On the Ridge Between Life and Death: A Climbing Life Reexamined

by David Roberts

What compels mountain climbers to take the risks that they do? Is it the thrill in the physical accomplishment, in managing to defy the odds, or both -- and why do they continue to do what they do in the face of such great danger? In On the Ridge Between Life and Death, David Roberts confronts these questions head-on as he recounts the exhilarating highs and desperate lows of his climbing career. By the time he was twenty-two, Roberts had already been involved in three fatal mountain climbing accidents and had escaped death himself by the sheerest of luck. And yet, as he acknowledges, few things have brought him more joy than climbing.

In a famous essay on the subject written more than twenty years ago, Roberts judged climbing to be "worth the risk." He continues to climb to this day, and several of his challenging routes in Alaska have never been climbed since. But in reassessing the emotional costs to himself and to loved ones, he reaches a different conclusion, one that is sure to cause controversy not only in climbing circles, but among adventurers of all kinds. Candid and unflinching, On the Ridge Between Life and Death is a compelling examination of the risks we take in order to feel more alive.

Genres: Adventure, Mountaineering, Nonfiction, Memoir, Climbing, Sports, Travel

432 pages, Paperback

First published August 23, 2005

About the author

Librarian Note: There is more than one author in the GoodReads database with this name.
See this thread for more information.

David Roberts is the award-winning author of twenty-nine books about mountaineering, exploration, and anthropology. His most recent publication, Alone on the Wall, was written with world-class rock climber Alex Honnold, whose historic feats were featured in the film Free Solo.

Reviews

[Maria V. Snyder · Rating 4 out of 5]

On belay!

This was an interesting memoir about the author. I'm an armchair adventurer so I enjoy reading about people willing to risk their lives to climb mountains (or reach the pole, etc.). This book was slow in places - too many details - and, of course, it was very focused on the author - I would have liked more insight into his friends and family (and more emotion - he reported everything in a very calm and dry tone). I did get more insight into why people chose to climb either as sport or a profession and I learned quite a bit about climbing.

Off belay!

[Sharon Watkins · Rating 2 out of 5]

I am a sucker for mountaineering books; I can't get enough of them. So I thought I had a winner in this book, in which David Roberts promises to tackle the difficult issue of why people keep climbing when it is so dangerous and so many climbers, even highly skilled and experienced ones, lose their lives. What a disappointment. On the Ridge Between Life and Death is instead a catalog of Roberts' 13 expeditions to Alaska, interspersed with occasional musings on the deaths of climbing partners and colleagues, surprisingly graphic (and unnecessary)descriptions of his youthful sexual encounters, and some old codger complaints about the young people he oversaw on outward bound-style climbing excursions. Roberts is billed to be Jon Krakauer's climbing mentor, and that well may be. But Krakauer could show him a thing or three about writing a compelling narrative. Roberts has a PhD in creative writing, and he wants to make sure you know it. I kept thinking, 'dude, step away from the thesaurus.' I am giving the book 2 stars instead of 1 because I did find some of the descriptions of the Alaska climbs interesting.

[James · Rating 2 out of 5]

I thought this was going to be a book about the meaning of life/ climbing/ lost friends...

A little of that, but mostly the author recounting (bragging) about all the climbs he did.
Increasing his books are infused with his bragging.

If you read 2 or more of his books, you'll notice he recycles material he used in other books, again, and again, and again...

I started climbing at 17, did a lot for 30 years & in that time
17 people I personally met got the chop some time later in the mountains.

Most I found out about their death by reading the AAC's
accidents in NA mountaineering annual.
I'm sure there are others who've died,
I didn't happen to learn of it.

None died while climbing with me,
I was surprised how many times people died in front of the author.
He may have set a record there.

There was one climbing partner I had to take to the hospital
3 times, once after skiing, 2 times after climbing.
Before I met him he took a tumble down a European mt &
his girlfriend died.

After the 3rd trip, I told him I'd never taken any one else to the
hospital one time, let alone 3 times.

After that he quit climbing.
Most likely a very wise decision.

He was a nice guy, I still don't know why he fell so often,
the last time he slipped down a steep heather slope 20 feet
and wearing shorts, got a bad burn on his leg.
And lost a little skin.
The other 4 people in the party had no problem.

There must have been something going on in his head
that the rest of us couldn't know of.

