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Everest: The West Ridge

(Sierra Club Exhibit Format Series #12)

Thomas F. Hornbein

4.19 · Rating details · 486 ratings · 48 reviews

"Not only did Hornbein play a crucial role in one of the most extraordinary accomplishments in the history of mountaineering, his account of the feat is one of the finest things ever written about this peculiar, hazardous, and uncommonly engaging pursuit." --Jon Krakauer
* Special anniversary edition to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Mount Everest ...more

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ebook, Anniversary Edition, 304 pages

Published March 13th 2013 by Mountaineers Books (first published 1966)

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Aug 28, 2016 Duane rated it really liked it · review of another edition

Shelves: non-fiction, reviewed-books, rated-books, memoir

The first successful summit attempts of Mt. Everest occurred in the mid 20th century. Of course the first, and most historical, was achieved in 1953 by a British expedition when Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first to stand on the top of the world. Their route was up the southeast ridge, still the most used route today. The Chinese were the first to conquer the famous northeast ridge in 1960. Famous because because of the earlier, and unsuccessful, British attempts from that side. ...more

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Mar 27, 2010 Jake rated it really liked it · review of another edition

Shelves: non-fiction, everest-lit

"Here man seemed to be reaching for something. His grip was tenuous, inconsequential, yet full of beauty and meaning." -The Author

I'm not a mountain climber. I read Everest books to grapple with the existential issues, and to contemplate how I might take my lifestyle up a notch using the climber's principles. I would not recommend Everest: The West Ridge for first-time readers of this subgenre. Start with Into Thin Air , Dead Lucky , or Touching My Father's Soul A Sherpa's Journey to t "Here man seemed to be reaching for something. His grip was tenuous, inconsequential, yet full of beauty and meaning." -The Author

I'm not a mountain climber. I read Everest books to grapple with the existential issues, and to contemplate how I might take my lifestyle up a notch using the climber's principles. I would not recommend Everest: The West Ridge for first-time readers of this subgenre. Start with Into Thin Air , Dead Lucky , or Touching My Father's Soul A Sherpa's Journey to the Top of Everest . From page one, these books struck me as more accessible.

Hornbein's book, published by The Mountaineers Books, gives a technical account of pioneering a new route to the summit. The first third of the book seemed bogged down in logistics. I would imagine it's engrossing stuff for serious mountaineers, but for layman like me, it's harder to find intellectual purchase in these chapters.

This is not to say that I found this book boring or inhuman. Hornbein adeptly constructs his own layered identity as the protagonist. He starts out as a cool customer, almost disinterested with this large, premiere American expedition in 1963. Yet as the story unfolds, his deep desire to conquer the mysterious ridge begins bubbling to the surface.

Hornbein paints with a fine stroke, both in describing the landscape and the climbers. He and his climbing partner Willi Unsoeld become a multi-faceted duo, at once supporting and competing with each other as they belay up and down the ice and rock. This offers more than a few moments of laugh-out-loud humor to balance out the tension.

Hornbein ends the book on a paradoxical note, questioning the merits of an unquestionably successful expedition. It's a perfectly justified conclusion. Still, it felt like a hasty wrap-up to a surprisingly deep and cerebral work. I also felt other writers have done more justice to the Sherpas, an ethnic group who largely come off as simple-minded employees here. Similarly, Hornbein's wife at home is relegated to the status of emotional motif rather than being an integral character.

