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The Man Who Ate Everything

Jeffrey Steingarten

3.87 · Rating details · 8,839 ratings · 581 reviews

When Jeffrey Steingarten was appointed food critic for Vogue, he systematically set out to overcome his distaste for such things as kimchi, lard, Greek cuisine, and blue food. He succeeded at all but the last: Steingarten is "fairly sure that God meant the color blue mainly for food that has gone bad." In this impassioned, mouth-watering, and outrageously funny book, Stein ...more

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Paperback, 528 pages

Published October 27th 1998 by Vintage (first published November 4th 1997)

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Jul 06, 2011 karen rated it it was amazing

Shelves: nonfictions, eats

wow, i have been "reading" this since july. i put it down a bunch and lost it once or twice, but still - it is shameful to have had this darkening my "currently reading" shelf for eight months. shades of Savage Girls and Wild Boys: A History of Feral Children. but today i finished it!!

and it is truly a wonderful book.

this man is the anti-foer. if i were ever to read that foer book - the one everyone says will turn me into a cowering meat-avoider, all i would have to do to recover is open this bo wow, i have been "reading" this since july. i put it down a bunch and lost it once or twice, but still - it is shameful to have had this darkening my "currently reading" shelf for eight months. shades of Savage Girls and Wild Boys: A History of Feral Children. but today i finished it!!

and it is truly a wonderful book.

this man is the anti-foer. if i were ever to read that foer book - the one everyone says will turn me into a cowering meat-avoider, all i would have to do to recover is open this book and read his love letter to southern barbecue, or his swooning over french fries left to rest under chickens roasting suspended above, their succulent juices dripping over the crispy potatoes, or his descriptions of seafood - any seafood at all.

this book is such a lovingly recollected tale of his food-journeys and experiments. i completely envy him his job. if he wants to test out this newfangled microwave invention, he goes out and buys a couple, on vogue's dime, and experiments away. if he wants to explore local-food movements, he just jets out to the west coast and eats at the top ten or so restaurants and gorges. he gets to go to all the secret restaurants tucked away deep in the mountains in distant lands that only the truly initiated even know about...

and just the quantity of food! the chapter on the choucroute nearly gave me a sympathy stomachache with just how much food he and his wife were consuming. this man could give me a run for my money, appetite-wise. oh, the gluttony - all for his need to find the best food, the best way of preparing food, the best methods and ingredients and which food "facts" are actually fraudulent, for science.

when i eat an entire box of girl scout cookies, it is also for science.

he is my new favorite food-writer. he is funny and hungry and i am 100% using his stuffing recipe this year for thanksgiving, even though he poo-poohs turkey, which is ridiculous. he has never had my turkey, is all. oh, and i am also going to make this fruitcake recipe. i have never had fruitcake. is that weird? his sounds intense. and i must have it. expect fruitcakes in the mail come holiday time next year.

if you have any interest whatsoever in food, apart from using it as fuel to sustain your machine-like body, i suggest you take a look at this book, and prepare to drool

now i am going to get my hands on his follow-up and see how long that one takes me to get through!

come to my blog! ...more

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Jun 23, 2008 Julia rated it liked it

Shelves: foodie-stuff, memoirs

The entire time I was growing up, my feminist lawyer mother had a subscription to Vogue. I can't completely explain it myself, but woman does love her shoes. Anyway, I spent elementary school reading Steingarten articles for the mag, where he is still the food columnist. My conclusion for this book is that he is probably best in small doses. Like, monthly doses. But, if you've never read any of his stuff before, I'd check this out in one-essay-at-a-time stints. Steingarten is obviously brilliant ...more

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Nov 29, 2007 Garrett rated it it was ok

Since I'm into cooking and, to a lesser extent, food writing, this book had been recommended to me several times over the last few years. I finally borrowed it from a friend at work and must say that it didn't really live up to my expectations. It's an interesting, engaging, often funny book, probably essential for the gourmand, but if you have a mere passing interest in gourmet and exotic food, you'd probably do well to skip it and read something by Mark Kurlansky instead.
I suppose my biggest c ...more

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Jan 11, 2010 Christine rated it it was ok

