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9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes
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9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes

4.02  ·  Rating details ·  627 ratings  ·  62 reviews
9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes - navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber 9 out of 10 climbers are stuck. They are stuck on the same things. Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation, managing time, and not being able to analyse and correct ...more
Paperback, 176 pages
Published November 25th 2009 by Rare Breed Productions (first published 2009)
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There are no favourable conditions like good sponsorship or talent that are even nearly big enough to replace hard work across years. The famous athletes are there because they said "Another try!" instead of, "Time to go home, I'm tired!" and they did this week in week out for a couple of decades.

I've been climbing for almost a year now, and when I look back on my improvement and growth, one event always sticks out to me. One session, a new instructor put me on a route multiple grade
Jul 08, 2013 rated it it was ok
Not a fan.

I was recommended this book to help me work through some of my anxiety and fear when climbing. I found the chapter on that topic to be completely useless. His advice is incredibly generic, mostly focused on his own personal experience, and really seems to only apply to a specific type of climber. I couldn't really relate to any of the things he was saying about "most" climbers. I guess I'm the 1 out of 10 climbers who doesn't apply to this book.

In terms of writing... ug. His writing st
Io Nuca
Dec 14, 2018 rated it really liked it
It really puts things into perspective.
Bastiaan Terhorst
Jul 29, 2014 rated it really liked it
While the prose may leave something to be desired -- as other reviewers have pointed out -- the advice in this book is solid. And frankly, I feel that for a sport that offers little in the way of cristallized and proven training methods, any effort in that direction should be welcomed. Personally, I skipped some sections where I felt the author was repeating himself a tad too often, and skimmed sections where he strayed off-topic, but I also thoroughly enjoyed the sections that offered creative, ...more
Jul 16, 2011 rated it it was ok
I cannot fathom why this book is cited as being so important. Although many good points are brought up, I feel that MacLeod simply spouts platitudes. I find Self-Coached Climber and Training for Climbing to accomplish the same thing MacLeod set out to do, but in a more focused manner. At any rate, I don't see it being worth the 20 dollar price tag...
Sean Goh
Jan 27, 2019 rated it liked it
Shelves: pers-dev
Difficult to parse due to little meaningful organisation. Contains thought-provoking content like suck it up and work on your weaknesses, and be kind to yourself. Climb smart, keep at it, short term pain for long-term gains.
The rest is details.

It's crucial to think through how others see your climbing, and the effect of your expectations of yourself. Climbers often have unrealistic expectations of themselves, for example to be able to
reproduce previous highpoints of performance after a layof
Jan 12, 2019 rated it liked it
I did not finished this book yet, but I am not sure I will as I think it is not targeted towards me.

I think this book is intended to young (in age and experience) climbers who decide that climbing will be their life or a big part of it and make some results in competitions. I think that for this purpose, this is a very good book that will help them make some progress and get the right mindset. If you want to be the best at climbing, so push yourself.

For the average climber, who likes to have fun
Ed Oakley
Sep 30, 2018 rated it it was amazing
Shelves: climbing
Simply put; this book made me climb harder. I was a solid member of the 9/10'ths and now, although I mostly still live there, I occasionally implement a good habit into training which allows me to dip into the 1/10 for enough time to see improvement.

This book should be read as slowly as possible. Chapter 1 >>> Digest >>> Apply >>> Re-read >>> Solidify new habit >>> Chapter 2 >>> etc.

Let the book work its magic. If somethings hard to accept its probably because that thing is what will improve yo
Jan 15, 2020 rated it really liked it
The book provides more questions than answers, but I don't think it's a bad thing. I would say it's more of an overview of various aspects of training for climbing and more broadly thinking about climbing that one might want to investigate. Furthermore, it presents the author's rather interesting approach to handling all of that. Perhaps one criticism I would leverage is that a little too much of the discussion on outlook and technique is replicated in Make or Break, so if you only want to read ...more
May 06, 2018 rated it liked it
Broad advice about changes to climbing training mindset that can help climbing performance. This book is written for climbers with a lot of experience (he often talks in terms of years and decades). As a beginner, it was helpful to think about my mindset but I would have liked more concrete advice about, for example, the various aspects of climbing that I need to consider and how to train them.
Деян Милчев
Nov 20, 2020 rated it it was amazing
I made the goal to re-read every 6 months. My 4th time now. It's amazing how improving as a climber makes you appreciate different parts of the book. Seeing the biggest takeaways in your climbing and working on them, first starts with recognition and changing of your philosophy of climbing and this book is great to provoke the necessary thoughts for this to happen.
Peter House
Jul 10, 2017 rated it really liked it
This book is another great recommendation from a friend. A lot of myths and assumptions were dispelled for me in this book. And beyond that, lots of great ideas were shared as I continue this journey. I highly recommend this book.
Jul 07, 2019 rated it liked it
Shelves: tradeback, 2019
3.5/5 - Not a lot that was really new or surprising for me, but supports a lot of what I previously had read, and has a lot of generally good advice if you aren’t already somewhat into athletic performance.
Dec 31, 2019 rated it it was amazing
Shelves: climbing
Dave MacLeod is a famous climber and this book is really well done. Sure a lot of the parts are similar to what you read on the internet, but Dave has this ability to really get to the important points and explain what has worked for him and why in a concise way.
Teitur Helgason
Jul 31, 2020 rated it liked it
It is a quick read and there is some good advice in there but it lacks focus and good structure. It for example seems to be intended for climbers of all skill levels and in any form of climbing but then it spends a lot of time talking about topics that feel very niche to me.
Jun 16, 2017 rated it liked it
Bit too hard core - quit your job and your life and devote everything to climbing if you want to be the best.
Nov 18, 2017 rated it liked it
I think this is a wonderful base for improvement. It's just really hardto read.
Kayla Hendrickson
Mar 07, 2019 rated it it was amazing
Read it. Send it.
Apr 17, 2019 rated it really liked it
It's alright
Jenny Schauroth
Jul 13, 2019 rated it it was amazing
I've learnt so much about various aspects of climbing. Highly recommended!
Amélie Brouillard
Sep 28, 2019 rated it liked it
he's got a point. now i have to go through it again in order to come up with my own training plan. this is for serious climbers.
Alex Hermansson
Sep 29, 2019 rated it it was amazing
An essential read for every ambitious climber. I've learned new things every time I reread it!
Jan 04, 2020 rated it really liked it
Great book but the author needs a little more editing to make the book flow better.
Feb 15, 2020 rated it it was amazing
This book definitely changed the way I think about my climbing training and made me to climb more.
Jose Antunes
May 02, 2020 rated it really liked it
Great book go increase your sense of awareness over climbing training.
Yaqing Li
Jun 01, 2020 rated it liked it
Don't read if you are looking for answers.
Aug 02, 2020 rated it it was amazing
A lot of solid information. Will require a second read with a highlighter. Lots of wisdom on mental and physical elements of climbing and the pitfalls that people make/ intentionally take.
Aug 24, 2020 rated it it was ok
Pretty generic but good for those who are new to the sport.
Sébastien Cyrenne-Bergeron
Really obvious message
Keith Button
Aug 25, 2020 rated it really liked it
This reads kind of like an extended blog post more than a book but I found a lot of value in it. In all likelihood, it will highlight a blindspot in your climbing identity that will make you say "holy shit, I can't believe I've been doing this for XX years." It won't provide any "quick fixes" to your deficiencies but will help you layout a long-term pathway to becoming a better, more balanced, climber.
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