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Climbing Anchors
(How to climb series)
by
The comprehensive guide to anchoring systems for rock climbers.
Paperback, Second Edition, 240 pages
Published
September 1st 2006
by FalconGuides
(first published January 1st 1993)
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Start your review of Climbing Anchors

This is a fantastic book to get a hang of the techniques used for multipitch climbing. It covers the main topics in great detail and the included images help in clarifying the ideas explained. Personally, I have learnt a lot from it and it has been useful to solve most of the questions I had about protection placement and building and rigging belay anchor.
It is a great book to keep for reference and, a part from that, I also enjoyed the way it is written.
It is a great book to keep for reference and, a part from that, I also enjoyed the way it is written.

Excellent
An excellent read. Superb flowing, good humoured prose on a subject which should be dear to every climber. My only critique is that the human factors in anchor failures, while constantly alluded to and described was not deemed worthy of a chapter of its own. Excellent writing and I will be reading John Long again.
An excellent read. Superb flowing, good humoured prose on a subject which should be dear to every climber. My only critique is that the human factors in anchor failures, while constantly alluded to and described was not deemed worthy of a chapter of its own. Excellent writing and I will be reading John Long again.

Haven't died yet. There is a stipulation in my will that should I die in a climbing accident, one star be taken off my review.
...more

I thought this was a pretty great book on climbing anchors. I should preface this review by saying I don't have on-the-rock experience with the subject matter nor have I done extensive research on the subject. At the time of reading this book my background in climbing has been limited to single pitch sport climbing and bouldering. I have never needed to setup an anchor or place a piece of gear.
This book starts with an introduction to to anchors and a brief history of rock hardware. The first fou ...more
This book starts with an introduction to to anchors and a brief history of rock hardware. The first fou ...more

Apr 29, 2010
Aron
rated it
really liked it
·
review of another edition
Recommends it for:
climbers
Shelves:
climbing
The point of this book is to teach the reader how to create safe, solid anchors for big wall (multi-pitch) routes, and it does a very good job of that. There's a lot of emphasis on making the primary anchor bomb-proof and multi-directional, because hey, your life actually DOES depend on it holding.
If you're looking to learn how to make or improve your anchors for single pitch routes (top-roping) like I was, this book is overkill. The chapters on knots and anchor dynamics were definitely useful, ...more
If you're looking to learn how to make or improve your anchors for single pitch routes (top-roping) like I was, this book is overkill. The chapters on knots and anchor dynamics were definitely useful, ...more

I have heard that some dislike Long's writing style, but I quite enjoyed it. This book is concise and straightforward, which is critical when writing about technical climbing anchors and no miscommunication is permissible. Add in a touch of climbing humor and you've got a great guide. I haven't read Leubben's book on the subject, but have it on order to do a comparison.
...more

Classic book on anchors updater
I own all 3 editions. It gets better each time . The real research is crucial. We want to make choices hased on knowlege instead of gut feeling. I loved the concluding paragraphs in this edition. Really hits home if it see climbing as something that relates to your philosophical and even religious ties in the world.
I own all 3 editions. It gets better each time . The real research is crucial. We want to make choices hased on knowlege instead of gut feeling. I loved the concluding paragraphs in this edition. Really hits home if it see climbing as something that relates to your philosophical and even religious ties in the world.

I just finished this, the most recent edition of John Long's classic instruction manual, and it's great.
I'm eager to experiment with the equalette concept, as an alternative to the cordelette, as well as the Quad setup for two-bolt anchors. ...more
I'm eager to experiment with the equalette concept, as an alternative to the cordelette, as well as the Quad setup for two-bolt anchors. ...more

Don't leave the ground without it... Stresses safety through a clear approach to the ERNEST fundamentals, and gives dozens of examples of proper and deadly anchors.
...more

Great book to learn anchors (in my case for setting topropes). Now I can't wait to try the technique out on some real rock once my ankle break heals!
...more

The Trad climber's primer.
...more

Feb 24, 2018
Andrea
added it
The bible of anchor basics. part of the AMGA reading list for good reason.
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