and reading books, go for it. A fun and comprehensive bouldering guide overall.
I've been (indoor) bouldering for just under 2 years, so I'm still somewhat of a noobie (sending 6b+/V4 at my best), but I'm hooked, and eager to keep going.
Lots of great advice in this book. I think it's a book I'd like to re-visit many times and reflect on. The advice in the book comes from a professional boulderer (John Sherman - the guy who started the V grades) and covers many topics including mental training, technique, dynamic movements, injury prevention, and recovery.
I learned a lot and took away heaps of motivation to train harder and enjoy what I am doing more. YouTube videos are great but a book like this fills in lots of the gaps. If you like bouldering and reading books, go for it. A fun and comprehensive bouldering guide overall.
January 15, 2018
Worth it for all of the gorgeous pictures alone.
Mostly an easy read, loved the personal stories and the style of the author (not afraid to ruffle a few feathers)
Coming from a solely indoor boulderer - so far, definitely want to go outdoors too - know that there are plenty of parts in the book that are mostly useful only for outdoor boulderers. Still found it interesting though.
Mostly an easy read, loved the personal stories and the style of the author (not afraid to ruffle a few feathers)
Coming from a solely indoor boulderer - so far, definitely want to go outdoors too - know that there are plenty of parts in the book that are mostly useful only for outdoor boulderers. Still found it interesting though.
March 16, 2022
What a great guide! Planning to buy this one moving forward. So much good advice and lots of fun stories. Hard to take in all the amazing info. Great colour photography - a few new "to climb" destinations going on my list!
December 5, 2018
Hilarious writing with Golden information!
March 7, 2021
Vocabulary is everything for an educated rock climber. This book is packed with great lingo, terms and need-to-know for the crag. I often go back to it just to refresh.
September 20, 2013
This is the most comprehensive and useful resource I've found on bouldering. I've managed to fill a page and a half of A4 with practical steps to take in my training. The book is really detailed and has many diagrams and photo sequences to illustrate points. John Sherman writes in a really funny way too, he's brash and at times his ego could fill my climbing centre, but he's also got a lot of humility in the right places and shows a lot of respect for other people's personal styles. Possibly my favourite quote: "Chances are half of you readers skipped all that nancy footwork chatter and turned right to the glory pages. Yep, this is where we discuss how to use your hands and arms and impress the hell out of folks when your feet cut loose and you stay attached to the rock by the merest of handholds and the most massive of biceps."
April 28, 2008
A good overview/review of bouldering basics augmented with some nice stories from Sherman's career. His sense of humor and practical tips make it worth a read for beginners and as well as those who hit the rock frequently.
May 3, 2012
Interesting stories in an easy to read book. Bought this on a whim to kill some time waiting for a friend and am glad I did. Picked up a few bouldering pointers (maybe because I don't really boulder).
February 20, 2008
Tips and techniques for bouldering and rock climbing in general with exciting/ hilarious short stories and tales thoughout.
August 16, 2010
Mostly very basic, common sense tips. Boring. But it does have a scant few stray gems, and some interesting stories.
July 4, 2012
Fun book (not too many of them) on bouldering from a guy who loves bouldering a lot...and himself a bit. Lots of pretty pictures and interesting thoughts, but in the end you just gotta do it.
Displaying 1 - 17 of 17 reviews