Off 13: The Eastern Shore of Virginia Guidebook

by Kirk Mariner

It's not surprising that the Eastern Shore of Virginia remains largely undis­covered by tourists: it is often even left off the map! Two isolated Virginia counties unconnected to the rest of the state, the Virginia Eastern Shore is a quiet little slice of countryside wedged between ocean and bay, dotted with small villages, generously endowed with history. The water is never far away here, and the pace of life is noticeably easier. This guidebook takes you to virtually every corner of a part of the state that even most Virginians have never visited: Chincoteague Island, famous for its ponies and a fine ocean beach; remote Tangier, where the streets are too small for automobiles; historic Accomac, with its beautifully pre­served old buildings and homes; and many even smaller and more out-of­the-way places like Oyster and Cherrystone, Pungoteague and Wachapreague, Franktown and Horntown and Modest Town. And islands as diverse as Wallops, from which rockets blast off into outer space, and uninhabited Cobb, for which you'll need your own boat. No need to worry about where to eat or lodge when visiting places like greater downtown Eastville (population 185) or the giant metropolis of Onancock (population 1,434). You'll probably be surprised at the variety of what the Virginia Eastern Shore has to offer, and pleased at the prices. And this guidebook lists all the possibilities.

196 pages, Paperback

First published April 19, 2000

Reviews

[Peter Lehu · Rating 5 out of 5]

Driving around the Eastern Shore of Virginia you will see mostly tall pine forests, potato farming, marshes, and large dilapidated houses. It has a certain beauty if you like vast rural expanses. Who would expect that a section of the east coast of the United States could feel as remote as the Russian steppe? The most intriguing part for me are the hundreds of place names on road signs and maps. Nassawadox. Pungoteague. Assawoman. Onancock. Tasley. What are these places? Where did these names come from? Who lives there? What are their histories? The ESVA is hundreds of square miles yet the current population is only 65,000. But with hundreds of these named villages, hamlets, and crossroads--some of them long extinct--there is clearly a lot of hidden history.

Since I was a child vacationing on Chincoteague Island I have had a peculiar attraction to the history and culture of the ESVA. Having come across a copy of Mariner's guidebook in a rental cottage and subsequently buying my own copy I have a renewed interest in learning about this obscure area. Walking around an actual town like Accomac or Onancock is peaceful and picturesque, but with this guidebook in hand it is also compelling and fascinating. Driving through marshland and past old farm houses with the book populates the landscape with historical figures and stories.

The level of detail Mariner provides about the tiniest hamlet or extinct village like Franklin City or Signpost can only be a labor of love for the region and is truly something to behold. Driving around the peninsula with a dog-eared copy of Off 13 in the passenger seat is a unique and wonderful experience.

[LInda L · Rating 5 out of 5]

I happened to grow up in this area, so was truly fascinated, especially about the old churches. Even though I lived there for my first 18 years -- who knew about historical stuff?? Kirk Mariner updates this periodically. If you want to learn about the area, this is a good start.