The Vanishing Stepwells of India

by Victoria Lautman, Divay Gupta (Foreword)

Some of the finest architectural structures in India are to be found below these are its ancient stepwells. Stepwells are unique to India; the earliest rudimentary wells date from about the 4th century CE, and eventually they were built throughout the country, particularly in the arid western regions. Stepwell construction evolved so that, by the 11th century, they were amazingly complex feats of architecture and engineering, not only providing water all year round but also serving as gathering places, refuges and retreats. The journalist Victoria Lautman first encountered stepwells three decades ago, and this book – now available in paperback for the first time – is a testament to her determined efforts over several years to document these fascinating but largely unknown structures before they disappear. Of the thousands of stepwells that proliferated across India, most were abandoned as a result of modernization and the depletion of water tables. Frequently commissioned by royal or wealthy patrons, the wells vary greatly in scale and design. Some also functioned as subterranean Hindu temples, featuring columned pavilions and elaborate stone carvings. Islamic wells were generally less flamboyant, but often incorporated shady loggias and small chambers in which to relax and escape the stifling heat. Today, few stepwells are in use. The majority have been left to silt up, fill with rubbish and crumble into disrepair. Gradually, however, the Indian government and heritage organizations are recognizing the need to preserve these architectural wonders. In 2014 India’s grandest and best-known stepwell, the Rani ki Vav in Patan, Gujarat, became a UNESCO World Heritage site. In her introduction, Lautman discusses why and where the stepwells were built. She reflects on the reasons they became derelict and considers how the appreciation of stepwells is changing with the work of organizations and individuals who aim to protect and restore them. The main part of the book is arranged in a broadly chronological order, with up to four pages devoted to each of c . 70 stepwells, every one unique in design and engineering. The name, location (including GPS coordinates) and approximate date of each well accompany colour photographs and a concise commentary by Lautman on the history and architecture of the well and her experience of visiting it. While many of the stepwells are rather decrepit, their magnificent engineering and great beauty never fail to impress.

Genres: India, Photography

224 pages, Paperback

Published October 6, 2020

Reviews

[elstaffe · Rating 4 out of 5]

Read this because it was mentioned in Dan Nott's Hidden Systems (either as further reading or in the bibliography) and I am so glad I did. Even just the cover photo flicked the switch of "yes, this thing. I've never heard of it before but I already am excited to learn more", but reading through the book (accompanied by the awe-inspiring stepwell photographs) cemented that. Learning about stepwells through this book felt like putting on a new coat that instantly feels like you've had it forever. I'm excited to learn more, will be consulting the stepwell atlas (http://stepwells.org/atlas.php?cmbm=1) before any trip I make to see if there's any stepwells nearby, and am really quite satisfied with this book as an introduction to a topic that draws you in by showing rather that too much telling. The only reason I'm going with four rather than five stars is that I don't think I'll be rereading it regularly.


Pull quotes/notes
"All it took was one look over a modest stone wall on my first trip to India more than thirty years ago, and the ground disappeared. In its place was a man-made canyon with a complex parade of steps, columns and platforms leading into the earth to an unfathomable depth. It was utterly disorientating. I had no idea what I was seeing, but it subverted the experience of architecture as something we look up at, not down into. It was exciting and transgressive, and ultimately catapulted me into an unplanned trajectory across India in search of the most fascinating and mysterious structures I have ever seen but had never heard of." (9)

"Even though the deities inside the niches have long since disappeared, there is a marvellous staccato visual rhythm wherever the eye rests - except that it rests on litter, too." (56) KUNDVAV
KAPADVANJ, GUJARAT
I really like the idea of visual rhythm--I connect with that more than a lot of art descriptive language

"However, the rhythmic parade of Islamic pointed arches is still prominent on the ground-level promenade." (76) FEROZ SHAH KOTLA BAOLI, DELHI
Rhythmic is so much more evocative than "evenly spaced" as a descriptor--I don't know if this is a normal architectural term or if full kudos go to the author, but either way, I like it. Perhaps it's a...term of art