[Chhaya · Rating 3 out of 5]

I'm in two minds about this climbing memoir. On the one hand, the writing was overwrought and navel-gazey and there was this unnecessary and weird second chapter on his high school sexcapades. And I actually just didn't like the guy through most of the book because I found him to be irresponsible and selfish. He has a great adventure story to tell but he doesn't always tell it that well and he clutters it up with too much other stuff.

That said, the reason to read this book is the last chapter in which he explores why people climb, why they're willing to take such risks and how they deal with the inevitable tragedies. Roberts doesn't spare himself from reexamination either and rethinks the deaths he's witnessed and deals with their consequences. Also important, he doesn't short-shrift to those who are left behind by dead climbers.

So, I think I'll skip any other memoirs David Roberts writes and perhaps stick to his essays and articles, especially those about other people.

[Pat · Rating 3 out of 5]

I met Roberts in Boulder when he was researching this memoir. I'd forgotten about it until recently, when a friend died climbing in Alaska -- the scene of many of the author's greatest accomplishments. On the Ridge is his reassessment, from the vantage of his 60s, of a climbing life (and the deaths of many friends) and whether it was all worth it. It isn't great literature -- Roberts' language is too often overwrought, but when he hits his stride, he's a fine storyteller and a thoughtful memoirist. I'm glad I read it.

[John · Rating 3 out of 5]

Roberts is more than a little insufferable, but I certainly admire such exploits.

[SamWoehl · Rating 3 out of 5]

I’m torn about this one, which is probably a good thing because that’s was - I think - how Roberts would want us to feel after reading. He is an excellent writer and can easily describe technical climbing effortlessly which is difficult to do. In the beginning, I enjoyed this tone, he clearly saw the follies of his youth. He paints himself in a honest and disparaging light which I admire his bravery for doing. Of course the last chapter is excellent and the most honest things I’ve ever read.

As the book progressed however, I was uncertain whether the egotistical tone he used to describe himself was upfront honestly or a part of himself he is still unaware of. Even after the passing of years and the loss of friends, he never seemed to gain much humility. He was happy to put down his friends’ approaches to climbing, judge people by the grades they climbed at, disparage climbers who backed away from the risk to be teachers, husbands, and fathers. I was appalled at his mountaineering school approach, where he ached to get away from his own students and scoffed at their wealth and attitude. All he seemed to care about was how much talent they came into the program with and whether or not they could be cultivated into lead climbers. I’m sure that he would have made me feel very small and unimportant if he ever came across my own timid approach to climbing.

In the end, Roberts (especially a young Roberts) is the sort of climber I make sure to never climb with. He represents the exact machismo that still permeates the climbing world today. I had to seek out climbers like Beth Rodden and Hazel Findlay for an antidote and to feel like I belonged. While I know that Roberts sees the folly of those attitudes, I can still tell he struggles with them. Not to mention falling into the same old joke: How do you know that Roberts went to Harvard? He’ll tell you… in every chapter.

[Brian · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is the best book I've read in a long, long time. In this book, David Roberts seeks to answer two questions: Why do we climb and is it worth the risk? To the former, he seems to think people climb for ego and pride. To the later, he seems to think it isn't. After all the friends he lost in the mountains, it's easy to see why. To me, climbing is about exploring. I don't really care to climb things that have never been climbed before. I just want to see what's around the next corner or over the next ridge. I don't expect to ever want to put up a first ascent on some remote mountain in Alaska, so the risks to me will be substantially less than to Roberts. Nonetheless, this book really highlighted just how dangerous it is every time you head into the mountains and hammered home just how important it is to make good decisions.

[maria helena · Rating 2 out of 5]

This is not necessary a bad book, but it fell short for me. I've read so many mountaineering books that were much better than this one.

[Peter Corrigan · Rating 4 out of 5]

