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The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South

4.03  ·  Rating details ·  2,744 ratings  ·  469 reviews

2018 James Beard Foundation Book of the Year | 2018 James Beard Foundation Book Award Winner inWriting | Nominee for the 2018 Hurston/Wright Legacy Award in Nonfiction | #75 on The Root100 2018

A renowned culinary historian offers a fresh perspective on our most divisive cultural issue, race, in this illuminating memoir of Southern cuisine and food culture that traces h

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ebook, 480 pages
Published August 1st 2017 by Amistad
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Petra-X
Finally a review, of sorts. 10 Star book! The author is gay, black, white, Jewish and a historian and a writer, an amazing writer. With all that background, was hoping for a book that was really out of the ordinary and I got it.

The author, from a black Christian family in the deep South decided at 6 he was Jewish. Nearly 20 years later he became an Orthodox Jew as well as a food historian and a lecturer and cook on a plantation to tour groups who wanted to see not only the where and what of sla
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Brown Girl Reading
Dec 04, 2017 rated it liked it  ·  review of another edition
Recommends it for: nonfiction lovers
My rating for this book is actually 3,5 stars. The Cooking Gene was quite the challenge for me and for the ladies I buddy read it with. The Cooking Gene is an exploration of African-American culinary history in the south, slavery, and genealogy. I wasn't read for the way the book was laid out. I was expecting something a bit more linear than what I got, which was a jumpy, hard to stay on tract reading project. There were some key elements missing to make the reading experience better - maps, glo ...more
Alexandra
Sep 13, 2017 rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
Shelves: food
I heard Michael Twitty speak on a panel a few years ago, at an event on interpreting African-American history today. Twitty, a gay black Jewish man who passionately talked about culinary history, sparked my interest. He is well known for cooking meals on plantations in the American South using only the cookware and food that was available to slaves. I was thrilled to find out that he would be publishing a book, and eagerly awaited its publication. I was not disappointed.

"The Cooking Gene" is a m
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Monica **can't read fast enough**
Unfortunately, The Cooking Gene was a bust for me. I think that I was expecting a reading experience from Twitty that he wasn't really promising in the synopsis. I may have read more into what the book would be about than the premise really is. I thought that I was going to get a book that pretty thoroughly explored the social aspects and dynamics of food in the African American community. How food played and still plays a part in how many of us show affection and appreciation for one another th ...more
Jenny (Reading Envy)
I have been wanting to read this book for quite a while, and the summer Reading Envy Picnic challenge helped push me into it.

"This taste in my mouth is the flavor of black folks taking their country back."

Michael W. Twitty is a culinary historian who has taken a deep look at southern cuisine through many lenses, but always coming back to his identity as a black (but not only black), gay, Jewish man. He is known to some because of a piece he wrote a few years ago, An Open Letter to Paula Deen, b
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Gabriella
I think it’s most fitting to begin at this book’s end: “It is no sin to go back and fetch what you have forgotten.” In The Cooking Gene, Michael W. Twitty helps us rediscover a vast and influential culinary tradition that black Americans have created throughout our time on this continent.

Some people are sangers, not singers. Some people cook, and others, like my father says, can burn: Twitty is clearly in the latter group. As someone who only burns water (but washes a mean dish), I wasn’t sure
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Kelly
Oct 22, 2017 rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
I've been following Twitty's blog, Afroculinaria, ever since I heard an interview with him on local Washington, DC radio a few years ago. He is a really interesting guy--and just reading his recipes will make you hungry!

A basic premise of the book is that black Americans need to "reclaim" southern cuisine. I don't really have a dog in that fight (which seems to be mostly in culinary circles anyway), I just like to eat the food! I'm white, but I've always assumed that Southern food belonged to ev
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Jessica
Oct 21, 2017 rated it liked it  ·  review of another edition
Shelves: non-fiction
This is a troubling book is many ways.

Needless to say the subject of slavery itself is a difficult one. While Twitty frames his entire book in terms of himself and his family/ancestors, it's not hard to extrapolate to the larger picture. If you didn't already know how brutal/inhumane/unacceptable/etc. slavery was, there's enough here to drive it home for you.

