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Climbing Anchors
by
The comprehensive guide to anchoring systems for rock climbers.
Paperback, Second Edition, 240 pages
Published
September 1st 2006
by FalconGuides
(first published January 1st 1993)
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Community Reviews
(showing 1-30)
A really interesting guide to placing gear and building anchors.
I thought this was a pretty great book on climbing anchors. I should preface this review by saying I don't have on-the-rock experience with the subject matter nor have I done extensive research on the subject. At the time of reading this book my background in climbing has been limited to single pitch sport climbing and bouldering. I have never needed to setup an anchor or place a piece of gear.
This book starts with an introduction to to anchors and a brief history of rock hardware. The first fou ...more
This book starts with an introduction to to anchors and a brief history of rock hardware. The first fou ...more
Apr 29, 2010
Aron
rated it
really liked it
·
review of another edition
Recommends it for:
climbers
Shelves:
climbing
The point of this book is to teach the reader how to create safe, solid anchors for big wall (multi-pitch) routes, and it does a very good job of that. There's a lot of emphasis on making the primary anchor bomb-proof and multi-directional, because hey, your life actually DOES depend on it holding.
If you're looking to learn how to make or improve your anchors for single pitch routes (top-roping) like I was, this book is overkill. The chapters on knots and anchor dynamics were definitely useful, ...more
If you're looking to learn how to make or improve your anchors for single pitch routes (top-roping) like I was, this book is overkill. The chapters on knots and anchor dynamics were definitely useful, ...more
Classic book on anchors updater
I own all 3 editions. It gets better each time . The real research is crucial. We want to make choices hased on knowlege instead of gut feeling. I loved the concluding paragraphs in this edition. Really hits home if it see climbing as something that relates to your philosophical and even religious ties in the world.
I own all 3 editions. It gets better each time . The real research is crucial. We want to make choices hased on knowlege instead of gut feeling. I loved the concluding paragraphs in this edition. Really hits home if it see climbing as something that relates to your philosophical and even religious ties in the world.
I have heard that some dislike Long's writing style, but I quite enjoyed it. This book is concise and straightforward, which is critical when writing about technical climbing anchors and no miscommunication is permissible. Add in a touch of climbing humor and you've got a great guide. I haven't read Leubben's book on the subject, but have it on order to do a comparison.
I just finished this, the most recent edition of John Long's classic instruction manual, and it's great.
I'm eager to experiment with the equalette concept, as an alternative to the cordelette, as well as the Quad setup for two-bolt anchors.
I'm eager to experiment with the equalette concept, as an alternative to the cordelette, as well as the Quad setup for two-bolt anchors.
very informative. a must-read for anyone considering leading trad or doing any type of anchor setting where your life depends on your anchor building skills.
This is my second cover to cover read. The text is full of information to consume. I will likely need several more reads before I get familiar with it all. This is a great book.
Not only a primer of how to set protection, but also basic rock craft and safety. Good anchor analysis and comparisons.
Don't leave the ground without it... Stresses safety through a clear approach to the ERNEST fundamentals, and gives dozens of examples of proper and deadly anchors.
learned a ton. pretty thorough, definitely useful for newbies like Mr.
Clear, concise, and a must read for the beginner
Climber to a long time trad daddy. Great for anyone who needs some pointers or refreshing back to the basics.
Climber to a long time trad daddy. Great for anyone who needs some pointers or refreshing back to the basics.
The Bible.
Largo eyeballs your supposedly safe anchors, then rips you a new one.
No matter the skill level, there are tips in this book to make anyone a safer and more efficient climber. Well presented and easy to follow.
This book will save your life.
The Trad climber's primer.
Required reading for any climber. Setting decent anchors is far from intuitive even for experienced climbers, and this book helps a lot.
Great book to learn anchors (in my case for setting topropes). Now I can't wait to try the technique out on some real rock once my ankle break heals!
Must read for any climber. Excellent descriptions and illustrations.
This book will save your life.
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Librarian Note: There is more than one author in the Goodreads database with this name.
John Long is an American rock climber and author.
More about John Long
John Long is an American rock climber and author.
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