She wanted to look like Marlene Dietrich in one of her sparkly soufflé gowns, but sexier, edgier, more risqué. And so Dietrich, the one-time lover of Old Joe and Jack himself, sent Marilyn to her designer, the great French costumer Jean Louis. For Marilyn, he conceived a gossamer flesh-toned dress glittering with thousands of hand-sewn rhinestones, so figure-hugging that it had to be sewn onto her body, so tight that she couldn’t wear undergarments.

