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9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes

3.98  ·  Rating details ·  477 ratings  ·  49 reviews
9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes - navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber 9 out of 10 climbers are stuck. They are stuck on the same things. Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation, managing time, and not being able to analyse and correct ...more
Paperback, 176 pages
Published November 25th 2009 by Rare Breed Productions (first published 2009)
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Average rating 3.98  · 
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 ·  477 ratings  ·  49 reviews


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Daisy
There are no favourable conditions like good sponsorship or talent that are even nearly big enough to replace hard work across years. The famous athletes are there because they said "Another try!" instead of, "Time to go home, I'm tired!" and they did this week in week out for a couple of decades.

I've been climbing for almost a year now, and when I look back on my improvement and growth, one event always sticks out to me. One session, a new instructor put me on a route multiple grades above the ones
...more
Sara
Jul 08, 2013 rated it it was ok
Not a fan.

I was recommended this book to help me work through some of my anxiety and fear when climbing. I found the chapter on that topic to be completely useless. His advice is incredibly generic, mostly focused on his own personal experience, and really seems to only apply to a specific type of climber. I couldn't really relate to any of the things he was saying about "most" climbers. I guess I'm the 1 out of 10 climbers who doesn't apply to this book.

In terms of writi
...more
Io Nuca
Dec 14, 2018 rated it really liked it
It really puts things into perspective.
Bastiaan Terhorst
Jul 29, 2014 rated it really liked it
While the prose may leave something to be desired -- as other reviewers have pointed out -- the advice in this book is solid. And frankly, I feel that for a sport that offers little in the way of cristallized and proven training methods, any effort in that direction should be welcomed. Personally, I skipped some sections where I felt the author was repeating himself a tad too often, and skimmed sections where he strayed off-topic, but I also thoroughly enjoyed the sections that offered creative, ...more
Tomek
Jul 16, 2011 rated it it was ok
I cannot fathom why this book is cited as being so important. Although many good points are brought up, I feel that MacLeod simply spouts platitudes. I find Self-Coached Climber and Training for Climbing to accomplish the same thing MacLeod set out to do, but in a more focused manner. At any rate, I don't see it being worth the 20 dollar price tag...
Sean Goh
Jan 27, 2019 rated it liked it
Shelves: pers-dev
Difficult to parse due to little meaningful organisation. Contains thought-provoking content like suck it up and work on your weaknesses, and be kind to yourself. Climb smart, keep at it, short term pain for long-term gains.
The rest is details.

___
It's crucial to think through how others see your climbing, and the effect of your expectations of yourself. Climbers often have unrealistic expectations of themselves, for example to be able to
reproduce previous highpoints of p
...more
Geoffroy
Jan 12, 2019 rated it liked it
I did not finished this book yet, but I am not sure I will as I think it is not targeted towards me.

I think this book is intended to young (in age and experience) climbers who decide that climbing will be their life or a big part of it and make some results in competitions. I think that for this purpose, this is a very good book that will help them make some progress and get the right mindset. If you want to be the best at climbing, so push yourself.

For the average climbe
...more
Ed Oakley
Sep 30, 2018 rated it it was amazing
Shelves: climbing
Simply put; this book made me climb harder. I was a solid member of the 9/10'ths and now, although I mostly still live there, I occasionally implement a good habit into training which allows me to dip into the 1/10 for enough time to see improvement.

This book should be read as slowly as possible. Chapter 1 >>> Digest >>> Apply >>> Re-read >>> Solidify new habit >>> Chapter 2 >>> etc.

Let the book work its magic. If somethings hard
...more
Cassandra
May 06, 2018 rated it liked it
Broad advice about changes to climbing training mindset that can help climbing performance. This book is written for climbers with a lot of experience (he often talks in terms of years and decades). As a beginner, it was helpful to think about my mindset but I would have liked more concrete advice about, for example, the various aspects of climbing that I need to consider and how to train them.
Alpha
Jul 07, 2019 rated it liked it
Shelves: 2019, tradeback
3.5/5 - Not a lot that was really new or surprising for me, but supports a lot of what I previously had read, and has a lot of generally good advice if you aren’t already somewhat into athletic performance.
Peter House
Jul 10, 2017 rated it really liked it
This book is another great recommendation from a friend. A lot of myths and assumptions were dispelled for me in this book. And beyond that, lots of great ideas were shared as I continue this journey. I highly recommend this book.
Lukas
Nov 17, 2019 rated it it was amazing
A must-read book for every climber. MacLeod knows what he‘s talking about and hammers it home clearly and honestly.

