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Climbing Anchors

4.29  ·  Rating details ·  263 Ratings  ·  24 Reviews
The comprehensive guide to anchoring systems for rock climbers.
Paperback, Second Edition, 240 pages
Published September 1st 2006 by FalconGuides (first published January 1st 1993)
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Matt Foster
Mar 07, 2017 rated it it was amazing
A really interesting guide to placing gear and building anchors.
Jake McCrary
I thought this was a pretty great book on climbing anchors. I should preface this review by saying I don't have on-the-rock experience with the subject matter nor have I done extensive research on the subject. At the time of reading this book my background in climbing has been limited to single pitch sport climbing and bouldering. I have never needed to setup an anchor or place a piece of gear.

This book starts with an introduction to to anchors and a brief history of rock hardware. The first fou
Apr 29, 2010 rated it really liked it  ·  review of another edition
Recommends it for: climbers
Shelves: climbing
The point of this book is to teach the reader how to create safe, solid anchors for big wall (multi-pitch) routes, and it does a very good job of that. There's a lot of emphasis on making the primary anchor bomb-proof and multi-directional, because hey, your life actually DOES depend on it holding.

If you're looking to learn how to make or improve your anchors for single pitch routes (top-roping) like I was, this book is overkill. The chapters on knots and anchor dynamics were definitely useful,
May 20, 2016 rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
Classic book on anchors updater

I own all 3 editions. It gets better each time . The real research is crucial. We want to make choices hased on knowlege instead of gut feeling. I loved the concluding paragraphs in this edition. Really hits home if it see climbing as something that relates to your philosophical and even religious ties in the world.
Aug 16, 2011 rated it really liked it
I have heard that some dislike Long's writing style, but I quite enjoyed it. This book is concise and straightforward, which is critical when writing about technical climbing anchors and no miscommunication is permissible. Add in a touch of climbing humor and you've got a great guide. I haven't read Leubben's book on the subject, but have it on order to do a comparison.
Feb 18, 2014 rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
I just finished this, the most recent edition of John Long's classic instruction manual, and it's great.

I'm eager to experiment with the equalette concept, as an alternative to the cordelette, as well as the Quad setup for two-bolt anchors.
The first of two awesome anchor references. Learn this stuff if you climb!
Kevin H.
Feb 26, 2012 rated it really liked it
very informative. a must-read for anyone considering leading trad or doing any type of anchor setting where your life depends on your anchor building skills.
Sep 24, 2012 rated it it was amazing
This is my second cover to cover read. The text is full of information to consume. I will likely need several more reads before I get familiar with it all. This is a great book.
Aug 03, 2007 added it
Recommends it for: All climbers
Not only a primer of how to set protection, but also basic rock craft and safety. Good anchor analysis and comparisons.
Ted Conbeer
Sep 10, 2009 rated it it was amazing
Don't leave the ground without it... Stresses safety through a clear approach to the ERNEST fundamentals, and gives dozens of examples of proper and deadly anchors.
Jun 01, 2011 rated it really liked it
Shelves: outdoors
learned a ton. pretty thorough, definitely useful for newbies like Mr.
Aaron Simon
Apr 27, 2016 rated it really liked it
Clear, concise, and a must read for the beginner
Climber to a long time trad daddy. Great for anyone who needs some pointers or refreshing back to the basics.
Steve Heikkila
Jun 07, 2012 rated it really liked it
The Bible.
Dec 08, 2008 rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
Largo eyeballs your supposedly safe anchors, then rips you a new one.
Mike Chambers
Jan 09, 2014 rated it it was amazing
No matter the skill level, there are tips in this book to make anyone a safer and more efficient climber. Well presented and easy to follow.
Eric Nieters
Oct 17, 2015 rated it it was amazing
This book will save your life.
Jacob Miller
The Trad climber's primer.
Dec 22, 2008 rated it really liked it  ·  review of another edition
Required reading for any climber. Setting decent anchors is far from intuitive even for experienced climbers, and this book helps a lot.
Matt Holland
Aug 17, 2011 rated it it was amazing
Great book to learn anchors (in my case for setting topropes). Now I can't wait to try the technique out on some real rock once my ankle break heals!
Nov 17, 2009 rated it it was amazing
Must read for any climber. Excellent descriptions and illustrations.
May 30, 2015 rated it it was amazing
This book will save your life.
T.J. Kieper
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Mar 01, 2018
Alon Dahari
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Jan 01, 2017
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Feb 19, 2018
Caleb Domsy
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Apr 05, 2013
Albert Pickwick
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Aug 26, 2016
John Beckerman
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Edward Jenny
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Librarian Note: There is more than one author in the Goodreads database with this name.

John Long is an American rock climber and author.
More about John Long