Famed for their high-concept catwalk shows and extravagant collections, the radical Dutch design duo Viktor & Rolf have taken the fashion world by storm over the last 15 years. This comprehensive exploration of their work includes an interview with the designers, a detailed biography and texts on each collection.
I've always enjoyed Viktor & Rolf, but now, I am in love. Previously, I saw their work as Ha-Ha conceptual humor. Now, it's like they've built an onion from the outside in (I'm kinda amused I can't think of a more fashion-y analogy.)
This book was made as an accompaniment to their retrospective at the Barbican. It includes photos from fashion shows, exhibits, magazines, sketches, interviews with V&R, but best of all, dolls. Instead of placing the collections on mannequins, specially made porcelain dolls were used. The dolls wear meticulously made miniature replicas of V&R garments. The effect is eerie and darling.
Chapters are dedicated to (nearly) each collection of their career. Descriptions can be short, never more than a page, but are always concise. When lacking in words, a chapter makes up for it in photos. Emphasis is put upon the staging of each show and the importance of performance. (After reading the book, I went to the V&R website, where video of almost every show is available. I highly recommend this for anyone reading the book.) The performance carries on to their Barbican show, the book gives great description to the experience of visiting the exhibit.
I've always loved humor in fashion. Self-referential and social commentary can sometimes come across as stale and preachy, but V&R manage to address fashion with wit, imagination, beauty, and hilarity. Ha-ha conceptual humor has more to it than I had thought.
The only downer: The Barbican is far away, and I'm all the way over here.
Not quite what I was hoping it would be -- which I guess isn't the fault of the book or anyone involved with it; the rating really fits my own tastes, rather than any critique of talent or aesthetic style.