Paulina's Reviews > The Man Who Ate Everything

The Man Who Ate Everything by Jeffrey Steingarten
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's review
Feb 14, 2009

really liked it
Read in January, 2009

Another hastily written report:
This book is a collection of essays from the late 80s to early 90s by Jeffrey Steingarten, acclaimed food critic to Vogue magazine.
The title is no exaggeration: each essay details not simply a foray, but a deep involvement in countless different foods and cuisines. Steingarten’s exhaustive research and personal culinary experiments totally excuse the rumors of his unbelievable in-person pretension and the growing size of his paunch. Occasionally my eyes gloss over at the level of scientific detail he uses to describe processes such as retrogradation, but he always quickly brings it back to the heart of the matter: deliciousness.
After every essay I read, I feel a gnawing sense of terrible food deficiency. I must now go to Italy, and eat hand-cut tagliarini with paper-thin slices of white truffles! I must fly to Japan for some authentic wagyu! The soft American bread I am eating is inherently inferior, an embarrassment to the bread kingdom! And so forth. I think this is the mark of a good food writer, and if anyone deserves the title, it is this man.

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