I say farewell to Europe not only because I am leaving, but I fear we are all saying farewell to Europe as we knew and loved her these past centuries. Florence is so overwhelmed with refuse and stench that even early in the morning the city feels dirty and chaotic. (This had already started back when our poet Aleksandr Blok lived here: “Your cars are rattling with rust / Hideous your house and home / From all over Europe comes sallow dust / You betrayed yourself, you alone!”)