In any case, Hornbein climbed the mountain. I sure haven't. And he tells the story with a deliberateness and nuance that I really respected. I highly recommend this book to readers interested in a deeper exploration of climbing Everest, especially as relates to the internal politics of large national expedition. ...more

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Sep 24, 2020 Naren rated it it was amazing · review of another edition

Hands down, one of the best Everest/climbing books I've read. No politics, all camaraderie, grit and eloquence. Some amazing photos to boot. ...more

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May 01, 2017 bri rated it it was amazing · review of another edition

Like all books about Everest I was riveted. This book is about the 1963 summit of Mt Everest via the west ridge. (Ueli Steck who just died this weekend was planning on summiting via this route). I really enjoyed reading this book; though I enjoy reading all books about Everest, so take that with a grain of salt. I struggled with some of the technical detail about climbing as I am not a climber. I also really wished there were more maps to reference. The pictures, even though they were from 1963, ...more

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Apr 13, 2016 lynn rated it really liked it · review of another edition

Always enjoy reading mountaineering books. You can just feel the passion and drive of these individuals who seek the highest peaks despite the risks involved. This is the story of the first summiting of Everest by the west route. Meeting their goals and the interaction between the climbers, who each have their own agenda and big egos, is always interesting. Managing to achieve those goals while still getting along may be the biggest challenge on the mountain. Hornbeam is somewhat different as he ...more

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Jan 14, 2010 Jennifer rated it liked it · review of another edition

Shelves: read-in-2010, nonfiction, mountaineer-or-travel-adventure, survival

I wish he'd spent less time on logistics and decisions leading up to the climb, but it's still a very interesting account of the first ascent of the West Ridge. Also very interesting to read about a climb in 1963 since the technology available to them was so vastly different from today. They really had to rely on grit and experience. ...more

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Sep 28, 2012 Mihai rated it it was amazing · review of another edition

Shelves: mountaineering, nat-geo-100-greatest-adventures

A recollection of one of the greatest achievements in mountaineering history, that is both meditative and funny. The 1963 American Everest Expedition put 6 people on the summit, two of them (including Hornbein) blazing a route up the West Ridge that has never been equaled. This book does utmost justice to the seemingly overused phrase, "a triumph of the human spirit." ...more

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Nov 18, 2013 James Moss rated it it was amazing

Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award Classics Award for 2013. One of the best books ever written on climbing Mt. Everest

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Mar 16, 2018 Keith A. rated it really liked it · review of another edition

In late May, 1963, two men, having spent the night at 27,000 feet on a ledge carved out of ice on a sheer cliff face, begin the final ascent to the highest place on Earth, Mt. Everest, 29,029 feet above sea level. They are climbing without fixed ropes, freestyle, with no support team and no chance of rescue. They are wearing reindeer-skin boots, woolen pants, shirts and mitts and windbreaker jackets. Except for rudimentary oxygen tanks and masks, they are without any of the high tech gear that i In late May, 1963, two men, having spent the night at 27,000 feet on a ledge carved out of ice on a sheer cliff face, begin the final ascent to the highest place on Earth, Mt. Everest, 29,029 feet above sea level. They are climbing without fixed ropes, freestyle, with no support team and no chance of rescue. They are wearing reindeer-skin boots, woolen pants, shirts and mitts and windbreaker jackets. Except for rudimentary oxygen tanks and masks, they are without any of the high tech gear that is standard to even the lowliest mountaineer today. It is an achievement in mountaineering that is in many ways unrivaled for its sheer audacity and, unless you are a climbing aficionado, largely unknown. This is the story told in “Everest: The West Ridge” by Tom Hornbein, one of the two men that made the historic summit of Everest by the previously untried West Ridge. Told in an almost matter of fact and humble manner, it is the stuff every boy and most men dream of privately. Of facing death, going on anyway, and winning. It is the stuff of legends and dreams.

Climbing Everest by a route no man had ever tried before. Knowing that they could not reach the summit with time to get down. Knowing that the route they chose did not allow them to turn back or retreat. Hornbein never admits it in this book, but he had to know that death was more probable than survival. And still they made the decision to go forward, a conscious decision in my mind that left only success or death as the two possible outcomes. Hornbein dances near to this issue throughout the book, but for some reason never tackles it head on. Maybe it was a decision he did not want to admit to for some reason. But when faced with the opportunity to do what no man had ever done before, even if it meant his death, he pushed on and grasped for the gold ring, and then spent the better part of the rest of his life trying to pretend it was no big deal.