David Roberts was apparently one of the best known 'adventure' writers and a big climber though I never heard of him, which means little. But this was a pretty frank and honest appraisal of his own life and the title was appropriate. Interestingly, he grew up in Boulder, CO and his father was Walter Orr Roberts who is credited with founding NCAR (National Center for Atmospheric Research). I visited Boulder several times for training and of course the 'Flatirons' dominate the local vista. The book starts with a tragic incident on that steep face and goes on from there. He chronicles his many expeditions in some great detail especially repeated trips to the Alaska Range and Brooks Range, most of which occurred in this twenties. An entire range (the Revelation Mountains) and numerous peaks were named by him and or his partners. Other tragic climbing events occur and the book seems to be a real effort for him to reconcile the knife-edge between thrill, accomplishment and the ever-present risk of death or serious injury. His many years later efforts to reconcile with the family of his young climbing partner tragically killed when both were really just kids are admirable and riveting. But overall he is not exactly a likeable guy, Mr. Roberts. Arrogant and selfish are the dominant characteristics that emerge from his own life story and words but you have to admire him for not 'sugar-coating' much about himself or others. They would call him 'privileged' these days too I suppose. Certainly he was brilliant and deeply motivated and that comes across too. It is also a story of his evolution into a writer and that made the book far more than another climbing story. He ended up writing about two dozen books and many hundreds of articles. Along the way he meets a young student and superb climber as well, named John Krakauer and Roberts takes a lot of credit for pushing Krakauer to become a writer. Some great books emerged from however that occurred. On the Ridge Between Life and Death was written in 2005 and many say that it is his best, though there are several others that look really interesting. I read that Roberts just died in 2021 after a long, tough fight with cancer. He was a 'hard guy' as the Alaska expeditions in horrific weather and extreme climbing challenges attest you almost wonder how felt about that challenge compared to the others. Falling off a mountain doing what you love might have seemed preferable amidst that ordeal but those are not choices accorded us mortals and I don't know that he ever wrote of it.

[Dace Znotiņa · Rating 5 out of 5]

Autobiogrāfija, bet daudz plašāk par viena autora dzīvi. Un nav tikai par kalniem, bet arī par citiem notikumiem autora dzīvē un cilvēkiem, ko sastapis. Bet galvenais, kas caurvija šo grāmatu, kas citās nebija tik jūtams - kā ir tad, ja kalnos bojā iet tavs sasaistes partneris, kuru pie tam esi pats uzaicinājis un pārbaudījis viņa drošināšanu? Un kas notiek ar šī bojāgājušā ģimeni, draigiem un citiem tuviniekiem? Vai mēs katrs, pieņemot lēmumu riskēt ar savu dzīvību, vispār padomājam, kādu ietekmi negadījums atstās uz citiem. Un vai vispār ir godīgi šādus lēmumus pieņemt par sevi vai par kādu citu?

[Susan · Rating 3 out of 5]

2 1/2 This is, disappointingly, not "A Climbing Life Reexamined". It is "Chronicles of MY Climbing Life". A self-centered recitation of the author's alpine climbs. Every one in boring detail (full disclosure:I am not a climber, but I have read and enjoyed many books written by climbers). He starts with a climb as a teen with his best friend. Tragedy ensues. Then he climbed with several others who died. But he has nothing really to say about what all this meant to him, no more than he offers any real reflections on getting his teen-aged girlfriend pregnant. It might have been a really good memoir if it had offered up any emotion.

[Jean Dupenloup · Rating 5 out of 5]

My favorite David Roberts book, and probably the best memoir on mountaineering I have ever read.

Before he was even out of college, Mr. Roberts had witnessed four deaths in the mountains, two of them close friends and climbing partners of his.

In this autobiography, Mr. Roberts revisits these deaths, along with the general arc of his life, and how his relationship with risk and death has evolved.

A must-read for any mountaineering aficionado!

[Luke Palau · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesting to see so many reviews complaining of Roberts “rehashing” of his previous works. What were you expecting from an autobiography? While wordy at times, for the knowledgable climber this book is easy to follow and forces a nostalgia for a bygone area that some (like myself) will never experience. Roberts conclusions to the eternal questions of climbing are frustratingly open-ended at first, but show an attempt at true introspection. Worth the read; enjoyed it thoroughly.

[C. Michael · Rating 4 out of 5]

Roberts is a fine writer and does not shy away from telling some difficult stories from his past. The book is excruciating in some places, especially when he is writing about some of the mistakes of his early life. It's especially interesting for climbers, but maybe not as much so for those who don't find themselves interested in the details of the routes and mountains Roberts has climbed.

[Kasey Lawson · Rating 1 out of 5]

An uninspired, rehashed memoir that mostly covers material that was already explored in his more inspiring books, “The Mountain of My Fear” and “Deborah: A Wilderness Narrative.”

“In the human heart, however, there are nobler feelings than pride. And there are more important things than joy.”

[Lawrence Plummer · Rating 4 out of 5]

As someone who climbed for over 20 years, starting in college, I felt very attached to David's book. I've read many of his books before, but this was a nice summary of his life.