But of course the focus is supposed to be African American culinary history and I have a hard time seeing how this book does justice to t
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Leslie Reese
"My mouth had been watering to read Michael W. Twitty’s The Cooking Gene A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South ever since I learned about it from reading Twitty’s blog, Afroculinaria, where he often writes about the intersections between history, racial politics, social justice, and food. The idea of Twitty, a black male culinary authority – who also identifies as Jewish and gay – investigating and writing about “African American History in the Old South” had me an ...more
Gail
Aug 11, 2017 rated it really liked it
I had a complicated experience reading this book. On the whole, it rates 4* for the important and fascinating information on the history of enslavement in America, the culinary history of Southern food, and the way in which DNA can guide a genealogical project. But the book is not without its flaws.

My mother was born a Southerner (white) and I recall our family treks from Wisconsin to Virginia which was very much moving from one culture (heavily German/Scandinavian) to a foreign one. The food my
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Claire
Michael Twitty has penned a sweeping memoir enriched with interleaved stories of the African Slave experience. As a culinary historian who delves into the African contribution to American cooking and a docent in a living history center demonstrating slave cooking, Michael used those resources as a jumping point, ultimately traveling the world gathering details for this wide reaching tale.
Sometimes drifting into a scholarly voice Michael Twitty never loses sight of the soul rending truth of slav
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Kelly
A recommendation from a Book Riot pal and it was a good one! Twitty is black, queer, and Jewish, and he's also a culinary historian with a research and personal interest in the history of food and meals in the south. Twitty narrates, making this more enjoyable to listen to for me than I suspect it would have been reading. It's technical at times and very rooted in research; even when we learn about Twitty's own personal history, it's quite removed and impersonal, which is done purposefully to ma ...more
Audrey
I went into this read thinking that this would be a book that focused solely on cooking. Instead, it's so much more: a history text curated along the lines of enslaved African American foodways, a culinary history text examining the economics of the Old South, and an incredible examination of the author's connection to his family and his ancestors, and how he's driven to explore that connection in relation to the first two strata.

It's a lot, is what this book is.

And it took me a long time to re
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Joy
Oct 18, 2017 rated it really liked it
I heard about this book on a podcast (Bite, I think?) and it sounded fascinating and educational so I picked it up and started reading it pretty quickly. The book turned out to be both what I thought it was along with something different, and I learned a lot while reading it.

The premise of the book is simple enough - a black man wants to learn more about his family history via the food they eat, along with how that has been affected by social, political, and economic issues throughout the last f
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Jo-Ann
Oct 25, 2017 rated it it was amazing
Shelves: genealogy
Magnificent read! In many ways it was not an easy read but the layers are thought provoking, at times jarring. The topics covered by Michael Twitty can each command special series in themselves - Ancestry DNA related groups and communities, food as a conduit of cultural norms and so forth. I have read historical cookery writers such as Fannie Farmer and Mrs. Beeton, but this goes way behind the scope of their coverage. I look forward to more from this writer and applaud him in the degree and dep ...more
Cindy
Sep 27, 2017 rated it it was ok
Shelves: book-club-reads
Didn't finish. Too disjointed and I couldn't stay awake long enough at any stretch to make this a worthwhile use of my time. May have been a function of a hectic schedule, though I think some editing was in order.
Beverly
Dec 02, 2017 rated it really liked it
thoughts coming shortly
Jessica
Jan 10, 2018 rated it really liked it
This book satisfies on so many levels...a memoir with recipes and American history and genealogy.


Juushika
An exploration of the history of African American cuisine via one man's investigations into his enslaved ancestors. Memoirs are usually compulsively readable, even if grim; despite appearances this is too broad in scope to be a memoir, and it's certainly not quick reading. Twitty makes some attempts to justify the book's messy structure, and he's right that the subject, particularly the genealogical focus, is by nature disjointed and complex; this still wants for a refined introduction, a strong ...more
Victoria
Jun 12, 2019 added it
Shelves: land-food
admittedly skipped some chapters but others (adam in the garden, crossroads, sankofa) were so magic and alive...definitely helped me think more abt food and crisscrossing ancestries and reconnecting to homeland. hopefully one day i'll get to see michael twitty talk or cook but for now i'll reread all his things
Debbie Notkin
Nov 25, 2017 rated it it was amazing
This is an extraordinary book. Twitty manages to combine his love of the South and Southern food, his deep personal and ancestral feelings about slavery, his (Jewish) religious faith, his search for his genetic lineage, and more into a compelling, emotional, complex, sensual narrative.

