Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills

by Craig Luebben

New in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert instruction for the beginning to intermediate rock climber by an internationally known guide. *Author is an American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) certified rock guide and instructor
*Learning exercises reinforce key skills
*Step-by-step technique illustrated in over 150 photos
Craig Luebben has taught rock climbing basics to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the U.S. Here he presents the most common foot positions, hand grips, and body positions and how to use them precisely, from the smear to the crimp to the twistlock. Going beyond static moves, he emphasizes a dynamic style of movement for the greatest climbing efficiency--a style that makes the most of your strength and your time on the rock. With an emphasis on safety and how to stay within your abilities, Luebben teaches how to evaluate potential hazards and then avoid them. Topics addressed risk management, face climbing, crack climbing, gear, knots, anchors, belaying, toproping, sport climbing, trad climbing, multi-pitch free climbs, rappelling, aid climbing, bouldering, training, and self-rescue.

Genres: Climbing, Reference, Outdoors, Nonfiction, Rock Climbing, Sports, Mountaineering

224 pages, Paperback

First published March 1, 2004

Reviews

[Juuso Karttunen · Rating 3 out of 5]

Basics for outdoor rock climbing

Good information, eventhough would be better if pictures would be with coulour. It is hard to understand complicated rope systems from black-white images. Some parts in the middle of the book is way too advanced for beginner rock climbers. I skipped those and will read them when I have more experience. But tons of good information for beginners as well!

[Kyle · Rating 4 out of 5]

Useful information

Lots to learn in here, and there is something for any skill level. The pictures for some of the knots could be a little more clear, but this is why you should also get professional training.

[Keegan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Decent

Decent info, but the pictures in this book were small, grainy, and hard to see. There are several books about this topic with much better images.

[Mike Parkes · Rating 4 out of 5]

Basic, broad overview of most aspects of rock climbing. Does not cover mountaineering at all.

[Paul Johannesen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Very informative if you are new to Trad

[Kenneth Miller · Rating 4 out of 5]

A useful, all around guide to indoor and outdoor climbing.

[Rob · Rating 4 out of 5]

As a relatively new climber (i.e., as of this writing, I've been climbing about 7 months), I found that this was a good introductory text to keep around. Granted, climbing is not something you really want to read-then-do; think of the reading as a good supplement to your training and climbing.

I enjoyed how Luebben dives right into the material; he keeps the introduction short and then goes immediately into the science and sport of rock climbing. He writes in a colloquial style that is easy to digest and presents the material in a way that makes it seem like a conversation. It's like it's you and him out on the rock, Luebben telling you everything he needs you to know.

While the book's focus is definitely on outdoor climbs, Luebben emphasizes techniques that should easily transfer to indoor rock gyms. Especially early in the text, Luebben writes a lot about body and foot position, how to approach routes and problems, and the mental elements of rock climbing. While these techniques are typically discussed in an outdoor context, the lessons all easily transfer to whatever surface you're climbing.

For a new, mostly indoor climber like myself, there seemed to be a lot of material in this book that either didn't apply to me or served merely to whet my appetite for outdoor routes. If you're looking for something specific to indoor climbing, you're probably better off exploring Matt Burbach's [title:Gym Climbing] book. Still, even a mostly-indoors beginner climber will find the chapters on body position, footwork and hand-holds, knots, belaying, and bouldering to be useful.

[Colin Price · Rating 3 out of 5]

I skipped the chapters on trad and big wall climbing (two things I don't feel even close to ready to tackle any time soon) but overall found this guide to be informative and well written (despite the frequent use of the word "bomber"). The hard part, and granted, I knew this going into the book, is really in translating written directions and pictures into important skills like knot tying and self rescue. These are no doubt best learned through hands-on training, but a guide like this is a good primer.

[javier · Rating 5 out of 5]

I found that this was a great reference book. Clearly this book should not be the only source of knowledge when attempting to climb (safety classes etc are recommended). But I found that this book helped me gain confidence in what I knew versus what is considered to be good practice.

For me, the highlights of the book included covering basic knots and use cases for them; rope care; the basics of placing protection for trad climbing; and rappelling.

[James Mayfield · Rating 4 out of 5]

Being somewhat new to rock climbing, but climbing with more experienced climbers this book helped me understand better what my friend would tell me to do and show me to do. It is also a good book to double check all of the knots and safety systems that I have been taught to make sure they are being used properly and to change anything that we or I might be doing wrong. Reading this book makes me want to go out and challenge myself on some tougher multi-pitch climbs.

[Ryan · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is a nice overview of different rock climbing styles. Since multipitch trad climbing is more complicated in its techniques and gear, almost half the book is written on that topic. But its still good to see the principles of safe anchors and self rescue, even if they won't be used in casual bouldering or sport climbing.

[Christine · Rating 5 out of 5]

good book for the novice/intermediate climber. makes a good reference book too.

[Karina · Rating 1 out of 5]

Not super helpful...but climbing is one of those things you learn by doing, not by reading about it! I do like the section about rope management and knots.

[Tom · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great book. A must have for any climber