[Mike · Rating 4 out of 5]

In a world before gortex, cams, and freedom of the hills there were mountaineers and adventurers who pushed the limits in some of the harshest and most remote conditions on the planet. David Roberts is certainly one of those individuals. This book is a must read for any aspiring, intermediate, or seasoned hiker/climber/mountaineer. He recounts many of his famous first ascents in Alaska as a 20-something year old. The book does a good job of showing the great perils and great successes that come from mountaineers, especially for younger climbers. Throughout the book he talks about why he chooses to climb and through his own successes and failures he tries to hammer home the point that "there are old climbers and there are bold climbers, but there are no old bold climbers".



I found it hard to identify with such a hardened climber such as Roberts. He was involved in three fatal climbing accidents before his 22nd birthday and witnessed many more in his long career as a mountaineer. Yet despite our differences in the traumatic, I found myself identifying with his collegiate experiences with the Harvard Mountain Club. I saw many similar emotions and attitudes from similar organizations that I still associate with from college, namely the Tufts Mountain Club and the Vertical Ice Climbing Enthusiasts. We differ in that he identifies himself as a climber first and foremost, I on the otherhand identify myself as a fit 20-something that enjoys the physical, mental, and emotional challenges of mountaineering. Where Roberts has his one love of the mountains, I have many; ice hockey, running, road biking, family, and many others.



Overall I truly enjoyed reading this book, I even missed several stops on my commute to work in the morning because I was so heavily engrossed in this book. Word to the wise, I'd skip over the 60 or so pages where he talks about the awkward sexcapades between him and his high school girlfriend where he reused condoms over a dozen times resulting in her pregnancy and eventual trip to Japan for an illegal abortion. Other than this small detour the book was fantastic.

[Greg Goodrum · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book exemplifies many of the best parts of Roberts' adventure writing. Much more thoughtful and personal than his earlier work, this biography finds Roberts examining the emotion and lifestyle behind the dirtbag glitter of alpine mountaineering. While many of his mountain pursuits are well addressed here, they simply act as background to the story of how the author developed into the person he is today. Though there is some repetition of themes here, primarily about the loss of his first partner and the issues with his first girlfriend, these actually serve to help portray how climbing both causes obsessive thinking and how it can be a very additive escape from one's problems. More than anything, Roberts' candor about his triumphs and failures, which are often intertwined, provides the emotional hook for this work. Leaving the hubris on the mountain, Roberts thoroughly examines the wide range of ways climbing has shaped his life. The humility and honesty is also appreciated from an author who has been known to offend (see his reunion at the end of this book or ask Escalante, UT locals). Roberts simply puts his ego aside and brings readers a engrossing and descriptive story of a life on rope and the consequences of that lifestyle.

[Mike · Rating 5 out of 5]

A well written biography about the life of mountaineer David Roberts. The most facinating aspect of this book is that he reflects on the hazards of mountain climbing and asks "Is it worth it." He was personally involved or present at several fatal climbing accidents. The big question he wrestles with is: "What about the suffering of those who are left behind after the death of the loved one." He had several interactions with the relatives of those who died in the mountains. He realized the pain doesn't go away. Many still suffer the loss of their family members. Can climbing be selfish? Is the risk worth it?

Roberts tells about a conversation he had with Sebastian Junger in which Junger made the distinction between courage and heroism. "Climbing Everest, Junger asserted, takes all kinds of courage, but it should not be called heroic. The writer then offered an apothegmatic formula: 'Heroism is courage in the service of others.'" Maybe it is more courageous to live a "regular" life in service of others than it is to risk our lives in extreme sports.

[Amerynth · Rating 4 out of 5]

David Roberts is quickly becoming one of my favorite climber/writers. "On the Ridge Between Life and Death: A Climbing Life Reexamined" is a memoir, written by Roberts while he was in his 60's and looking back 30-40 years at his climbing expeditions. Roberts is one of those "lucky" climbers who has watched a friend tumble off a mountain and die, but always finishes a climb unscathed. Much of the book deals with the mental turmoil that Roberts suffered and addresses the age-old question about why mountain climbers continue to take the risks and do what they do.

Roberts' memoir is unflinchingly honest as he looks back at some of the more painful events of his life and the reasons why after numerous first ascents in Alaska, he has backed away from mountaineering. The book is well written and compelling... featuring lots of little vignettes about other major players in the world of climbing. Very engrossing and interesting read.