Shelves: read-cooking

Steingarten's compilation of essays on a wide variety of food-related subjects written in the late 80s and 90s seems like it might be an interesting read for someone who likes food and cooking. HOWEVER, the man's ego (astronomical, of untold proportions, seriously it can be seen from three planets over) is a bit of a turn off. Its fun to read about someone experimenting with the many ways you can use a particular kitchen appliance or how best to prepare a particular cut of meat, but in all the b ...more

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Jun 28, 2010 Vanessa marked it as unfinished

Probably not going to finish this one. I am not going to make it to book club, and, frankly, I don't like the book, or the author. He can be witty and smart enough at times, and I liked it for a while, and maybe it's just the bar-study grumpiness talking, but I really resent that large chunks of this read like a "dieting" memoir, and that if it were written by a woman it would not be considered some kind of clever high-mindedness, but rather just some woman ranting about weighing herself four ti ...more

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Sep 16, 2008 An rated it it was amazing

Recommends it for: Foodies and Lindsay

Recommended to An by: TV

This review has been hidden because it contains spoilers. To view it, click here.

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Aug 12, 2019 Frances rated it liked it

Shelves: cookbooks, food, san-francisco, historical

This was fine? I think I was mostly jarred by the constant reminders that this book was first published in the early 90s.

Got a problem? It's ok - here's a number to call.

Memphis BBQ competitions are a white man's game...WHAT?

French food is just butter and cream! Uh, no.

SUSHI IS SO EXOTIC.

Maybe in like another 30 years this will be hilarious, but right now it's just weird. ...more

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Mar 28, 2016 Helen (Helena/Nell) rated it it was amazing

This book represents to me a lost way of life. It’s a life in which I would read books like this, slowly, with particular pleasure, laughing out loud at regular intervals. Afterwards, I would have time to write about them all, and share some of my pleasure. I almost did this today but that’s because I am on holiday.

The Man Who Ate Everything is a book of essays, and really each one should be savoured at length. No rushing. Gentle but steady progress is the thing. I am at an age where I no longer This book represents to me a lost way of life. It’s a life in which I would read books like this, slowly, with particular pleasure, laughing out loud at regular intervals. Afterwards, I would have time to write about them all, and share some of my pleasure. I almost did this today but that’s because I am on holiday.

The Man Who Ate Everything is a book of essays, and really each one should be savoured at length. No rushing. Gentle but steady progress is the thing. I am at an age where I no longer need to read the recipes (which shortens the book by about ten per cent) because I have no intention of attempting to make them. It’s enough to read about Jeffrey Steingarten’s noble culinary inventiveness, the people he meets, the morsels he tastes, the trips in taxis to find ingredients, the joyous errors, the fabulous achievements, the wonderful life of a professional food writer.

Good cookery books tend to make me salivate, which I imagine is a good sign. Sometimes I have to resort to a savoury snack because the whole business of FOOD starts to get too much for me. But here, if I resisted the early instinct to eat, I found there there was a counter-effect. By the end of most of the essays, I felt pretty full. In fact, once or twice, I felt slightly queasy as though I had eaten too much granita or one Piedmont truffle too many.

The best bit though is the style. He writes so well. It’s vivid, sensuous, and the humour is dry and cumulative. I thought it funny to start with but even by the very last chapter, I forced my partner to listen to me reading aloud an extract from ‘Big Bird’, which is about cooking turkey. It was the part about getting the perfect turkey skin, using in this case a "new electric Farberware Standard Smokeless Indoor Grill with Rotisserie".

My partner did not laugh, but I laughed all over again while reading it to him. I think my taste for humorous writing is better developed than his, though in brief quotation (or briefly reading aloud) one can’t recreate the way the serious description of product and process gradually builds towards a high point. Here is the sample he resisted:

"The Faberware booklet envisions cooking a turkey weighing up to seventeen pounds, and that is the size I tried, with the bird unstuffed and tightly trussed and a roasting time of five hours. Less than one of the five hours had passed when the turkey’s wing slipped from under the string and caught on the electric coil, preventing the bird from turning further. Thus fixed, the turkey began to brown rapidly and then to blacken along a stripe from neck to tail; the string holding the legs against the body burned through, and both legs plunged into the glowing coils. It was the stench of charring flesh and the billows of smoke that attracted my attention and drew me back into the kitchen, where for the next hour I struggled with seventeen pounds of hot, greasy flesh and protruding bones as I retied and rebalanced the bird, and plugged the Farberware back into the wall socket. When I returned half an hour later, very little progress was visible because I had, in actual fact, plugged in the blender, whose cord eerily resembled that of the Farberware."

