Crescent Moon Over Laos

by Mark Boyter

“Who would want to shoot me?” Crescent Moon Over Laos starts with a solitary question, and the search for answers to this and other questions both personal and universal defines this journey of discovery. Mark Boyter’s book is a true account travel narrative of an 18-day journey in Laos, just months after the country had been re-opened to Western travel after ten years being closed. For Boyter, after three years living and travelling in Asia, Laos was a setting both familiar and foreign, comforting and disquieting. In this Laos there are few maps, fewer travelers, and many questions. In the world that is Asian travel, Laos is the unknown. That is Laos’ single defining characteristic. Unknown too is the path Boyter’s life will take. About to return to a North America three years removed from familiarity, leaving behind an Asia that has grown into “home”, dancing on the edge of a new love relationship, Laos is the lynch pin that ties these worlds together. Written in journal form, Crescent Moon Over Laos is a voyage of discovery that unfolds in the parallel stories of an emerging soul and a re-emerging country. It is about Laos and it is about a traveler: a novella in non-fiction. The through line of the story, the surface level, follows the simple story of the traveler. But like an elaborate wrought iron fence, the story filigrees off into tangential questions and observations of ethics, of personal place in the world, of self. Of Asia, of Buddhism, of travel. Of love and relationships, both with others and with ourselves. What begins as a travel memoir ends as a discussion of life, of what it means to be human.

Genres: Travel

200 pages, Paperback

First published September 12, 2013

Reviews

[MsSwisis]

‘Mekong. Just the name stokes the Asia of my imagination and desire; of sweltering days and yoked water buffalo breast deep in flooded rice paddies; of the whine of cicadas in a stifling dripping heat; of tangerine robed monks glowing through the evaporating mist of an early morning alms procession; of sensuality and desire and lust.

[Chris]

Firstly, I really liked the author's descriptive writing, it's right up in there with Paul Theroux
e.g. "Down fleeting narrow lanes, the Mekong appears in staccato bursts of blue and gold and black and silver paisley ripples." - just beautiful...

As someone who has retired to Thailand it was interesting for me, for the first time, to read about Mark's thoughts regarding the moral and ethical issues re: tourism in S E Asia, having experienced similar myself. Also, I didn't mind the author's constant digressions to relay anecdotes, which were usually worthwhile.

The above relates to the travel writing which makes up about 50% of the book, the rest of the text comprises of the author's self-analysis of his own very insecure state of mind at the time he made the trip. His habit of asking numerous questions about himself (and just about everything else) on nearly every page quickly began to detract from my overall enjoyment of the book. If question marks are your thing, you will not be disappointed!

Also, on several occasion in the text Mark orders the reader to "Listen:" presumably because he feels what follows is really important. I, as the reader, always prefer to judge a book myself without being directed by anyone...

Another unique feature was the author's occasional transition to an alternative writing style which appeared pretty nonsensical to me e.g. "Paul and his then-girlfriend had wanted Kyoto and settled for non-Kyoto, which was Nagoya. I wanted not-Vancouver and jumped at the not-Vancouver which was Nagoya."

I can't give 2 and a half stars, so it's 3 stars (for the travel aspect) and none for the self-therapy.

Sorry if I appear harsh, but this didn't turn out to be the travel writing I had anticipated. Maybe in the circumstances 2 books, - one on travel and the other on self-help/analysis (appealing to two different audiences would have been a better option.

[Robert Fear]

Searching for Serendipity

I really enjoyed reading this fascinating memoir.

It tells of the author’s eighteen day trip around Laos, after it had recently been opened up to western travellers. His rich descriptions transport you into a world of discovery in a country still blind to the dangers of tourism to come. Mark is a pioneer and you feel for him as he realises that he is among the first of many travellers and tourists that will inevitably follow.

Crescent Moon Over Laos is much more than a journey around a country though. It is also a voyage of self-discovery that Mark Boyter takes us on, with memories from his life and experiences in other Asian countries, especially Japan, Thailand and Nepal. These reflect a constant search for serendipity.

This book is highly recommended to readers interested in travel writing, adventure and self-discovery.

[John Gillgren]

Crescent Moon over Laos was an interesting but somewhat disjointed story of Mark, a man traveling through Laos looking for a reason to justify his being there. It seemed that Mark had an immense quantity of psychological questions that bothered him and not too many satisfying solutions that fulfilled his desire to answer these questions. He seemed to be in constant conflict about being identified as a ‘western foreigner’ or ‘Russian’ when in his opinion he was an entity and nothing more. Throughout the story, Mark would throw out a lot of ‘what if’s’ allowing the reader to draw their own conclusion on what Mark was supposed to do or should have done. Unfortunately Mark was easily duped into buying drinks, not getting answers he wanted and the story ended with Mark still having questions.

[Kate Vale]

I love to travel, too, but have generally restricted myself to places where being shot at was not very likely. When I picked up this book, I never expected to feel my heart rate skyrocket with the first two questions. It made me think about taking more chances as to where I travel, how long I am away from home, and whether I should travel alone or with others (but certainly not a tour group!).

I also learned something about a country I must admit I know very little about, except what was said that pertained to the Vietnam War so many years ago.

The kind of read that has expanded my reading horizons and perhaps where I plan my own next trip!

[Rose Scott]

How does one obtain a visa to travel to and within Laos? What is the meaning of life? Ah, those are questions, Grasshopper, but the answers are not so obvious. Crescent Moon over Laos is a philosophical chronicle of the ironies of travel and life in Laos. Boyter’s prose is honest, raw and humorous. If you are willing to ramble along the dusty roads from Vientiane to Louangphrabang, stopping along the way to venture into the soul of the writer you will find Crescent Moon over Laos an illuminating read.

[E.J. Bauer]

I am fascinated by travel memoirs and I love seeing new worlds through another's eyes. Finding the author's adventures in Laos overlaid with introspection, philosophy, moral dilemmas and concern for the dignity of local inhabitants was refreshing. It brought travel by first worlders in a newly opened country into sharp focus and gave me pause to think about my own sightseeing experiences. Once again I am in awe of anyone brave enough to explore with only the bare bones of a plan and shaky visa options and congratulate Mark Boyter on a very interesting account of his experiences.

[Heather Westing]

Mark Boyter manages, with language both spare and elegant, to take his reader not only on a trip through the mysterious land of Laos, but also on a trip into awakened spirituality. Both are equally fascinating, and I had trouble putting this book down.

[Iris Switzer]

As someone who has travelled all over the world, I found the personal journey compelling. A well-written travel book, about both the physical experience of travel and the spiritual/personal experience.

[Lisa-Scarlett Cruji]

A fascinating and refreshingly honest account of a man's travels through an unknown land at an unpredictable time. A must read for anyone seeking adventure and intrigue far beyond their everyday borders.

[Yuan Jur]

An evocative story, one to get into, a nice arc and unfolds well.

[Pearl Meaker]

A well written experienced traveler's look into the culture and people of Laos.

[Bennett Coles]

A brilliant travel story that manages to combine both a physical journey through a mysterious country and a spiritual journey toward inner peace.