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Fashion - Exploring Critical Issues
Description
Fashion is a statement, a stylised form of expression, which displays and begins to define a person, a place, a class, a time, a religion, a culture, subcultures, and even a nation. It speaks through form and varying degrees of function to identify both its creators and its wearers in a localised time, place and demographic. Its language is at once specific and universal, implicating its producers and consumers in a global exchange of evolving modes of identity and communication. Its materiality reflects innovation in craft and technology while appealing to an essential human response to texture and sense. Its reach extends from the street to the annals of academia and it persists as a fundamental cornerstone of everyday life and cultural expression. This collection of inter-disciplinary and trans-disciplinary chapters explores the historical, social, economic, political, psychological and artistic phenomenon of fashion, a powerful component of contemporary culture. Fashion lies at the very heart of persons, their sense of identity and the communities in which they live. Individuals emerge as icons of beauty and style; cities are identified as centres of fashion; the business of fashion is a billion dollar global industry, employing millions of people. This collection assesses the history and meanings of fashion; evaluates its expressions in politics, business, law, pop culture, the arts, consumer culture, and social media; determines its effect on gender, sexuality, class, race, age, nation and other sources of identity; and explores future directions and trends in the study and creation of fashion. Its contributors offer a broad range of disciplinary perspectives on fashion practice and methodology, extending from anthropology and sociology to history, art history and studies in material culture.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Fashion: Exploring Critical Issues
Barbara Brownie, Laura Petican and Johannes Reponen
Part 1: Modelling Fashion
Pandora in the Box: Travelling around the World in the Name of Fashion
Lydia Maria Taylor
The Subliminal Code of Fashion Cracked: The Self-Possessed Pre-Raphaelite ‘Stunner’
Yildiz Tuncer Kilic
Representing Twiggy in 1967: Twiggy as a New Icon
Betsy Thomas
Part 2: Staging Fashion
Shared Garments and Forced Choreography
Barbara Brownie and Caroline Stevenson
Constructing the Visual Self: Dressing for Occasions
Renata Strashnaya
Aristophanes/Hadjidakis’ The Birds (Ornithes): Two Costume Case Studies
Sofia Pantouvaki
Part 3: Identifying Fashion
Body Art: Yoruba Women’s Tattoo Fashion and Memories
Evelyn Omotunde Adepeko
Where Have All the Flowers Gone? Unisex Hair Salon Form and Function
Donna Louise Bevan
Han-Centric Dress: Fashion Subculture or a National Identity for China?
Linda T. Lee
Interwoven: Identity and Dress amongst Sedentary and Nomadic Peoples of the Arabian Peninsula
Thomas Roche and Erin Roche
Metamodernism in Fashion and Style Practice: Authorship and the Consumer
Julianne Pederson
Part 4: Locating Fashion
Montreal, City of Fashion: Comparison of the Perceptions, the Visions and the Expectations of the Fashion Designers with Those of the Local Consumers
Michèle Beaudoin and Manon Arcand
Modes of the Metropolis: The City as Photography’s Fashion Icon
Jess Berry
In Fashion: Venues for Sybaritic Parades in Italy and Beyond
Annette Condello
The Colombia’s Sub-Culture of Mexico
Amanda Watkins
Emplaced/Displaced Dress: Diasporan Dress amongst South Asian Immigrants in West Virginia
Mario J. Roman and Charlotte Jirousek
À la Mode? Fashion Design Protection in Canada
B. Courtney Doagoo
Fashion Nation: Contemporary Italian Art and the Baroque-Centric Language of Fashion
Laura Petican
Part 5: Accessorising Fashion
Marlies Dekkers: Lingerie Epitomising Post-Feminist Identity
Daniëlle Bruggeman
Intimate Paradoxes of Victorian Lingerie: The Cases of George Sand and Amelia Bloomer
Dinu Gabriel Munteanu
All Tied Up: The Cravat and the Evolution of Men’s Fashion in Nineteenth-Century France
Leonard R. Koos
Enid Collins Handbags: Branding, Nostalgia and the Power of the Purse
Jacque Lynn Foltyn
Footwear: Transcending the Mind-Body Dualism in Fashion Theory
Alexandra Sherlock
Fashion as System or Action Net in ‘Fashion in All Things’: A Case in Colour Design of Mobile Phones
Yanqing Zhang and Oskar Juhlin
Part 6: Experiencing Fashion
Fitting in When You Are Different: Work-Based Dress and Asperger Syndrome
Linda Shearer
Sellers of Experience: The New Face of Fashion Retail
Marco Pedroni
The Evolution of the Retail Space: From Luxury Malls to Guerilla Stores: Tracing the Change of Fashion
Cecilia Winterhalter
Going beyond the Obvious: Engaging Fashion Design and Fashion Communication Students in Reflection and Self-Motivated Investigation