"To combat relentless thrust, the well narrows noticeably towards the bottom (opposite, left). Agrasen ki Baoli is now a popular tourist destination, although some believe that it is haunted." (85)



"As in the case of so many baolis, it lies quietly in wait behind a simple wall off a country road...
Information about this behemoth is sketchy at best. The spread of possible dates of construction spans three centuries, which is never a good sign." (140) NEEMRANA BAORI
NEEMRANA, RAJASTHAN
Lurking

"Ventilation shafts were cleverly inserted to draw fresh air into the extraordinary structure, which today houses remnants of Raj-era equipment, plenty of guano and at least one startled mongoose." (142) AKBAR'S BAOLI
AGRA, RAJASTHAN

"Many stepwells in India are reputed to have been hiding places for criminals, which is no stretch of the imagination considering that they were often well hidden in the countryside." (175) SAIDU KALAL KI BAOLI (JIYANI CHOR KI BAOLI, SHAH JAHAN KI BAOLI) MEHAM, HARYANA
WELL hidden get it get it

[Henry Berry · Rating 5 out of 5]

As the term denotes, “stepwells” are steps — means of access — to wells, below surface or underground sources of water mostly in western India’s arid regions. Gujarat (north of Mumbai) is noted as one such area. “Cistern” is a Western term giving the idea of the geographical water feature that is the focus of and basically the reason for a stepwell; though cistern does not begin to bring to mind the larger purposes of a stepwell and especially in line with the interest of this book, the architecture of stepwells reflecting Indian artistic styles taking into account the importance of access to a water source to a community and a site that could also serve as a community center. A Roman bath with its surrounding architecture and as a place for socializing gives the idea of the Indian stepwells (although the water source differs in that the source of the bath was man-made).

After introductory pages on the historical background, cultural and social significance, and general architectural features of stepwells, over sixty particular stepwells are treated individually going over local natural and social environment, history, and distinctive architectural features. Photographs — though often no more than three or four — are effective in picturing the uniqueness of the respective stepwell; while overall the photographs of varying perspective and detail create an impression of the Indian artistic sensibility combining decoration and usefulness. Stepwells invited ones to spend time at them while providing access to an all-important water source. Steps could serve as seats as well as paths to the water, and many stepwells had chambers going off of them where persons could stay to get out of oppressive heat or in some cases, meditate alone or perform religious ceremonies.

Design of larger stepwells resembles the intricate, maze-like artwork of the Dutch artist M. C. Esher (1898-1972). Made centuries before this Western artist, Indian stepwells seen throughout this volume could have served as inspiration and even models for Esher’s artworks. Similar and in some aspects identical layering of features and maze-like construction and effect are evident in the respective artworks from the different cultures.

Dating mostly from the fourth century C.E. to the eleventh century, most stepwells are in states of neglect and ruin. Although their use continued into later times, with the introduction of plumbing, changes in the design of residential buildings, and changes in community demographics, stepwells were no longer central to a community. And with this, no one was responsible for or interested in their upkeep. Today though, with the interest in ethnic and national cultures, attention is being given to stepwells for their impressive architecture and what they reflect about social history. One outstanding stepwell in Gujarat is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with efforts being made to preserve and restore others. Anyone seeing the photos of stepwells and learning about them in this book would agree Indian stepwells are among the top level of world architectural treasures.

[Phillip · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.75 / 5.0

Encyclopedia of a phenomenon I had no idea existed. Nice pictures and brief description. Tough angles for photography but still would have been nice if they were a touch better and tied more directly to notes in text. Certainly would benefit from an comprehensive historical study. I can envision a wonderful history 0f India built around the inspiration and construction of these unique monuments.

[Nick Chantarasak · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wonderful book trying to map and record some of India’s many, but diminishing architectural gems. Step wells are probably one of the most fascinating architectural typologies in the world- beautiful, function and mysterious. I loved this book from start to finish and it made me envious of the author being able to go across India on this treasure hunt - such a worthwhile and admirable cause. I hope to carry on and find my own one day.