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The 1918 Shikoku Pilgrimage of Takamure Itsue: An English translation of Musume Junreiki

Itsue Takamure,

Susan Tennant (Translator)

3.77 · Rating details · 13 ratings · 5 reviews

A young woman of 24 set off alone in 1918 to walk the 1400 kilometre pilgrimage route around the island of Shikoku. Her dream of a solitary journey ended when an old man of 73 met early on her journey insisted that he accompany her as servant and protector because he believed that she was an attendant of Kannon Bosatsu. This book is her account of their extraordinary ...more

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Paperback, 274 pages

Published March 13th 2010 by Createspace Independent Publishing Platform

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Apr 24, 2013 Charlie Canning rated it it was amazing

Fine translation of a Japanese classic

My first reaction upon reading Tennant's translation of Musume Junreiki, The 1918 Shikoku Pilgrimage of Takamure Itsue was one of surprise. Here is something of quality - how was it that no one had translated this work into English before? Thirty years on the shelf while hundreds of thousands of people made their own circuits around Shikoku, kept their own journals, wrote their own books. Some interesting accounts to be sure, but few more interesting than Fine translation of a Japanese classic

My first reaction upon reading Tennant's translation of Musume Junreiki, The 1918 Shikoku Pilgrimage of Takamure Itsue was one of surprise. Here is something of quality - how was it that no one had translated this work into English before? Thirty years on the shelf while hundreds of thousands of people made their own circuits around Shikoku, kept their own journals, wrote their own books. Some interesting accounts to be sure, but few more interesting than this.

Perhaps it was the style or the tone that put people off. Some of the entries read like a Buddhist harlequin romance: "Life and death are of no concern. I want to acquire faith and a sense of wonder; I want to acquire joy or frenzied passion. Somehow or other, while I am suffering in agony and wailing loudly, I may arrive at an incomparably majestic faith." But if you can get beyond the melodrama and the pathos of the early chapters, there's an authentic voice here that is both prescient and charming: "How can I describe my mind that is poised to penetrate attentively, calmly, and completely clearly this beautiful scene bit by bit, starting from its smallest elements, its minimal, infinitesimal molecules and its compound elements. None the less, the pine trees are green, the sand white, the sea deep blue, the sky sapphire, the clouds are flying, the sun gradually slanting, the birds singing and the trees sparse. Except for those words, I cannot think of any other finer expressions. In front of this superb view, I will just lower my head, close my eyes, and pray silently and sincerely."

Since this is an account of a Buddhist pilgrimage, one can expect a certain amount of religious polemics and there is some of that here. But because Takamure was writing for a newspaper audience, her account is more personal than religious. As the translator has noted in one of the many appendices: "That the pilgrimage was a period of personal transformation for Takamure can be seen if one compares her feelings about her fellow passengers on her way to Shikoku with her feelings on her return voyage."

In fact, you can feel the tone of the book changing incrementally throughout Takamure's journey. At the beginning, she is inclined to be haughty and judgmental: "I have met many in the pilgrim groups and there are various and sundry people. However, if I were to generalize, I think it might be correct to regard them as gray, defeated people." By the time that she reaches Cape Muroto at the southeastern end of Kochi, however, the selfishness has been wrung out of her. Takamure still has her moments - as when she offends the old man who has ably assisted her for months - but she has undergone a noticeable change and it shows up in her prose. By the second half of the book, she is kinder and less affected by the unpleasantness of things. Life is so because it is so. It is not the world that has to change but her self.

For anyone who has done the pilgrimage, Takamure's account rings true. It's all here: the aching bones and sore feet, the beautiful views and the quiet moments of realization. For those new to the pilgrimage, the book is an invitation to one of the greatest peak experiences still available to the modern world. There's a lot more asphalt in Shikoku now and plenty of vending machines, but the route of 88 temples can still take you from the mundane to the divine.

In addition to her the writings about the pilgrimage experience, Takamure was a published poet and feminist author with a wide readership throughout 20th century Japan. Tennant's translation and voluminous appendices now make Takamure Itsue's account of her Shikoku pilgrimage and subsequent re-engagement with the world readily accessible to a much wider audience. ...more

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May 24, 2015 Jenna (Falling Letters) rated it it was amazing

Shelves: japan, 2015, shikoku-henro

Review originally posted 30 November 2015 on Falling Letters.