Claire Allen and Claire Evans
Fashion is a statement, a stylised form of expression, which displays and begins to define a person, a place, a class, a time, a religion, a culture, subcultures, and even a nation. It speaks through form and varying degrees of function to identify both its creators and its wearers in a localised time, place and demographic. Its language is at once specific and universal, implicating its producers and consumers in a global exchange of evolving modes of identity and communication. Its materiality reflects innovation in craft and technology while appealing to an essential human response to texture and sense. Its reach extends from the street to the annals of academia and it persists as a fundamental cornerstone of everyday life and cultural expression. This collection of inter-disciplinary and trans-disciplinary chapters explores the historical, social, economic, political, psychological and artistic phenomenon of fashion, a powerful component of contemporary culture. Fashion lies at the very heart of persons, their sense of identity and the communities in which they live. Individuals emerge as icons of beauty and style; cities are identified as centres of fashion; the business of fashion is a billion dollar global industry, employing millions of people. This collection assesses the history and meanings of fashion; evaluates its expressions in politics, business, law, pop culture, the arts, consumer culture, and social media; determines its effect on gender, sexuality, class, race, age, nation and other sources of identity; and explores future directions and trends in the study and creation of fashion. Its contributors offer a broad range of disciplinary perspectives on fashion practice and methodology, extending from anthropology and sociology to history, art history and studies in material culture.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Fashion: Exploring Critical Issues
Barbara Brownie, Laura Petican and Johannes Reponen
Part 1: Modelling Fashion
Pandora in the Box: Travelling around the World in the Name of Fashion
Lydia Maria Taylor
The Subliminal Code of Fashion Cracked: The Self-Possessed Pre-Raphaelite ‘Stunner’
Yildiz Tuncer Kilic
Representing Twiggy in 1967: Twiggy as a New Icon
Betsy Thomas
Part 2: Staging Fashion
Shared Garments and Forced Choreography
Barbara Brownie and Caroline Stevenson
Constructing the Visual Self: Dressing for Occasions
Renata Strashnaya
Aristophanes/Hadjidakis’ The Birds (Ornithes): Two Costume Case Studies
Sofia Pantouvaki
Part 3: Identifying Fashion
Body Art: Yoruba Women’s Tattoo Fashion and Memories
Evelyn Omotunde Adepeko
Where Have All the Flowers Gone? Unisex Hair Salon Form and Function
Donna Louise Bevan
Han-Centric Dress: Fashion Subculture or a National Identity for China?
Linda T. Lee
Interwoven: Identity and Dress amongst Sedentary and Nomadic Peoples of the Arabian Peninsula
Thomas Roche and Erin Roche
Metamodernism in Fashion and Style Practice: Authorship and the Consumer
Julianne Pederson
Part 4: Locating Fashion
Montreal, City of Fashion: Comparison of the Perceptions, the Visions and the Expectations of the Fashion Designers with Those of the Local Consumers
Michèle Beaudoin and Manon Arcand
Modes of the Metropolis: The City as Photography’s Fashion Icon
Jess Berry
In Fashion: Venues for Sybaritic Parades in Italy and Beyond
Annette Condello
The Colombia’s Sub-Culture of Mexico
Amanda Watkins
Emplaced/Displaced Dress: Diasporan Dress amongst South Asian Immigrants in West Virginia
Mario J. Roman and Charlotte Jirousek
À la Mode? Fashion Design Protection in Canada
B. Courtney Doagoo
Fashion Nation: Contemporary Italian Art and the Baroque-Centric Language of Fashion
Laura Petican
Part 5: Accessorising Fashion
Marlies Dekkers: Lingerie Epitomising Post-Feminist Identity
Daniëlle Bruggeman
Intimate Paradoxes of Victorian Lingerie: The Cases of George Sand and Amelia Bloomer
Dinu Gabriel Munteanu
All Tied Up: The Cravat and the Evolution of Men’s Fashion in Nineteenth-Century France
Leonard R. Koos
Enid Collins Handbags: Branding, Nostalgia and the Power of the Purse
Jacque Lynn Foltyn
Footwear: Transcending the Mind-Body Dualism in Fashion Theory
Alexandra Sherlock
Fashion as System or Action Net in ‘Fashion in All Things’: A Case in Colour Design of Mobile Phones
Yanqing Zhang and Oskar Juhlin
Part 6: Experiencing Fashion
Fitting in When You Are Different: Work-Based Dress and Asperger Syndrome
Linda Shearer
Sellers of Experience: The New Face of Fashion Retail
Marco Pedroni
The Evolution of the Retail Space: From Luxury Malls to Guerilla Stores: Tracing the Change of Fashion
Cecilia Winterhalter
Going beyond the Obvious: Engaging Fashion Design and Fashion Communication Students in Reflection and Self-Motivated Investigation
Claire Allen and Claire Evans
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