I don’t want to give the impression that the book is one big laugh. Lots of it is in the tradition of the best cookery writers – recreating atmosphere, character, ingredients and the search for regional food. I grew up on Elizabeth David and MFK Fisher. I predict that this book, though it has taken me nearly twenty years to read, and some of the references to food research are probably now out of date, will wear well. And I love the way the author’s wife walks in and out of the pages. Wives are extremely useful when you want to be amusing. So much so that I almost wish I had one, instead of the male partner who didn’t even find this funny, though I continue to believe you would. (Said partner is still waiting for dinner to appear, while the dinner-maker has been reading a food book instead.)

But I’m going to leave you with the author’s wife’s last word. Jeffrey Steingarten has just spent the best part of fourteen pages exploring how to make the perfect potato fries (or as we in the UK call them, chips). On page 345, yet another possibility occurs:

"I have just learned that Alain Dutournier, the excellent Parisian chef from southwest France, cooks his French fries in goose fat. He uses an unusual combination of temperatures: after a first low-temperature frying, you wait two hours, start the second frying at 280 degrees Fahrenheit, and slowly increase the temperature to 392 degrees. The idea is intriguing, and I would like to try it immediately. But my wife has just passed through the kitchen and slipped into bed, leaving me alone, surrounded by four white bubbling-hot electric deep fryers and piles of unpeeled Idaho potatoes. ‘Smile and the world smiles with you,’ she said as she disappeared. ‘Fry and you fry alone.’ "
...more

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Feb 15, 2016 Madhulika Liddle rated it really liked it

Or nearly everything, since it seems unlikely that anybody who had ever had a good nolen gurer shondesh would so summarily dismiss all Indian desserts as being reminiscent of highly perfumed creams fit only for the boudoir. But yes, Jeffrey Steingarten, once the monthly food correspondent for Vogue, does seem to have pretty much eaten the best (and the worst) of most of the highly acclaimed cuisines, at least as far as the Western world is concerned.

In this interesting and very eclectic collect Or nearly everything, since it seems unlikely that anybody who had ever had a good nolen gurer shondesh would so summarily dismiss all Indian desserts as being reminiscent of highly perfumed creams fit only for the boudoir. But yes, Jeffrey Steingarten, once the monthly food correspondent for Vogue, does seem to have pretty much eaten the best (and the worst) of most of the highly acclaimed cuisines, at least as far as the Western world is concerned.

In this interesting and very eclectic collection of essays on food, Steingarten discusses just about everything related to food, from the sad decline of French haute cuisine to the best way to make everything from French fries to American pies (specifically, fruit pies) to the perfect mashed potatoes. He takes his readers to far flung places, he shares interesting information (for example, did you know that saliva is salty? Or that zabaglione was invented as a result of a mistake in 17th century Turin, and was named for San Giovanni Baylon, the patron saint of pastry [I didn't even know pastry had a patron saint]? Or that in Sicily—home to the best granitas in the world—granitas are often eaten with cream and a brioche?)

He goes into the science of food. Of what makes the best pastry and why. Of how to pick the best fruit from the markets, and why some fruit tastes just as good if it’s been artificially ripened as it would if ripened on the plant, while others are awful if picked raw and ripened in transit or storage. He takes you, along with him, on journeys of culinary exploration, from Tunisia to Venice, from a pork barbecue competition in Memphis to the hunt for the finest tartufi bianchi d’Alba (white truffles from Alba) in Italy. He painstakingly describes a very refined kaiseki ryori meal, the finest of fine dining in Japan, and just as painstakingly goes about replicating dishes from recipes off the backs of cartons. He discusses the French Paradox (that the French, despite consuming the vast quantities of cream, butter and cheese they do, still come only behind the Japanese when it comes to cardiac health). He discusses fats and fads, diets and equipment, and—well, just about everything related to food.

