When there was food to be had during my reporting for this book, it was often an adventure. At home, I’m a vegetarian. When I travel, I eat what’s put in front of me. To say no to an offer of food would have been as socially appropriate as spitting indoors. “Sea bug soup,” raw squid on rice, the aggressively pungent durian—some of what was served took fast chewing, closed eyes, and ample chasers.
