A collection of meditative and startlingly insightful essays contemplate the relationship of man and his thoughts and civilization to the nature of water, blending scientific and literary references with descriptions of surfing and sailing.
Somewhat lyrical, oblique writing style. Chapters are really a bunch of short essays/thoughts, so good to read if you want to pick up a book for a few minutes. I found the most interesting chapter his evisceration of Theroux’s Pacific Islands book.
Aboslutely brilliant prose about everything sea. It is like the notebook of a surfer writing genius. Amazingly well documented and many relevant sources. Easy to read as chapters are short as waves.