The Man Who Ate Everything is informative, and in a chatty, easy-to-read way. Steingarten is funny, like when he talks self-deprecatingly about his attempts to make the perfect pie crust or the perfect pasta (with the eggs sliding happily into an open drawer of silverware…), and is an obviously dedicated foodie (“ Whenever I travel to France, I like to hit the ground eating”).

The bulk of this book consists of essays written before 1995, so you do get some sections that are outdated (for instance, very few food writers would think it necessary today to explain what umami means—and fewer would actually write that our taste buds can only sense sweet, sour, salty and bitter). There are also a few questionable assertions ("The sale of chickpeas is illegal in many states in India, where they would otherwise completely dominate the diet of the poor, who make chapati out of chickpea flour, which is ground from raw chickpeas."), and occasional sections which go on and on (the dictionary of Venetian seafood, for instance). And the long and detailed section on pheromones, while interesting, actually ends up having very little to do with food—or at least the way Steingarten explains it.

On the whole, though, a book well worth the read if you happen to find food interesting. ...more

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Sep 07, 2012 Emily McMillan rated it liked it

I am not a foodie, I don’t watch cooking shows and only rarely read Vogue; I had no idea who Jeffrey Steingarten was when this book was loaned to me. The title and the recommendation from a friend were enough to convince me to give it a shot, though I had little idea what I was in for. Steingarten is many things: witty, clever, simultaneously pompous and self-deprecating, obsessive and thorough. Above all he is interested, which is what kept me interested. He’s curious about the way foods are ma ...more

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May 02, 2018 Emma rated it liked it

I'd say that this deserves a 3.5 star rating, but I really like food writing. Some of these essays, particularly the introduction, were really fabulous. Rather more of them I wish I'd skipped (I read through the entire thing cover to cover, though I didn't cook any of the recipes). I picked it up looking for something that I could read on my morning train, so I enjoyed the format. ...more

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Sep 03, 2012 Laura rated it did not like it

Recommends it for: nobody

Shelves: food, non-fiction, abandoned

I don't understand this book. The premise seemed to be that the author had lots of different foods that he would not eat (kimchi, Greek food, etc.) and he decided he didn't want to live that way anymore. He didn't want to be someone whose eating phobias made it difficult for his dining companions, like vegans or those insufferable people who choose to go gluten free. So he basically gets over it. He says that it takes between 8 and 10 exposures to a new food for a child to embrace it, and that i ...more

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May 14, 2010 Maria Elmvang rated it it was ok · review of another edition

Shelves: 2011, essays, non-fiction, not-owned, 2-stars

I was tempted to give this only one star, but it seemed a bit too negative for a book I didn't actually have to force myself to finish. 1.5 would probably have been fitting, because at times this book was really, really, REALLY boring... the mere fact that I've been reading it for more than 6 months should be proof of that!

The book blurb - as well as the title itself - led me to believe that it would be a collection of essays about Jeffrey Steingarten eating weird things. I thought that sounded ...more

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Oct 02, 2014 Bliss Phan rated it really liked it

This review has been hidden because it contains spoilers. To view it, click here.

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Jun 20, 2018 R rated it it was ok · review of another edition

Shelves: recipes

Finally! My attention was more on tangents than content as I slogged through the first 250 pages, determined to finish this book (for whatever type-A reason) to find some gems towards the end of the book. Mr. Steingarten's humor does not easily translate via written word at times, so his months of attempts to make bread was a bit laborious to read although understandable. His travels to find the best of rarely made cultural foods in Europe grated with blatant overtones of privilege, money, and f ...more

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Dec 08, 2010 Julie rated it really liked it

