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North Shore Chronicles: Big-Wave Surfing in Hawaii

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4.14  ·  Rating Details ·  21 Ratings  ·  2 Reviews
In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunni ...more
Paperback, 248 pages
Published August 5th 2005 by Frog Books (first published 1999)
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Keone Betanzos
Oct 06, 2014 Keone Betanzos rated it really liked it


Have you ever ridden a roller coaster? The feeling you get in your stomach as you are about take that first drop of the ride, that is almost equivalent as the feeling you get when you drop in on a huge wave if not more. In the book North Shore Chronicles Big- Wave Surfing in Hawaii by Bruce Jenkins you get to visualize the experiences of these big waves that these surfers encounter in Hawaii.
This book does not only talk about it but shows pictures of the waves these professional big wave rider
...more
Susan Reed
Sep 29, 2015 Susan Reed rated it liked it
Shelves: non-fiction
good stories, sometimes wordy and convoluted
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Bruce Jenkins, a San Francisco Chronicle columnist twice nominated for the Pulitzer Prize, is the author of "Goodbye: In Search of Gordon Jenkins," "Shop Around: Growing Up With Motown in a Sinatra Household," "North Shore Chronicles: Big-Wave Surfing in Hawaii," and " A Good Man: The Pete Newell Story."

A 1966 graduate of Santa Monica High School, he earned a B.A. in journalistic studies at UC Be
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