[Katelyn · Rating 4 out of 5]

In this book the author David Roberts is a mountain climber who loves the thrill and adrenaline rush. By the time he is 22 years old he witnesses the death of 3 of his friend while climbing. Now he has to find the strength to keep going. David starts to interview the families of his friends that have died and notices that the wounds haven't healed. He then realizes that climbing is worth the risk and adventure because you have to go out and take risks and live life to the fullest. Now David continues climbing harder spots and is encouraging others to climb and keep going no matter what obstacles get in the way.

This book is unique because the author just has a passion about what he is writing about and can get in to detail about what happened because he lived it. I think people would want to read this book because it is a vivid and dramatic real-life story.

[Sean · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm a sucker for good adventure stories, though I don't read enough of them, a fact I was reminded of when I started reading this book. Don't let the dates here fool you, it only took me that long because it became the book I leave at work to read over my lunch break. This was a compelling read, an introspective look at a life spent, one way or the other, in pursuit of climbing, that managed to mix that introspection with the right blend of tip of your fingers action that one would expect from a book about mountain climbing. Never too heavy on the jargon, and unflinching in his examination of his past - both the ups and the downs on the mountains and elsewhere, this book by itself has made me a fan of the author as writer, and I will be heading to the library to read his other books.

[Michele · Rating 2 out of 5]

A book that didn’t need to be written.With an auto biography, I’d say that the biggest danger is deluding yourself into thinking that maybe, just maybe, you have done something great that other people should read about. Well, Roberts might be a climber, but that is where it ends for me. It is also critical for me that I find redeeming qualities in whoever I am reading about. A person doesn’t have to be a saint, but I definitely have to see them as someone who has something valuable to contribute. Roberts did not meet the above criteria.

For a more detailed review visit http://ireadalotofbooks.com/on-the-ri...

[skye · Rating 3 out of 5]

An excellent reflection on whether dangerous mountaineering is worth the risk. Roberts tells lots of great stories, and usually highlights the moral ambivalence of the many deaths he was involved with or helped cause. All budding mountaineers should read this -- though given the addictive nature of the sport, reason or reflection don't seem to play any role in how mountaineers decide to do what they do. Ultimately, luck will play a large role in who lives and dies. This book includes many chilling stories of those who died. In a way, it confirmed my trajectory to stay away from serious/risky climbing (a trajectory entirely caused by fear, not reason, I should admit.)

[Sheri S. · Rating 3 out of 5]

Roberts reflects on his accomplishments and what he has learned as a mountain climber. He shares his childhood and what led him to pursue so many ascents, particularly in Alaska. He also writes about tragedies he experienced on the mountains and how those impacted him.
He has lead an interesting life and met many people associated with mountaineering. As he has gotten older, his pursuits in nature have increased to incorporate exploring ancient cave drawings as well as other things. I appreciated his style of writing and the manner in which he reflected on his life. I plan to read his early book, The Mountain of My Fear.

[Loren · Rating 4 out of 5]

THis began with one of the mostgripping first chapters in a non-fiction book that I have read. Chapter 2 was a big drop off, but it ramped up after that. The last chapter was an excellent commentray by a climber reflecting on his choices and trying to figure out why he climbs... why he takes the risks that he does, and whether it was all worth it. Short of the very last line that I thought was a bit contrived, this was a great read and gives a different perspective on people that climb at a much higher level than I do.

[Lmcwil · Rating 3 out of 5]

Roberts gets a bit caught up in his own prose from time to time, but overall, a decent read. It's basically a memoir of his entire life; he talks about more than just mountaineering. I particularly enjoyed his references to mountaineering and adventure literature. It's a bit dense at times- if you're not a fast reader, I'd recommend skimming bits when he's not talking about actual climbing or self-examination.

[Erin · Rating 3 out of 5]

The conclusion that the author went to in this book surprised me in a really powerful way. I think that excerpts in this book could probably be used in a masculine studies class. Let's just say that I never thought the uncertainty and fear of a teenage pregnancy (and subsequent abortion) could have laid the psychological framework for pursuing a life of death-defying mountain and rock climbing. Damn. It was powerful.

[Terry · Rating 3 out of 5]

I wanted to read a book about mountains and found this one to be somewhat captivating as it details the personalities of adventurers. The book is balanced between the Alaskan first ascents of the 70s and the deaths of climbing partners. It was interesting to see how athletes time themselves for their limited peak seasons but the best part was probably the last paragraphs as author describes recognizing that friends' deaths affect others beside himself. See other field...