Sons of Isan: Taking Refuge in a Thai Temple

by William Reyland

What if someone born and raised in the American Midwest were suddenly immersed in the culture of a Buddhist monastery in rural Thailand? This is a true story told with unflinching introspection and honesty – along with generous helpings of humor and warmth. William Reyland’s vivid and detailed descriptions of people and places carry us instantly half way around the globe. An admittedly naïve aspiration leads, by a tortuous path, to deeper understanding—and along the way we are offered a glimpse behind the saffron robes into our common human predicament.

184 pages, Paperback

First published June 24, 2009

About the author

William Reyland is a Hospice chaplain, musician and writer. He began writing during a self-seeking period spanning ten years across Asia, publishing his cultural and travel perspectives and eventually releasing his first book, Sons of Isan, Taking Refuge in a Thai Temple. Sons of Isan chronicles his year in a Thai temple as a layman and monk and continues to enjoy accolades from critics and readers alike. William holds an BA in Media Communications and Jazz Performance from Webster University, and an MA in Religious Philosophy from Assumption University. He currently lives and breathes in Kansas City, Mo. working as a hospice chaplain and musician.

Reviews

[Lady Ash Adan van Sealand]

***This book was reviewed for the San Francisco Book Review

Sons of Isan, by William Reyland, is the true story of one man's immersion in rich spirituality. At times mirthful, and brutally honest, it is a tale of introspection, and the journey to find deeper meaning in life. Having given away all his possessions, our intrepid narrator makes a pilgrimage to the Buddhist temple of Pramuenrat in Thailand. He went with the romantic notions fostered by Western society, whose interpretation of Buddhism is rather on the soft side. Disabused of these notions, he settles in to learn. He finds occupation in teaching English to the village children and monks, eventually teaching at the MahaChulalongkorn Buddhist college (I was pleased to recall the Siam king for whom the college is named for).

Adjustment comes hard, though. Between mosquitoes, heat, restless sleep, and a scary ‘bathroom’ with standing pools where the skeets breed, adapting take effort and willpower. Packs of semi-feral dogs roam the temple grounds.

Previous to this extreme, he studied with Thai Buddhists in a temple near his home in the US. It was this time of study that prompted a sojourn to study at a temple in Thailand. The first expedition, however, didn't end so well. There were issues of the flying ax handle variety, sure to put a damper on any sort of introspective study.

This memoir presents a compelling peek into life at a modern Buddhist wat (temple). I'm an anthropologist, and love cultural studies. The difference between traditional Buddhism and Western-influenced Buddhism was fascinating. I found it funny that the monks at Pramuenrat could carry mobiles but not wear watches. I do have to say ‘Nope!’ to the mosquitoes, and heat. I like being malaria free.

I loved the reminiscence of the time spent with monks in the Us. Haha, they were very concerned he wasn't married, and had custody of his son. Exploring different cultural values is a chance to grow, to learn, and to appreciate different cultures. Both in the US and Thailand, the Thai people seem a very warm and welcoming people. The beginning of some chapters are prefaced with a short vocabulary list of Thai words. I enjoy books that teach snippets of language.

I can only imagine the dedication this endeavour took. Sometimes, I think it would be nice to escape on a spiritual retreat like this, but I know I do not have that willpower. Would that I did. Perhaps I could find more of myself.

Sons of Isan is a fairly quick read, yet full of reflective value. It will prompt you to think more deeply about your own life.

📚📚📚📚📚 Highly recommended

[S. Jeyran Main]

“Sons of Isan: Taking Refuge in a Thai Temple” by William Reyland is an enthralling memoir that delves deep into the heart of Buddhist life in Thailand, offering a rare and intimate perspective from a Western convert. Reyland’s journey, marked by his determination to understand and embrace Buddhism, takes us to the Thai region of Isan and into the daily rhythms of life at the Wat Pramuenrat Buddhist temple. Reyland’s narrative is a testament to the transformative power of cultural immersion and spiritual seeking. His initial struggles with dietary adjustments and the shock of transitioning from Western life to a devout, monastic existence in Thailand are portrayed with honesty and relatability. Reyland’s background, marked by personal losses and a quest for spiritual fulfillment, renders his journey deeply personal and profoundly human.

The memoir is not just a recounting of a spiritual quest; it is also a vivid exploration of the nuances of Thai culture and Buddhism. Reyland’s interactions with various monks, such as Phra Suwatt, Luang Por, Abbot Sunthorn, and Phra Maha, are beautifully detailed, offering insights into the complexities and diversities of monastic personalities and philosophies.

One of the strengths of “Sons of Isan” lies in Reyland’s ability to weave humor and light-heartedness into his narrative, making the reading experience both enjoyable and educational. He skillfully balances the serious aspects of his spiritual journey with moments of levity, ensuring that the reader remains engaged throughout.

The book also serves as an informative guide, offering translations of Thai words and terms, and enriching the reader’s understanding of Thai history and Buddhist practices. Reyland’s transformation from an outsider to an integral member of the temple community, taking on roles such as English teacher and village driver, is inspiring and heartwarming.

Despite the challenge of navigating through complex Thai names and terminologies, Reyland’s storytelling prowess keeps the reader captivated. His descriptive prowess brings the temple and its surroundings to life, immersing the reader in the sights, sounds, and scents of Isan.

“Sons of Isan” is more than a memoir; it is a journey of self-discovery, a cultural exploration, and a spiritual awakening. It is an ideal read for anyone interested in Buddhism, Thai culture, or the experiences of a Westerner navigating a radically different way of life. Reyland’s journey is a reminder of the richness that lies in embracing new experiences and the transformative power of an open heart and mind.

[Al]

Before reading I was told that this book was “tough to categorize” which is a fair statement. It’s definitely a memoir, in that it chronicles a period of the author’s life along with his reaction to what was going on with and around him. It gives a bit of a sense of what it is like living in a Buddhist Monastery in Thailand, complicated due to the immense cultural differences between the author’s American Midwest history and rural Thailand. You’ll also learn a bit about Buddhism in the process of reading.

In spite of the author spending the vast majority of the book sitting in one area, calling it a travel book doesn’t seem unreasonable. The author is far from home, experiencing a new area geographically and, as mentioned above, culturally. Those are the main things I’d expect from a travel book. That he didn’t spend a lot of time chronicling the trip from and back to the US is, I suspect, because it wouldn’t add anything to the story. One thing that I like to see in travel books is the adventures (often hassles) of dealing with various logistics of the trip. We do see a bit of that as the author has to leave the country and then return because he is initially there on a short-term visa which can be reset by leaving the country for just a short time and later what he does so that he doesn’t have to continue resetting his visa.

This was a unique, often enlightening, and fun book to read.

**Originally written for "Books and Pals" book blog. May have received a free review copy. **

[Brad]

A true view of temple life.

I am a friend of the author, but didn’t know he had written of his time in a Thai temple until I saw a reference to it on Facebook. Bill is a drummer, and I felt a rhythm in his words as he described his experiences. This is not a book of Buddhist teachings, but it is a wonderful Dharma lesson taught through the reality of temple life seen through Western eyes.

[JP]

Read in Thailand jungle!

[Bruce Fry]

Having lived and worked for 4 years in Isan as a Westerner prior to the author's time there, I will simply say his experiences are very real.

[Andrew Bysterveldt]

I liked the author’s honesty. The story telling was engaging and I finished in a day because I needed to know what happened next

[Alison]

kindle 162 Buddhist temple