Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics: Studio Instant Access

by Julie Christine Cole

With hundreds of step-by-step illustrated instructions and a user-friendly, stay-flat format, Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics provides emerging fashion designers with comprehensive information on how to draft patterns for popular cut-and-sew stretch knit fabrics such as jersey and knits with spandex. After covering the
basics of knits and techniques for gauging stretch capacity, Julie Cole introduces a unique, simplified approach to drafting slopers using hip and top foundations. She then provides information on converting, drafting, grading, and reducing patterns for proper fit in four categories of stretch. The book proceeds to drafting slopers and patterns for tops, dresses, jackets, sweaters, cardigans, skirts, pants, lingerie, swimwear, and activewear. Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics is ideal for students with basic or intermediate design, patternmaking, and sewing skills for any course in which students design and draft patterns for knits; or courses that incorporate both knits and woven fabrics. Features
- Accurate and simplified system for patternmaking with stretch knit fabrics with easier to follow approach than other books
Each chapter includes
- Key terms
- Highly-illustrated step-by-step instructions
- Three types of 'Important,' 'Pattern Tip,' and 'Stitching Tip'
- End of chapter features 'Knit it Together' checklist, 'Stop! What Do I Do If...' troubleshooting tips, and 'Self Critique' review
- More than 900 technical drawings with color accents and 100 photographs of sewn samples on the dress form Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabric STUDIO
- Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips
- Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions
- Access downloadable files for half-size top and hip foundations, and slopers found in the book Teaching Resources
- Instructor's Guide and Test Bank includes sample syllabi, suggested projects, test questions, and evaluation guides PLEASE Purchasing or renting this ISBN does not include access to the STUDIO resources that accompany this text. To receive free access to the STUDIO content with new copies of this book, please refer to the book + STUDIO access card bundle ISBN 9781501318245 .

Genres: Sewing, Fashion

416 pages, Hardcover

First published February 25, 2016

Reviews

[Jacky Fraser · Rating 4 out of 5]

I've had this book for a while and have used it so far to draft a basic darted leotard sloper for my granddaughter that I've used as the basis for two competition ballroom dresses and leotard. The use of darts in lycra dance dresses is commonly used by the big professional companies but none of the commercial patterns use darts so this was a big incentive for me to buy this book when I realised she included an option for drafting darts. I also intend to draft other garments for my own clothes but, as I'm currently losing weight, I want to get nearer to my target weight before going through the process.

I've held one star back on the rating purely because it assumes so much prior knowledge. This isn't so unreasonable perhaps as it's primarily designed to be a text book for fashion students and includes a 'studio pass' for access to online study aids which I've not yet investigated. I've rated it on its usefulness to me, however, despite knowing I may not be its intended target audience. Because I'm a self taught sewer with no prior experience of pattern drafting (other than altering/hacking commercial patterns) I've had to do research with other drafting tutorials and Craftsy classes to gather more background knowledge of flat patternmaking until I felt sufficiently confident of tackling this and understand the grading principles that she uses for drafting the different stretch grades of slopers.

I haven't worked through the book entirely as it's laid out because my specific need was to draft a leotard but I did create the bodice and hip foundation en route to melding them together to form the leotard. The instructions and diagrams are laid out in a logical format but are somewhat spare so I was glad of my other research. I'd have benefited from a bit more hand holding at times, I had a few ups and downs and a few redrafts along the way but we've been very pleased with the resulting garment, especially my granddaughter as it fits so well and I can now make her dresses with fewer fitting sessions.

There are far more books around on patternmaking for woven fabrics, boosted by the many old ones by authors such as Natalie Bray and Winifred Aldrich which are still in common use. These days sewing with knit fabrics is very common and most sewing forum/group members are crying out for courses under £100 and books on sewing knits but, with the exception of Keith Richardson's 2008 book, this is the only other one I know of that is currently in print. I find that somewhat surprising in these circumstances not least because the tables in Mr Richardson's book were known to contain many errors that I'm told have never been corrected by the author. I can't compare the two as I've not seen a copy of the Richardson book and am unlikely to at £76 for a used copy.

So, if you have some patternmaking experience already and wish to make slopers for knit fabrics, I'm sure you'll be happy diving straight into this book. If you don't, I'd suggest you acquire a little more knowledge from the myriad of woven patternmaking books & tutorials first, as I did. Her initial draft for minimal stretch is not entirely dissimilar to a moulage pattern for wovens so her grading method to create slopers of increasing negative ease to create versions for moderate, very stretchy and super stretchy fabric types may well work perfectly well starting with a moulage.