Upon first seeing its unforgiving rapids, 20-year-old traveler Mick O’Shea began dreaming of a solo expedition down the Mekong River, from its source in Tibet to the South China Sea. This exhilarating travel book captures O’Shea’s extremely dangerous kayak adventure into the unknown through remote gorges, terrifying rapids, and deadly whirlpools, past floating headless bodies, looming dams and Chinese soldiers.
Always seeking adventure and adrenaline, this explorer was immediately attracted to the Mekong’s power as well as to its spiritual and cultural significance and exotic beauty. This extraordinary true story of one man’s wild ride down one of the fastest and most dangerous rivers in the world is a compelling read for armchair travelers, extreme-sports fans, environmentalists, and Southeast Asia enthusiasts.
A professional kayak guide from Western Australia who discovers that the Mekong has never been followed from source-to-sea does just that. He hikes in Tibet to the recognised source, then follows it until becomes of paddle-able size. The upper Mekong is coming into flood, so a number of weeks delay while his 'team' all try to renegotiate for higher fees with less risk endanger the prospects of success. In the end he walks away losing all the money already invested in them, and a heap of gear they refuse to return. O'Shea blames himself for rushing in his team section and taking people who meet criteria, but aren't invested in the journey, or a good match with him. As a consequence, he is kayaking in flood, which adds an element of risk, and he very nearly comes unstuck a number of times, especially kayaking some dangerous areas without any support team. The book provides good descriptions of the white water, including simple descriptions for those of us who aren't familiar with the jargon. After the Mekong Gorges of Tibet, it in on to the wild water of Yunnan in China. Here he is joined by a new support crew who are more invested in the journey, and who work well with O'Shea. As part of the Yunnan stretch, come the dams and the ongoing construction of other dams - seven planned at the time. From now on, the book considers the effects these Chinese dams have, and will continue to have on the downstream people. The most shocking (but unfortunately not surprising) thing is that the Chinese have undertaken no assessment of the downstream effects of the dams (ecologically, culturally and for horticulture etc). Unsurprisingly they don't care about the ecosystem or the peoples lives effected by the limitation on natural cycles of the river. Through the remaining countries which border the Mekong (Laos and Myanmar, then Laos and Thailand, then into Thailand, into Cambodia, then the Vietnamese delta) there is limited whitewater, but more contact with the local people. O'Shea is very good at communicating with these river people, and his love of the river is evident in his ability to communicate with them, earning their trust and therefore their assistance when required. He includes plenty of stories of their hardships and then confusion about the river cycles changing - as many are unaware of the Chinese dams and their effecting the flow levels. His journey finishes after 141 days, and he is recorded as the first person to traverse the river from source-to-sea.
I enjoyed this a lot (as a book I read on holiday, it broke up a string of fiction books I wasn't exactly enjoying as much as my usual fare), and though the balance of technical kayaking stuff, journey preparation/admin, history and cultural interaction was pretty much right.
Read as part of BCBE 13.5 in the category of book set in Asia. This book takes us on a great adventure, through many dangerous and hair-raising experiences, as the author becomes the first person to navigate the Mekong River in a kayak from Tibet to the South China Sea. His experiences also give us fascinating glimpses of the people and the geography along the way and, most importantly, of the damage that is being done to these people by damming and development of the river. The downside of this adventure would have to be that Mick O'Shea's determination and focus on achievement of his personal goals seems really quite self centred, even arrogant. His initial departure with the wrong support team, lack of adequate finances and other areas of poor decision-making, frequently put both himself and others at unnecessary risk for what seems like little result other than feeding his own ego. To his credit, half the income from the book is going towards raising awareness of the situation for the people along the Mekong. There is quite a lot of technical information on the technique of kayaking through virtually unnavigable areas, so this book would be far more interesting to white water enthusiasts, but it is nonetheless interesting thanks to the characters we meet along the way and the insight into these unique people and places. ***
What would you do if you were to take a shower but the water is only trickling? Then you found out that you neighbor was controlling the water flow for his own use and discretion. Just because he is closer to the water supply?!
That was the first thing that came to mind after reading this book. Common sense alone will tell you what the Chinese are doing by building not just one dam but a series of dams will have serious negative effects on the life of people in the countries downstream who barely have enough to eat. This is injustice on a grand scale.
Very good accounts of geography, culture, different people and way of life through the six countries that the Mekong flows through. Both eye opening and humorous. Not to mention an amazing adventure that would make sailing around the globe solo pale by comparison.
Narrative a a kayak journey from the headwaters of the Mekong to it's mouth in Vietnam. Makes you think about the consequences of the 5 dams that the Chinese are building on the upper Mekong. Good adventure and review of geography.