An account of the Greenland expedition undertaken by Bonnington and Knox-Johnston. Travelling in the famous wooden yacht "Suhaili", they pooled their mountaineering and sailing skills to navigate to, and then climb, the peaks of the uninhabited, ice-bound East Greenland coast.
Chris Bonington was educated at University College School, London and the Royal Military Academy at Sandhurst. He was commissioned in the Royal Tank Regiment in 1956. He spent three years in North Germany in command of a troop of tanks and then two years at the Army Outward Bound School as a mountaineering instructor.It was during this period that he started climbing in the Alps, making the first British ascent of the South West Pillar of the Drus in 1958 and then the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney on the south side of Mont Blanc in 1961 with Don Whillans, Ian Clough and the Pole, Jan Dlugosz. At that time this was one of the most difficult climbs in the Alps and even today is considered one of the great classics of the Mont Blanc region.He made the first British ascent of the North Wall of the Eiger in 1962.
This was a serious adventure in a small yacht (that admitted, had circumnavigated the world) from England to Iceland and back with the goal to achieve a first ascent on an Iceland mountain. Probably the most remarkable/amazing things about this adventure given the difficulties and challenges were a) no injuries and b) no squabbles. Simply amazing.
Reading about two legends embarking on a trip like this makes you dream of doing something similar. The commentary alternates between Robin and Chris and I enjoyed their different perspectives… a climber on a boat, a sailor on a mountain… both out of their depth but positive and up for the challenge. Sailing for that period of time on a 32ft boat must have been a tight squeeze and manoeuvring between icebergs somewhat of a lottery. The actual climbing seemed all too brief, however it was an exploratory route and the vast, remote nature of eastern Greenland looked breathtaking. Their writing draws you in as you follow them over the 2 month trip and their easy going, adventurous spirit come across strongly. It’s a good read, enjoyable and inspiring in equal measure, though it's also a short volume and I would have welcomed more detail, more stories. Their adventure is a wholesome 5/5, however as a book this was a 3/5 for me.
This is how to have an adventure, two legends of exploration show that pulling together with a common goal you can have an epic journey. They had nothing to prove, just to make it happen, which maybe for a younger pair might have proved difficult.
This book was the inspiration that pushed me outdoors, got me sailing, ski-touring and ice climbing. Not to the same degree as these guys, but I have some great memories of fantastic experiences. It's easy to read books like this and think 'Lucky sods, I wish I could do that' but if you have a go, you never know who you'll meet and where it will lead.