I am going to do some fall training now, if you‘ll excuse me.
Amélie Brouillard
Sep 28, 2019 rated it liked it
he's got a point. now i have to go through it again in order to come up with my own training plan. this is for serious climbers.
Gintaras
Apr 17, 2019 rated it really liked it
It's alright
Kayla Hendrickson
Mar 07, 2019 rated it it was amazing
Read it. Send it.
Keith
Jun 16, 2017 rated it liked it
Bit too hard core - quit your job and your life and devote everything to climbing if you want to be the best.
Jenny Schauroth
Jul 13, 2019 rated it it was amazing
I've learnt so much about various aspects of climbing. Highly recommended!
dredzik
Nov 18, 2017 rated it liked it
I think this is a wonderful base for improvement. It's just really hardto read.
Alex Hermansson
Sep 29, 2019 rated it it was amazing
An essential read for every ambitious climber. I've learned new things every time I reread it!
Den Tserkovnyi
Jun 23, 2015 rated it it was amazing
Shelves: climbing
I don't like self-help books, but I enjoyed this one.
I made almost all mistakes mentioned in this book and some of them were never corrected. So it was very easy to relate to the described situations and issues.
The book is concise, fun and thought-provoking. It touches upon wide range of topics from understanding of the common fears to the advice on different climbing strategies and weight management. It is not a very detailed analysis of the each climbing issue and solution but rath
...more
Kiri
Apr 13, 2012 rated it it was amazing
Dave McLeod is first and foremost a climber, and secondarily a coach, teacher, writer. These facts make him uniquely qualified to write a book of this sort, sharing the knowledge he has gleaned from his years of climbing expertise. Not all climbers can be as analytical and self-aware as this, and it takes a certain kind of thoughtfulness to pick apart what holds some back from achieving their potential.

Even a weekend warrior like me can gain valuable lessons from Dave's fine book!
Tina
Mar 27, 2012 rated it it was amazing
Shelves: reviewed
I absolutely was one of the 9 climbers who make the mistakes described in this book. I had set my mind on performing and therefore only ever picked routes that I was pretty sure I could handle. Since I read this book I have not only improved my climbing as far as grades are concerned, with the new input I managed to take the pressure off and learn a lot of new moves and strategies.
I can understand the critical comments about the structure, but the content makes up for it.
Highly recom
...more
Irene
Mar 29, 2013 rated it really liked it
An easy-to-read conversational tone and tons of common (and less common) sense suggestions and ideas make this book feel like a good conversation with your gnarly expert rock climber uncle. He knows more about climbing than you and can explain exactly what good habits you should endeavor to make second nature. Typos and haphazard editing in this edition don't detract much from the positive impact the advice has already had on my approach to climbing.
Jake McCrary
Feb 26, 2013 rated it really liked it
Shelves: read_2013, non-tech
Pretty solid book that touched on a wide variety of climbing topics. Stated goal of the book was to make the reader take a step back and try to focus on the big picture instead of picking apart training details.

The book isn't detailed oriented and instead covers many topics. I'll probably reread certain chapters in the future. It is a short, quick read. Worth if it if you are interested in climbing.
Justus
Jun 05, 2012 rated it really liked it
Shelves: climbing
I'm most likely too new to climbing to give it a very useful review, but I liked the book a lot. Its main point is that the best/fastest way to progress in climbing is to work on the stuff you're not good at. Other than that he brings a good perspective about balancing life and climbing. Its a bit more meta than other climbing books, a small library which I have quickly developed, but I think it will be one that I will revisit regularly to remind myself of the bigger picture.
Jessica
May 05, 2014 rated it really liked it
Shelves: climbing, nonfiction
He seems to be correct-- all his ideas make sense. Fear of falling and tendency to practice what you're already good at are the 2 biggest problems he points out and they are weaknesses of mine. But I took a good lead fall this weekend and I will continue to work on it!
My main criticism is that it could use an editor (continuous misuse of it's vs. its is distracting to me). It's not gorgeous prose at all, but it's to the point.
Kate
Feb 06, 2010 rated it liked it
This book was packed with good information, and I learned a lot. It really forces you to consider embarrassing truths about your climbing, and hopefully come out better for it. Unfortunately, the book is messily organized, poorly edited, and a bit of a ramble. Some time adding summaries, tables, and more chapter organizaion would make this book 5 stars.
Brian
Dec 12, 2014 rated it liked it
As others have said, it could certainly have used a heavy-handed edit... Still, I read this book because I want to improve as a climber, and I've made several changes in my attitude and training plan that should accomplish that. I think the motivation/mindset/take-a-step-back message of this book will be more helpful to my climbing than other self-help climbing books focused on the details.
Alice Domenis
Feb 05, 2013 rated it really liked it
This book inspired me and really helped me in a number of things (train, do not perform; eat carbs after a climbing session; climb in front of a lot of people to get over embarrassment). What I didn't like of the book is the very poor editing; it definitely needed some more proofing before going into print (no graphic examples, no chapter structure and a few concepts repeated many times).
Ingo
May 16, 2018 rated it really liked it  ·  review of another edition
Great book to skim over and pick the sections you are interested in. Go out of your comfort zone. That was my take home message. Like it a lot, even if some sections had their lengths.
Note added 2 months later: So true ... a lot of what he writes ... :-)
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