He certainly added to my understanding of culinary history, especially in the American south and Africa, but also in northern Europe and elsewhere. He gave me a whole new slant on what the transition of southern ec
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Richard Duncan
May 19, 2019 rated it really liked it
Shelves: in-the-nook
This is a confounding book. Sometimes it reads like a memoir, at other times a treatise on life under slavery. Or the influences of slavery on American regional cuisines. Or the vagaries of genetic research. The author spends a great deal of time discussing how he explored his ancestry via various DNA services, with inconclusive results. He spends page after page discussing hundreds of relatives and ancestors who figure, in one way or another, into the narrative.

And he bounces from topic to topi
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Ixan
Nov 17, 2018 rated it it was amazing
Recommended to Ixan by: Petra-X
Shelves: non-fiction
This is my book of the year.
Patty
Mar 15, 2018 rated it really liked it
I can understand some reader comments on the cohesiveness (or lack thereof) of this book, but right from the start, Twitty makes no claims that the book is anything other than what it is- the genetics and geneaology of his family and, by extention, of African Americans in general, as well as the culinary and cultural history of African Americans in the creation of a southern or soul food cuisine. The book is certainly a mosaic and there are chapters in which I did not follow the tribal African n ...more
Rebecca Farrell
Sep 11, 2017 rated it it was amazing
Shelves: nonfiction
Twitty provides a fascinating look into how African cooking during the Slave Trade influenced the modern day and historic foods we associate with Southern cooking today, and how climate, cash crops, and the violence visited upon the enslaved all are evident in the cuisine. It's a deep dive into his own personal genealogy and family oral histories as well, written in a way that doesn't provide conclusion, as so many African American people can never fully re-discover their lost roots. A few chapt ...more
BookTrib.com
The Cooking Gene goes on our must read list - no wonder this book is Number 1 on Amazon releases right now. Read our full review here!
https://booktrib.com/2017/07/amazon-c...
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Stephen
This is a bit hard to rate. As the author admits, this isn't the most 'linear' or 'orderly' book, but I also agree with Twitty that is because of its ambition. This is a book about many things. On the surface it's about food, but mostly it's about food because that's the lens that Twitty, a culinary historian (et al.) sees the world through. This will certainly give the reader an idea of the present and the history of Soul Food, Southern Food in general, and other bits of African and African-des ...more
Sharon
I almost don't know where to start this review. Like the author, I have been a first-person cultural interpreter. Like the author, I am interested in foodways of all sorts.

Unlike the author, I can't trace any amazing connection between the entire history of the United States and the foodways of his enslaved ancestors ... all the way back to Africa. That's just what Michael W. Twitty has done in this book, which is part memoir, part sociology text, and part cookery book.

In between familial storie
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Ai Miller
Oct 05, 2019 rated it really liked it
Shelves: black-studies
This was a really incredible look at African American historic foodways, with a really careful look at specificity of geography and time. Twitty manages to draw all of these threads together without it feeling confusing very often, though sometimes the sea of names--which are necessary to both give credit to those from whom he's drawing his work, as well as his own genealogy and those of others--gets a little confusing, and I might have been better equipped to deal with if I had not tried to rea ...more
MargaretDH
Jun 14, 2019 rated it really liked it
This book examines and explores slavery in America through the lens of food and Twitty's exploration of his genealogy and genetics. Twitty suggests that the way that African cuisine influenced and infiltrated the food of the American South is analogous to the way that the forced migration of Africans changed those people. It's unflinching, but also warm and honest. Twitty digs into his past through the food that he cooks, eats and shares, and I liked it a lot. He's also a museum and historical s ...more
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Michael W. Twitty is a food writer, independent scholar, culinary historian , and historical interpreter personally charged with preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways and its parent traditions in Africa and her Diaspora and its legacy in the food culture of the American South. He is also a Judaic studies teacher from the Washington D.C. Metropolitan area and his interests i ...more

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“So much was lost—names, faces, ages, ethnic identities—that African Americans must do what no other ethnic group writ large must do: take a completely shattered vessel and piece it together,” 4 likes
“Food, racism, power, and justice are linked. What I’m trying to do is dismantle culinary nutritional imperialism and gastronomic white supremacy with one cup of zobo made from hibiscus, one bowl of millet salad with groundnuts and dark green vegetables, and one piece of injera at a time. The next wave of human rights abuse is in the form of nutrition injustice” 3 likes
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