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Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance

4.22  ·  Rating details ·  495 ratings  ·  24 reviews
A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, "The Self-Coached Climber" offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain ho ...more
Paperback, 228 pages
Published February 28th 2006 by Stackpole Books
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May 28, 2009 rated it it was amazing
This is a must-read for any rock climber desiring to advance his/her climbing skills. The author lays out a program that builds on basic (yet necessary) skills and introduces concepts that many climbers may not have ever thought about. Although I have not yet practiced the skills in a deliberate fashion, just having read the book has given my climbing a boost. The stuff about body positioning, using the legs to begin movement, and controlling the center of gravity is very useful. I would have li ...more
Dec 08, 2014 rated it it was amazing
Awesome book. Just reading gives you +0.5 grade (if you are below 5.11+). Reading attentively gives +1. And, finally, if you really understood some bits - it will boost you up to +1.5. %)
Peter House
Nov 11, 2017 rated it it was amazing
The Self-Coached Climber is a thorough and extensive book with a rich variety of practical exercises and drills for climbers. In addition, the authors include facts and reference peer-reviewed studies as they progress through each chapter. This raised my confidence that what was being shared wasn’t hearsay or purposive but rather, the extensively studied and confirmed in the field. And if the authors broached a topic on the edge of our understanding, such as the utility of campus boards and syst ...more
Jan 29, 2020 rated it it was amazing
Shelves: a-very-good
This book was recommended by a climbing friend, and I can see why. Coming from a dance-heavy background, the balance-based approach the authors take is easy to follow and understand, and is encouraging for new climbers who have minimal upper body strength. I'll be implementing at least most of the exercises as soon as I can! ...more
May 02, 2020 rated it liked it
No mention of any crack climbing technique in the entire book. 3 *'s because of the mental advice and training/pyramids and exercises. Still would not recommend to any but the most novice. ...more
Rasoul Emadi
May 25, 2018 rated it liked it
too hard
Jan 20, 2018 rated it it was amazing
Essential guide to self improvement
Angela Corcoran
Feb 21, 2017 rated it it was amazing
the exercises really helped me become a more mindful and motivated climber.
Aug 10, 2013 rated it really liked it  ·  review of another edition
Like most technique and training books, the worth is in the utility of the exercises and how effective they are. This book presents a model of climbing movement that is both technical in it's treatment of physiology and practical in a relatively simple model of balance and efficiency of motion.

First the author describes what he considers the main components of climbing, beginning from the simple concepts of balance, force, space, and time. From this beginning he increasingly becomes more specifi
Rory Armstrong
Oct 15, 2013 rated it it was amazing
A really good training book. I've read Dave Mcleod's 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes which is also good. However, it is more a book for someone who's in a rut and needs motivation. This book however excels at giving pratical advise on how a climber can improve there training. This is done through more than 30 activities that focus on all aspects of training from movement skills, endurance (both anerobic and aerobic), strength, and power. The authors also offer a method of constructin ...more
Jake McCrary
Jan 03, 2013 rated it it was amazing
Shelves: non-tech, read_2013
This book is full of great training advice. The book contains various drills to improve all facets of your climbing; movement, footwork, mental, emotional, anaerobic and aerobic systems. With training frequency suggestions and suggested schedules this book tells you everything you'd need to know to improve your climbing technique.

I'm hoping to take some of what this book suggests and apply it to the time I'm able to spend climbing. I'll also be paying more attention and recording how I feel whil
Feb 20, 2015 rated it it was amazing
I rate this book 5 stars not for myself, but for others. In my opinion, if you are only going to read a single book on training for climbing, this is the one you should read. Hague and Hunter clearly explain the physiological principles of movement; balance; and strength, power, and endurance. They then layout specific exercises that will help you improve those skills. They even delve into mental training and developing a holistic training program. There are more specialized books which explain ...more
Jan 11, 2016 rated it it was amazing
Just like the title says: "Self-coached climber". If you're a climber who wants to improve his climbing game, yet have no-one to tech you how to actually climb better (yes climbing gyms are full of jerks), then this book is for you.

It has everything from explaining every climbing move, describing the situation when to use them, and drills to make those moves your second nature.
Then it steps up a notch teaching you how to send harder routes, and then gives you training program depending on the
Grzesiek Gorzkiewicz
May 15, 2015 rated it it was amazing
Mój pierwszy poradnik wspinaczkowy. Wydaje się dosyć kompleksowy, jest mowa i o technice, i o sile, i o głowie. Mam tylko wrażenie, że dużo podstaw już mnie nie dotyczy, a wiele pięknych planów treningowych jest nierobialnych przez gościa który nie może poświęcić 4 godzin 4 razy w tygodniu. Mimo to i tak fajnie pomaga zrozumieć swoje braki i czuję że po powrocie w lutym uda mi sie zbudować ładny plan na kilka rodzajów wytrzymałości. Napewno będę wracał do tej ksiażki. No i muszę przemyśleć swoje ...more
Jul 08, 2012 rated it it was amazing
If you're even remotely serious about climbing you should get it. It has tons of practical and detailed technical information. One review I read here said that it's hard to read for pleasure because it's so technical and it's exactly right but it serves as a fantastic reference. ...more
Sep 10, 2013 rated it it was amazing
Shelves: body-knowledge
enlightening perspective and approach to rock climbing that emphasizes balance, movement, and initiation centers. after climbing for 1.5 years, this is the perfect read. everything makes sense, a good deal has yet to be learned or perfected, and bad habits can be (hopefully) ironed out.
Aug 29, 2016 rated it really liked it
Shelves: climbing
Best book I've read when it comes to technique. Lots of great exercises and some good input for your training. However, if you are looking for strength training, power training and/or training programs I would look elsewhere. ...more
Aleksey Polukeyev
Jun 26, 2014 rated it it was amazing
The book has proven itself to be very useful in understanding the trajectory of learning involved in climbing. The text supports being mindful with your body and the way you should apply it.
Kenneth Miller
Oct 27, 2016 rated it liked it
Has some useful information, a god complement to having a real coach for at least a handful of sessions.
Jun 15, 2007 added it  ·  review of another edition
Recommends it for: climbers
Shelves: half-read
It's almost like a textbook on the physiology and psychology behind climbing...good for climbers who want to take it to the next level. ...more
Sam Beal
Jan 27, 2016 rated it liked it
I was able to cherry-pick some advice I felt applied to me. Really enjoyed the sections on Balance, and the science behind ATP and ADP.
Jan 26, 2016 rated it it was amazing
Shelves: sports
This is the perfect book for folks who want to mindfully get to the next levels in climbing through dedicated and intentional practice.
Mar 24, 2014 rated it it was amazing
The best climbing book I've come across. Really good exercises to try out and techniques to keep in mind when in the gym or at the crag. Constantly referencing it. ...more
Jun 19, 2012 rated it liked it
Good book, but kind of tough to read for pleasure because it's so technical...It does have good training and overall climbing tips... ...more
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Neill Tumulac
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Apr 05, 2011
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Jan 16, 2018
Etienne Moreau
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Jan 01, 2019
Tom Oakin
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Jul 20, 2015
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