Gentlemen of Bacongo

by Daniele Tamagni

This book provides a fascinating insight to the vibrant street style of the 'Sapeurs', the elegant and immaculately dressed dandies from the heart of the Congo. The Sapeurs today belong to 'La SAPE' (Societe des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Elegantes) - one of the world's most exclusive clubs. Members have their own code of honour, codes of professional conduct and strict notions of morality. It is a world within a world within a city. Designer brands of suits and accessories are important to sapeurs, and they work hard to save as much money as they can to dedicate to the most beautiful suits and accessories they can find. But their amazing style is also based on strict rules of elegance, beauty and harmony of colours. They dress to impress, whilst also being ambassadors of etiquette, peace and music, as well as the essence of style. The result is a unique and inspiring style, that has captured the imagination of people all over the world - the sapeurs are now truly the kings of elegance. The introduction is written by Paul Smith, one of the world's most renowned and influential menswear designers.

Genres: Nonfiction, Africa, Fashion, Photography, African Literature

224 pages, Hardcover

First published June 1, 2009

Reviews

[Sara · Rating 5 out of 5]

This colourful book takes you to the streets of Bacongo, a district area in Brazzaville where the elegant sapeurs show off their suits with style and a touch of extravagance. They belong to a very important club: The Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes (The society for the advancement of people of elegance) which now has among its adepts also a few women.

This movement started when in the 70’s the first Congolese people, who had migrated to Europe, came back to Congo with designer clothes. Many were fascinated with French fashion and started to emulate the French style, reinterpreting it according to their particular taste… The cult of elegance which has emerged from it appears in all his glory in the pages of this photographic book.

The sapeurs parade on the animated catwalks of the streets of Bacongo wearing kilts or pinstripe suits. They pose with unlighted cigars while children stare at them… with little markets and hanging clothes in the background. The contrast between the setting and the clothes of the sapeurs portrayed on this book will impress you for sure. What I loved most is how Davide Tamagni managed to capture this contrast without irony, but providing us a glimpse of the lives of the serious and proud sapeurs of Bacongo… they might appear frivolous like fashion can be, inspiring like art definitely is, funny like caricatures are but certanly worth to be admired in their multi-coloured outfits.

If you are interested in knowing more, I highly recommend also the chapter dedicated to “les sapeurs” on Michela Wrong’s “In The Footsteps of Mr. Kurtz”.

[ashok · Rating 4 out of 5]

I picked up this book in an airport bookshop. It provides a fascinating view into the Sapeur sub-culture in the Congo. In a time where most books about Africa / Africans tends to be about war and corruption -- makes this book all the more important, and a delightful read (in addition to some great photographs).

[Koonu · Rating 5 out of 5]

"The white man may have invented clothes, but we turned it into an art.” That about sums it up right there. This book is filled with vibrant and colorful men that pop out of the page to inject flair into their otherwise squalid surroundings. La Sape is a fascinating subculture and I can’t get enough of it.

[WORN Fashion Journal]

Le Societe des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Elegantes (The Society of Advancement of People of Elegance, or SAPE) is a hierarchical subculture founded in the Congo during the dats of French colonixation. Followers strive to recreate a historical French elegance by donning a rainbow of dandy-like designer suits, holding cigars, and maintaining a strong morality in keeping with the self-proclaimed Ten Commandments Of Les Sapeurs. Most of the books juxtaposes raw images of these polished men against the impoverished residents of the Brazzaville suburb of Bacongo. At first, this comparison left me uneasy and disturbed by the bundles spent on refinement and clothing while living in such destitution. However, after reading the accompanying text, I came to see that the lack of political context is not the point of the story. This subculture enlivens the community, providing an escape from dispiriting poverty. In the end though, Tamagni conveys a skeleton of facts about this fashionable cult, and leaves a lurking sense of a mystery to be further investigated. (reviewed by Avyn Omel)

[m_miriam · Rating 4 out of 5]

The little that we do hear about Africa is generally about some combination of violence, illness, and/or poaching, while this book profiles Sape culture (Society for the advancement of people of elegance), primarily in Bacongo, Congo. Aside from stunning portraits of a community that was totally unfamiliar and fascinating to me, it was wonderful for me read a story about a part of life in Africa that that relates to faith, ethics, and community, and which is also about a celebratory identity.

[Julianne Dunn · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is mostly a story told in photos, beautiful photos of men (and women) who dress elegantly in a society of chaos. Some of my favorite photos contrast these together. The book also highlights a few men and their motivations. It also details where the beginning of Sapre began and how it has evolved. It is just beautiful.

[Kate · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great, fullpage pictures. I wish there had been a little more text. I wanted to know more about each of the gentlemen profiled.

[Maureen · Rating 4 out of 5]

If I could write another thesis in Sociology, by goodness, this would be the topic.

[Nakia · Rating 3 out of 5]

Beautiful pictures. Needed a better translation and would have been better as a coffee table book. Very interesting information, though.

[Anthony A · Rating 1 out of 5]

Good