Only dumb luck and iron will saved them. But they succeeded, the gods smiled at their audacity and will to succeed. There are two kinds of bravery and heroism I think. The first kind occurs when you have a split second to react, to save a life or lives with little time to think or ponder. The second kind occurs when you have lots of time to think. When the only life at risk is yours. When the easiest course is to turn back and no one would think the worse of you. But you move ahead anyway, knowing the two outcomes are success or death. That is a special kind of heroism and the subject of this book. Serendipity and luck also course through this story. How it never could have happened without the alignment of the heavens and almost mystical providence. The other key element I took from this book is how, when served up similar circumstances, men react and behave so differently. How some men, experienced mountaineers and strong climbers, never acclimated to altitude and suffered cruel defeat while supposedly lesser men soared to glory and thrived in the inhospitable environment presented to them. How is it that the man recruited to be the radio operator, needed to provide a willing back for manual labor because of the illness of others, ends up on the North ridge of Everett at 27,000 feet blazing a trail to the final camp?

I highly recommend this book, as well as the excellent historical recounting of the expedition The Vast Unknown, by Broughton Coburn.
...more

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Oct 09, 2020 Peter McGinn rated it really liked it · review of another edition

I really enjoyed this book, one of the dozens (hundreds?) out there describing ascents of Mt. Everest. To me it seems to represent a literary bridge between the dry, factual accounts of early mountaineering expeditions, and the vivid, sometimes explosive tell-all books on the bestseller lists more recently.

And in fact, some reviewers state that this book is indeed one of those old-time dry accounts, but I disagree. Yes, the writing is more formal, in the way that classic fiction (Dickens) was mo ...more

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Jul 24, 2018 Weysan rated it it was ok · review of another edition

Shelves: mountaineering

In reading the book, I realized that just because one has had the opportunity to experience something extraordinary, doesn't automatically necessitate good writing. *Duh! I know* I was in awe of Tom Hornbein’s personal journey; not only did he have the guts to venture into the unknown, but he also survived overnight in Everest! All those elements combined made me have high hopes for this book, until I realized, to my disappointment, that the writing was quite stilted. :( In here, I found a man ...more

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Nov 29, 2019 Brandon Carter rated it it was amazing · review of another edition

This is the story of the first Americans to summit Mt. Everest in 1963. I went looking for it because it was cited several times in “Into Thin Air.”

It isn’t a minute by minute, blow by blow account of the climb, but there’s enough of that here to be satisfying. However it offers a fascinating look into the logistics of putting together an Everest expedition.

If “Into Thin Air” is more of an accessible every man’s book about Everest, “The West Ridge” is written more to an audience that is familiar ...more

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Feb 24, 2018 Radu Cristian Neagoe rated it really liked it · review of another edition

An impressive tale about some of the first bravesmen to mount the Everest through a never before taken route, in the 1960s, back when there was not much advanced technology, and people had to carry extremely heavy oxygen tanks with them, this book teaches you a bit about bravery, recklessness, endurance, and the mental battle with yourself, when faced with a seemingly impossible challenge, that somehow becomes possible. Written by one of the participants, it might be the closest sensation will g ...more

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Mar 01, 2019 Wandering Wizard rated it it was amazing · review of another edition

4.5 stars. A good account of the American 1963 Everest expedition. Lots of good photos to accompany the main text. The only slight downside - little has been described about the final summit day as well as the descent. It gets over in a jiffy esp. when compared to the lengthy descriptions of the preparation days (even when they were killing time on Base/Adv Base camps). But may be it is just me trying to nitpick things. The climb itself was a great achievement and still is by any standards. So a ...more

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Aug 29, 2019 Alexrose rated it really liked it · review of another edition

Just wanted to read it a while ago after seeing Hornbein's interview with Jon Krakauer (Into Thin Air); I love the way it's written and the story is quite entertaining, especially after they crossed the 26ooo ft line. Also, have to point it out, there are a slew of pictures in the book, so you'll grasp the atmosphere and surroundings, since sometimes it's hard to imagine how the Cwm or Lhotse face looks like, of course you can easily google it, however the pictures taken back at the time are wor ...more

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May 05, 2020 Jean Dupenloup rated it really liked it · review of another edition

Shelves: mountain-climbing

Tom Horbein’s classic account is a canonic work of Everest literature.

