Rick Lipsey, a Sports Illustrated writer and reporter, returned from a vacation with an unusual job offer. After playing a few rounds at Bhutan's Royal Thimphu Golf Club, one of the members asked if he'd consider becoming the kingdom's golf pro. "Sure, I'd love to move to Bhutan," Lipsey flippantly responded. Next thing you know, he, his wife, and their infant daughter are boarding a plane for this remote Himalayan country. With one foot in the ancient world and the other in the twenty-first century, Bhutan is working to successfully meld the old and the new, from subsistence farming and religious festivals to the Internet and World Wrestling Entertainment. In Golfing on the Roof of the World, Rick sets great golf travel writing against the bigger political story of Bhutan's entrance to the modern world. Not only does he teach and play golf in the shadow of the world's tallest peaks, but he also comes to understand the seismic shifts in store for the last Buddhist kingdom where peace and spiritual prosperity have abounded, and the national standard for measuring success is Gross National Happiness.
The book makes interesting reading, for any American planning a touristy incursion to Burma and wants the maximum buck for every one of his hardened dollar spent on his noble venture. Unfortunately for me, I am not American so therefore was able to quickly ignore the incessant references to Bhutanese love for the American culture and values. The author who was not even a professional golf teacher, took up the job of a professional golfer to live among the elites of the tiny country, and proceeded to present all of his views taken from the same elites. He took little pains to understand the plight of the majority poor Bhutanese but I guess the poor spoil a good holiday experience with their miserable calls for alms and attention.
The book does give you some exposure to Bhutan, its history and political makeup, but there is nothing really for any avid golfer, or anyone seriously interested in the Bhutanese culture I am afraid, but if you are an American planning a trekking holiday and hoping to hit golf balls in pure unspoiled natural mountains, please read on.......
This was a fun quick read ... if you appreciate what golf can offer. I'm glad I read this after Beyond the Sky and Earth by Jamie Zeppa. It helped me really appreciate the place of golf in Bhutan ... and the contrast from the rest of the country. (Granted Zaeppa's experience was in 1989 for 3 years, and Lipsey's was in 2002 for 3 months.) I imagine most tourists traveling to Bhutan hope to find an experience closer to Zeppa's (more natural... but with indoor plumbing). But Lipsey's book gives a great image of the contrast of living in the modern city of Thimphu, and how the elite live. Near the end of the book, Lipsey has a conversation with the chief justice of Bhutan. The chief justice asks Rick what he thinks Bhutan will look like 50 years from now. Rick's reply ... "I don't know how, but I think you'll find a way to meld the new with the old and retain the beautiful peace that pervades the kingdom." "That will not be easy," the chief justice said. "But we are trying."
If you play golf ánd if you like traveling this book of sports journalist Rick Lipsey needs your attention! He wrote a very well readable report of his time as a golf coach in Bhutan. Bhutan is a rather closed society far from everything high up in the Himalayas. That becomes quite clear from his book, even though Lipsey stays within his preferred circle of people. He is not mixing with the poor part of the Bhutan society, apart from a few young kids from poor families who got some golf lessons in his Youth Golf Society. The result is a view on Bhutan life in the upper class. That could be considered a pity, but on the other hand it is a golfing report and who is playing golf? After all, for a proper antropologistic book on Bhutan or whatever country one should not depend on a sports journalist. Well, having said that, Golfing on the Roof of the World is pleasant and interesting reading!
We I traveled to Bhutan, it was a dream come true - a step into Shangri La, Paradise found. But our trip was limited and was "staged" by the department of tourism which required a guide and a specified agenda. Lipsey's book provides a more realistic view of this Last Kingdom on Earth. Much to my delight, he also felt the positive karma of the national "happiness factor". Unlike my experience, he was able to go behind the scenes and come to learn about the day to day life of Bhutanese. As much as this country has its problems, it still seems like light years beyond any "developed" country. If you like golf, it is just a bonus. A WONDERFUL read recommended to all intrepid travelers!!
Part of my obsession with the Kingdom of Bhutan. The idea of Gross National Happiness is quite interesting. It's unclear whether it's enlightened or simply a new way to promote central planning and social conformity.