“It was almost winter solstice when I arrived. That’s when the earth is furthest from the sun. Machaj Mara, the New Year. The locals believe that on that morning, the first rays of sunlight are a rebirth, connecting the universe to their hearts. That day I went to the ancient city of Tiwanaku, stood in the cold with a crowd of strangers, holding my hands in the air. And I could feel it. I tell you I could feel it come through me.”