To be fair, in certain respects Burgundy is a much simpler region than others. With a few exceptions, Burgundy’s white wines are made from Chardonnay and its reds from Gamay or Pinot Noir, a fussy weakling of a grape that’s far more delicate and disease-prone than its happy-go-lucky cousin Cabernet Sauvignon. But that is where Burgundy’s simplicity ends.