In this thrilling memoir, Doctor Horbein relates his ascent of the west ridge of Mount Everest along with superstar mountaineer Willi Unsoeld.

The climb, cutting edge at the time (and to this day for that matter) was a landmark feat that ushered the start of new standards for Himalayan alpine climbing.

Well written, a fascinating story, and a good measure of humanity...Doctor Horbein weaves quite a tale.

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Jun 09, 2019 Erika rated it liked it · review of another edition

From the blurb I read about this book in a previous Everest book, I expected a lot of facts about the emotional states and inner workings of Hornbein's Everest team. There was a little information about some of the differences of opinion and conflicts, but it was a pretty superficial look at the expedition. The photos were wonderful. ...more

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Aug 21, 2020 Lynn Hancock rated it really liked it · review of another edition

Shelves: non-fiction

Hornbein's writing is clear, technical, and occasionally philosophical or exciting. I enjoyed reading his account of climbing the West Ridge and would recommend it to other climbers, but probably not to the lay person. ...more

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Nov 17, 2017 Brendan rated it it was amazing · review of another edition

A fantastic summit account. Nowhere near as tragic as the 1996 disaster, yet still fraught with peril.

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Feb 22, 2018 J.B. rated it it was amazing

Awesome perspective on a mountainous adventure

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Jan 28, 2019 Colin rated it it was amazing · review of another edition

A great teal of an outstanding first ascent of Everest's West Ridge. Enjoyed the adventure of the American efforts on Everest. ...more

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Jun 03, 2019 Brittany rated it liked it · review of another edition

Way too many quotes, so I skipped a lot of those, but an interesting tale of an Everest expedition charting a new route up and over the mountain.

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Apr 05, 2020 Erik Johnson rated it it was amazing · review of another edition

As a fellow mountaineer in California, while I have never climbed in Tibet, the story is true of all mountaineers and taps into deep our psyche. a riveting story of pushing the limits

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Jan 13, 2021 Edmund Rudell rated it really liked it · review of another edition

I checked out the hardcover from the library. Good story and even better pictures in this edition.

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Mar 15, 2017 Brodyn rated it did not like it

beautiful cover deathly boring read. very american.

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May 19, 2013 Roger rated it liked it · review of another edition

Shelves: mountaineering

Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld are written into the history of Mt. Everest, being the first team to ascend via the West Ridge (in 1963), the first to traverse the mountain, and bivouac overnight above 8000 metres. The Hornbein Couloir on the North Face of Everest was named for Tom during the 1963 expedition. Everest : the West Ridge is Hornbein's recollection of that expedition, drawn from his diary notes and transcripts of meetings and radio conversations that took place during the expedition.

T Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld are written into the history of Mt. Everest, being the first team to ascend via the West Ridge (in 1963), the first to traverse the mountain, and bivouac overnight above 8000 metres. The Hornbein Couloir on the North Face of Everest was named for Tom during the 1963 expedition. Everest : the West Ridge is Hornbein's recollection of that expedition, drawn from his diary notes and transcripts of meetings and radio conversations that took place during the expedition.

The book begins on the trek to Base Camp, with meditations on Hornbein's friend Unsoeld, on why people attempt to summit mountains, and Everest in particular, and on the beginnings of the idea to try the West Ridge. Norman Dyhrenfurth, the leader of the expedition, had gathered sponsors on the basis that the expedition's aims were to climb Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse, and do some scientific work. Some of the climbers, led by Hornbein and Unsoeld, felt that retracing the steps of others up the South Col route was not pure mountaineering, and formed a view that it would be better to try and forge a new route up the mountain.