Shelves: funny, food-writing, favorites

Though I love food writing, I sometimes shy away from it for fear that it will be lofty, pretentious, or too envy-inducing to be enjoyable. That is not the case here. Jeffrey Steingarten, a food critic for Vogue, sets out on culinary adventures and misadventures so offbeat and engrossing, it's impossible not to laugh and learn and salivate along the way. His approach is humble and investigative, relatable, and so funny. It's everything I love: informative writing, good food, and a lot of laughs. ...more

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Jan 29, 2019 Anne rated it it was ok

Meh. This book was not what I thought it would be. I’ve had it on my TBR list for so long that even though I didn’t really like it I insisted on finishing it. Each chapter was an article written by the author about his food travel adventures in the late 80’s and early 90’s. While I was hoping my parents would pick up Pizza Hut once a week he was eating everything the world had to offer. I struggled with the different time and culture he was writing during. His writing was slightly humorous but m ...more

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Jan 19, 2008 Angela rated it liked it

Recommends it for: food lovers

i liked this book better than the 3 stars i gave it, but i wouldn't say it was a 4 star book. every chapter was enjoyable. the author's wit and love for food are charming. the problem is that it's difficult to read straight through, as it's a collection of his writing from over a period of years, so topics and tone vary widely. he includes a lot of recipes that i intend to try and if the chapter on kyoto cuisine doesn't make you want to go to japan, then nothing will. ...more

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Dec 11, 2011 Minh rated it really liked it

Shelves: science

A surprisingly hefty read, The man who ate everything is a collection of articles that cover a range of topics from the perfect pie crust, american style BBQ, bread baking and the exquisite nature of Kyoto kaiseki.

A few of the articles go into excruciating scientific detail while others make me laugh at the pseudo science (the average mass of a standard shake of salt lol).

Fascinating read for lovers of food, but by no means a quick read.

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Sep 17, 2012 Annie rated it really liked it · review of another edition

Shelves: recommend

It is a collection of essays about food, usually followed with recipes. This book is more for the gourmand, not the average reader. It dives deep into the history of certain foods and their delicious attributes, like bread, french fries, Wagyu beef, and ice cream. It even goes deep into the taste of salt and water. The author's humor can be a little sarcastic and irreverent at times, probably not for everyone. ...more

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Jul 19, 2007 Griffin James rated it really liked it

Recommends it for: those who love to read about food

This book is great for all those who find themselves thinking about food during their idle hours. It also happens to be really funny! I often compare Steingarten to a food-obsessed version of Hunter S. Thompson. Pehaps no one has contemplated food in such depth, humor, and sometimes down-right obesessiveness as Jeffrey Steingarten.

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Apr 28, 2015 Hubert rated it really liked it

Shelves: food

Excellent series of essays (many of them previously published) on food topics ranging from potatoes to Sicilian gelato to American turkey. Steingarten blends history, recipe experimentation, and wry humor to get get the reader really excited about food, perhaps even to the point of trying out food experiments in the same maniacal manner that Steingarten does!

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May 04, 2010 Jamie rated it it was ok

Unfortunately most of the essays in this book were from the early nineties. I did enjoy some of the travel pieces, but also nothing original there - how many times can one go truffle hunting in Italy?

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Jul 26, 2011 Niniane rated it liked it

i thought this would be a novel, and it turns out to be a recipe book with a story/article around each category of recipes. it is good as a cookbook, but not as a story with character development or plot arc.

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Nov 08, 2007 Emily rated it it was amazing

Recommends it for: foodies!

actually I hate the word foodie. but seriously, this book makes food really interesting

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Aug 08, 2009 Margie rated it really liked it

Shelves: collections

I'm not sure what I was expecting (having never read Steingarten previously), but it certainly wasn't this witty, entertaining, or well-researched. Really enjoyable. ...more

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Jan 10, 2013 Laura Skladzinski rated it it was ok

Some chapters were very interesting, others very dull to slog through. Many parts are extremely dated (they were written in the 90s) and just not relevant to today. Overall, a completely mixed bag.

