To many foreigners, Colombia is a nightmare of drugs and violence. Yet normal life goes on there, and, in Bogotá, it's even possible to forget that war still ravages the countryside. This paradox of perceptions—outsiders' fears versus insiders' realities—drew June Carolyn Erlick back to Bogotá for a year's stay in 2005. She wanted to understand how the city she first came to love in 1975 has made such strides toward building a peaceful civil society in the midst of ongoing violence. The complex reality she found comes to life in this compelling memoir. Erlick creates her portrait of Bogotá through a series of vivid vignettes that cover many aspects of city life. As an experienced journalist, she lets the things she observes lead her to larger conclusions. The courtesy of people on buses, the absence of packs of stray dogs and street trash, and the willingness of strangers to help her cross an overpass when vertigo overwhelms her all become signs of convivencia —the desire of Bogotanos to live together in harmony despite decades of war. But as Erlick settles further into city life, she finds that "war in the city is invisible, but constantly present in subtle ways, almost like the constant mist that used to drip down from the Bogotá skies so many years ago." Shattering stereotypes with its lively reporting, A Gringa in Bogotá is must-reading for going beyond the headlines about the drug war and bloody conflict.
It´s hard for me to argue with this author because she has been in Bogota longer, and more recently, than I have or ever plan to be. Much of what she says rings true and she contextualizes events, people, places within a broader landscape of politics, economics and history than I would know. So it´s quite good and worthwhile in that sense. On the other hand, she both romanticizes the Colombian people - they work so hard, they're so nice to her - and insists on pursuing an "invisible war" as a topic that only seems to come up when she mentions it. I will argue with many things she says here, but then I will send copies in Spanish to my relatives in Bogotá to see what they think.
As someone who knows what it's like to fall in love with a city despite its flaws, I absolutely loved this book. Erlick 's comparison of all the facets of life in Colombia thirty years ago to the present was thoughtful, openminded and entertaining. I'm confident others who aren't Latin Americanists or Colombia -philes like me would enjoy it as well. I will say I appreciated Erlick's multisided perspective on the conflict that continues to rage in many parts of the country.
Stories are well told. It focuses on Bogota, a fascinating and often misunderstood city, but touches many other regions of Colombia. Many of the stories are connected to the conflict, which I didn't quite expect. Highly recommended for anyone interested in Colombia or South America.
Not magical realism - more like touring with a down to earth friend who's discovering the place and trying to learn what it's really like to live there. Gave it to an expat Colombian who was encouraged that she got past American headlines and noticed changes happening.