It was agreed, on the march in to Base Camp, that while the South Col route would be the main focus of the climbers, men and equipment would be sent across to those who wished to try the West Ridge. The politics of this division of attention take up a decent portion of the book as events unfold, and the pressure to put aside enough materiel for the West Ridge attempt told on tempers and friendships. Hornbein in particular was a big advocate for attempting the Ridge, and this put him offside with many members of the expedition at times.

When the West Ridge team finally got the go-ahead to try their route - after the South Col team were successful - they had a small window of opportunity to get the job done. They had to weather a terrible storm at Camp 4, where the team was very nearly blown off the mountain, before Hornbein and Unsoeld could head to the summit.

They realised, as the summit day unfolded, that it would be impossible for them to return by the route they climbed, and so the traverse became a reality. Summiting at a very late hour, near sunset, they descended on unfamiliar terrain towards the South Summit. Night fell, and they were left without light as their headtorches died. Hornbein and Unsoeld knew that Barry Bishop and Lute Jerstad had summited the same day via the South Col route as they were following their footsteps, and they found them huddled exhausted in the snow near the South Summit. Hornbein and Unsoeld got the other two up on their feet and attempted to reach Camp Six on the South side of Everest. They failed, and spent the rest of that night huddled in the snow.

When the sun rose they found their way to Camp Six and safety. The final moving chapter of the story is when Unsoeld departs for Kathmandu via helicopter, wrenched away from Hornbein before they could really comprehend what they had achieved together.

Hornbein, in the coda to the work, meditates on the meaning of the whole venture. He has never returned to the Himalaya.

This is not the best mountaineering book that I have read - I somehow feel strangely short-changed by the lack of focus on the mountaineering. But, given the historic nature of the events chronicled, I'd have to say this is a must-read for any armchair Everesters out there.

Check out my other reviews at http://aviewoverthebell.blogspot.com.au/ ...more

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Jan 19, 2015 Dan rated it it was amazing · review of another edition

I was fortunate to get a copy of the Sierra Club Exhibit Format version of this book from my public library. This is a big book - about 14" x 18" - with beautiful full-page color photographs. It's about 200 pages, with numerous short sayings, poems, essays, excerpts, etc, interspersed with the photos and with the text of the book. It's easy to love this book.

And mostly I do. I did find the first third of the book, about the logistics, and about getting CLOSE to Everest, a little slow - I did ski ...more

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Nov 11, 2016 Al Bergstein rated it it was amazing · review of another edition

Most Americans that care about writing of the outdoors, have probably read Jim Whittaker's biography, in which he describes the incredible assent of Everest in 1963, the first by Americans. While Whittaker's book is excellent, the real secondary and less known drama of that expedition was the amazing summiting of the West Ridge by two other members of the expedition. That feat, is still considered one of the most remarkable climbs of mountaineering history. Tom Hornbein was one of the two that d ...more

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Oct 02, 2012 Doug Canfield rated it it was amazing · review of another edition

Mountaineers Books Staffer: Another mountaineering classic on the Mountaineers Books list. In 1963, Jim Whittaker became the first American to set foot on the summit of Mt. Everest. While the summit team was pushing to the top, two young less-accomplished members of the team, sat in base camp wondering how they might make their mark.

"Everest: The West Ridge" is the story of Tom Hornbein and Willy Unsoeld's big idea: "Let's try summitting by the West Ridge", something that no one had ever done. T ...more

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Apr 08, 2013 William rated it really liked it · review of another edition

Wow--still a mountaineering classic. More humans have walked on the moon than successfully summited Everest via the West Ridge---and to read how what was really a small splinter group of alpine-style climbers split off the main 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition (AMEE) and not only successfully climbed to the summit but accomplished the first traverse of Everest (they descended via the South Col route). Hornbein captures the tension between the "West ridgers" and the other traditional route ...more

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