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Climbing Anchors

(How to climb series)

4.34  ·  Rating details ·  340 ratings  ·  31 reviews
The comprehensive guide to anchoring systems for rock climbers.
Paperback, Second Edition, 240 pages
Published September 1st 2006 by FalconGuides (first published January 1st 1993)
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Juan Gallostra
Feb 19, 2019 rated it it was amazing
This is a fantastic book to get a hang of the techniques used for multipitch climbing. It covers the main topics in great detail and the included images help in clarifying the ideas explained. Personally, I have learnt a lot from it and it has been useful to solve most of the questions I had about protection placement and building and rigging belay anchor.

It is a great book to keep for reference and, a part from that, I also enjoyed the way it is written.
Andrew McLean
Jul 15, 2019 rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition

An excellent read. Superb flowing, good humoured prose on a subject which should be dear to every climber. My only critique is that the human factors in anchor failures, while constantly alluded to and described was not deemed worthy of a chapter of its own. Excellent writing and I will be reading John Long again.
Crissy Wright
Oct 11, 2019 rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
Highly recommended!!

Excellent resource for those starting out in outdoor climbing! The information is rich and avoids being “dumbed down” for the newbie, however, plenty of terms are defined and concepts explained to ensure that beginners can follow the authors thought process.
Jean Dupenloup
May 03, 2020 rated it really liked it
I read this how-to book early on my climbing career, and it has really helped me master basic techniques I still use to this day.

Of particular influence on me was the Sliding X anchor, which I did not know prior to reading this.

John Long is a master of climbing instruction books.
Dec 30, 2018 rated it liked it
It took me 4 times to get into it, but was well worth it. Great intro / overview to safe anchor-building for rock climbing. Helped me get more confident in trad leading last summer.
Nicolas Di Campli
Clear and concise - great guide/reference book for those getting into trad.
John Dwyer
Jan 04, 2021 rated it it was amazing
Haven't died yet. There is a stipulation in my will that should I die in a climbing accident, one star be taken off my review. ...more
Mark Tadder
Apr 01, 2021 rated it it was amazing
Back in the day when advanced climbing training was difficult if even possible to find, this book almost certainly saved my and many partners lives with the skills and knowledge found within
Jake McCrary
I thought this was a pretty great book on climbing anchors. I should preface this review by saying I don't have on-the-rock experience with the subject matter nor have I done extensive research on the subject. At the time of reading this book my background in climbing has been limited to single pitch sport climbing and bouldering. I have never needed to setup an anchor or place a piece of gear.

This book starts with an introduction to to anchors and a brief history of rock hardware. The first fou
Apr 29, 2010 rated it really liked it  ·  review of another edition
Recommends it for: climbers
Shelves: climbing
The point of this book is to teach the reader how to create safe, solid anchors for big wall (multi-pitch) routes, and it does a very good job of that. There's a lot of emphasis on making the primary anchor bomb-proof and multi-directional, because hey, your life actually DOES depend on it holding.

If you're looking to learn how to make or improve your anchors for single pitch routes (top-roping) like I was, this book is overkill. The chapters on knots and anchor dynamics were definitely useful,
Aug 16, 2011 rated it really liked it
I have heard that some dislike Long's writing style, but I quite enjoyed it. This book is concise and straightforward, which is critical when writing about technical climbing anchors and no miscommunication is permissible. Add in a touch of climbing humor and you've got a great guide. I haven't read Leubben's book on the subject, but have it on order to do a comparison. ...more
May 20, 2016 rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
Classic book on anchors updater

I own all 3 editions. It gets better each time . The real research is crucial. We want to make choices hased on knowlege instead of gut feeling. I loved the concluding paragraphs in this edition. Really hits home if it see climbing as something that relates to your philosophical and even religious ties in the world.
Feb 18, 2014 rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
I just finished this, the most recent edition of John Long's classic instruction manual, and it's great.

I'm eager to experiment with the equalette concept, as an alternative to the cordelette, as well as the Quad setup for two-bolt anchors.
Aug 03, 2007 added it
Recommends it for: All climbers
Not only a primer of how to set protection, but also basic rock craft and safety. Good anchor analysis and comparisons.
Dec 08, 2008 rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
Largo eyeballs your supposedly safe anchors, then rips you a new one.
Dec 22, 2008 rated it really liked it  ·  review of another edition
Required reading for any climber. Setting decent anchors is far from intuitive even for experienced climbers, and this book helps a lot.
Ted Conbeer
Sep 10, 2009 rated it it was amazing
Don't leave the ground without it... Stresses safety through a clear approach to the ERNEST fundamentals, and gives dozens of examples of proper and deadly anchors. ...more
Nov 17, 2009 rated it it was amazing
Must read for any climber. Excellent descriptions and illustrations.
Jun 01, 2011 rated it really liked it
Shelves: outdoors
learned a ton. pretty thorough, definitely useful for newbies like Mr.
Matt Holland
Aug 17, 2011 rated it it was amazing
Great book to learn anchors (in my case for setting topropes). Now I can't wait to try the technique out on some real rock once my ankle break heals! ...more
Kevin H.
Feb 26, 2012 rated it really liked it
very informative. a must-read for anyone considering leading trad or doing any type of anchor setting where your life depends on your anchor building skills.
The first of two awesome anchor references. Learn this stuff if you climb!
Sep 24, 2012 rated it it was amazing
This is my second cover to cover read. The text is full of information to consume. I will likely need several more reads before I get familiar with it all. This is a great book.
Jacob Miller
The Trad climber's primer. ...more
Mike Chambers
Jan 09, 2014 rated it it was amazing
No matter the skill level, there are tips in this book to make anyone a safer and more efficient climber. Well presented and easy to follow.
May 30, 2015 rated it it was amazing
This book will save your life.
Eric Konzelmann
Oct 17, 2015 rated it it was amazing
This book will save your life.
Apr 27, 2016 rated it really liked it
Clear, concise, and a must read for the beginner
Climber to a long time trad daddy. Great for anyone who needs some pointers or refreshing back to the basics.
Aug 06, 2011 rated it liked it
4 Stars
Feb 24, 2018 added it
The bible of anchor basics. part of the AMGA reading list for good reason.
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Librarian Note: There is more than one author in the Goodreads database with this name.

John Long is an American rock climber and author.

Other books in the series

How to climb series (1 - 10 of 12 books)
  • Gym Climb
  • Sport Climbing
  • Basic Climbing Anchors
  • More Climbing Anchors
  • Big Walls
  • Advanced Rock Climbing
  • How to Rock Climb!
  • How to Rock Climb: Better Bouldering
  • How to Rock Climb: Toproping
  • How to Rock Climb: Nutrition for Climbers

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