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Jan 02, 2014 Anna rated it really liked it

More of a 3.8 really but I kind of adored this because Steingarten gets so nerdy in his search for the perfect flour for natural yeast bread...it's adorable. Definitely one for food addicts. ...more

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Jan 06, 2018 E.M. Anderson rated it liked it

Shelves: nonfiction

So I wasn't sure what to rate this, largely because I don't read much nonfiction and I don't enjoy nonfiction as much as fiction and I want to be fair. But considering I actually started reading this on the train around Christmas of...2015? and then set it aside for literal years until returning to it this past Christmas and finally completing it, I went with a kind of "meh" rating.

I think it's just the fact that the author frequently comes across as kind of arrogant about food, and then he has So I wasn't sure what to rate this, largely because I don't read much nonfiction and I don't enjoy nonfiction as much as fiction and I want to be fair. But considering I actually started reading this on the train around Christmas of...2015? and then set it aside for literal years until returning to it this past Christmas and finally completing it, I went with a kind of "meh" rating.

I think it's just the fact that the author frequently comes across as kind of arrogant about food, and then he has all this money to blow on experimenting with food and traveling to foreign countries to write about food, etc. If I was trying to make the perfect pie crust and had to keep buying Crisco and flour, I would cry. I don't have that kind of money or time.

I mean, I get it. He's a food writer. It's what he does. He's allowed to be arrogant about food, technically. I just have a hard time reading a book when the narrator/protagonist is like that, unless they're constantly being taken down a peg. I'm 100% sure it's because I'm from the Midwest.

All that said, I really enjoyed the last few chapters, which I read today - the "back of the box recipes" chapter and the "pie" chapter in particular. He seems more relaxed to me in these chapters than in others - like the "mashed potato" chapter, which I remember with clarity even though I haven't read it in over a year. He goes on and on about how you simply must use a ricer to mash the potatoes, or you'll compromise the integrity of the starch cells, and your potatoes will turn out - gasp! - dry, gluey, or some other adjective that's horrible when it comes to food.

All I could think was, "...I think you may just suck at making mashed potatoes."

ANYWAY. Sorry. I wanted to say more about what I enjoyed about it, because obviously I did enjoy it pretty well or it wouldn't have gotten three stars after I took over a year to finish reading it.

The style is really enjoyable, and there's a lot of humor in the book. Especially in the chapters I read today, where Steingarten takes himself less seriously and pokes fun at himself - how he wanted to impress Marion Cunningham, who stresses simplicity, with his perfect pie crust and then reveal that it took some complicated procedure. Only then, of course, his pie crusts didn't achieve the desired effects or were even complete disasters, so then when Marion came for a visit she helped him make a pie crust, which was both the epitome of simplicity and perfectly flaky, crisp, and tender.

(That chapter actually made me feel like maybe I could make a pie crust, which is amazing because I think of myself as a terrible baker despite all evidence to the contrary.)

It was also fascinating to read about cuisines from around the world, subtle differences in ingredients that make huge differences to the finished product, and advances in food technology. There were fun facts and recipes sprinkled throughout - I've shelved this with our cookbooks, and I want to at least try that pie crust recipe! ...more

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Jul 03, 2020 Michael Huang rated it liked it

A wide ranging book about food/eating from a magazine food critic. As you can imagine, he's obsessed about food and knowledge of food and did a lot of reading (e.g., of the 341 papers written on mashed potatoes, he found 30 seemed especially worth reading :). The result is one good section on the science of potato mashing. He will also tell you about all the bottled water he tasted and tested and teach you on how to ripen fruit (put a ripe banana with the fruit in a paper bag and let the ethylen ...more

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About Jeffrey Steingarten

Jeffrey Steingarten

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Jeffrey Steingarten is an American lawyer and culinary critic/columnist. He is a regular columnist for Vogue magazine. He has also written for Slate. His 1997 book of food-related essays, The Man Who Ate Everything, is a Julia Child Book Award winner and was also a James Beard Book Award finalist. In 2002, Steingarten published a second collection of essays entitled It Must've Been Something I Ate ...more

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“Whenever I travel to the South, the first thing I do is visit the best barbecue place between the airport and my hotel. An hour or two later I visit the best barbecue place between my hotel and dinner.” — 7 likes

“But the goal of the arts, culinary or otherwise, is not to increase our comfort. That is the goal of an easy chair.” — 7 likes

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