The 1918 Shikoku Pilgrimage of Takamure Itsue resonated with me in new way. I completed the pilgrimage a few months ago, the same age as Takamure, nearly 100 years after her (though I did it in pieces via a mixture of walking and driving). For these reasons I found Takamure highly relatable. I read the bulk of this book just two months after completing the pilgrimage, but I had already begun to feel nostalgic for the experience. This Review originally posted 30 November 2015 on Falling Letters.

The 1918 Shikoku Pilgrimage of Takamure Itsue resonated with me in new way. I completed the pilgrimage a few months ago, the same age as Takamure, nearly 100 years after her (though I did it in pieces via a mixture of walking and driving). For these reasons I found Takamure highly relatable. I read the bulk of this book just two months after completing the pilgrimage, but I had already begun to feel nostalgic for the experience. This book renewed my journey by allowing me to see the pilgrimage through another young woman's eyes.

This book does not contain information on the pilgrimage. If you're unfamiliar with the pilgrimage, this may not be the best book to start with. In these articles, one finds a chronicle of a young woman's growth over the course of the pilgrimage. I recommend this book if you're planning to or have already undertaken the pilgrimage (or are currently doing so!). Takamure writes more about her personal experience than the pilgrimage itself. Her voice gives a strong flavour to her writing, which is easily readable in this translation (there are places where you can clearly feel the Japanese style of writing). Takamure can be very sassy and very real. Her opinions and attitudes bring her journey to life.

However, there is one thing I can say: nearly one hundred percent of people do not understand the person that I am. I don't care. If they hae doubts about me, it doesn't matter. However, it's annoying that problems arise because of their doubts. So what if I'm young? So what if I'm a woman? So what if I'm traveling alone? (29)

I felt just a little bit discouraged. To the tell the truth, my wallet is already almost empty. Never mind, I have an idea: I will spend all the money I have in Beppu and go around Shikoku without any. That's it - that's what I will do. Living and dying will be up to Divine Providence. (33)

I did not expect to find so much humour in her narration. I laughed out loud many times. One of my favourite anecdotes:

[Some women come to Takamure seeking healing.] "We've heard that you're not an ordinary person." I wondered what on earth I should do. Every time they said this and that, I was downhearted and felt like crying. In the first place, although I explained to them "I'm not that kind of person," they just wouldn't accept what I said. There was nothing I could do, so I immediately pretend to be the God of Boils and said, "It is important for people to have faith. As soon as you return home tonight say three times 'Get better, boil!' and pray to the gods then go to bed. Never doubt my words. Also, consult a doctor in your neighbourhood. This too is a revelation from the God of Boils." Although I did not say that in so many words, I at least told them something to that effect, blushing and turning pale many times. But thank heavens, they prostrated themselves like flat spiders, completely submissive. Ah, unexpectedly I have gained on profession! After I return to Kumamoto, I shall immediately become the God of Boils. (51)

If I say it myself, that was witty, but when I looked behind me, guess what! The little girl was innocently sleeping. (142)

At times Takamure can be melodramatic, at other times poignant. Her relationship with the old man injects some heartfelt emotion into her tale and best illustrates her maturation over the course of this journey. I sometimes forgot she wrote this one hundred years ago. That she wrote these articles at such a young age... I'd like to know what she got up to later in life!

The long dream-like trip is finally over. I expect the world that is soon to come to be more severe, more pressing, and more distressing. However, no matter what kind of scenes I encounter, no matter what kind of threats I receive, no matter what kind of scorn I meet with, once more I make a solemn vow to heaven to absolutely never lose this quiet, sincere, reverent, pure feeling or my integrity. Also, I will continue to embrace everything with warm affection. I will go! I will go! I must go to my majestic battleground. Even if I am smeared and dyed in blood, I must walk the path of virtue, the serious, pure, pious path of virtue. (199)

The translator's notes provide excellent support to the articles. Susan Tennant writes clear explanations on nuances particular to the time and locations where Takamure was writing. I wouldn't have even known to think "What's Takamure talking about here?" were it not for Tennant's notes. For example, a man says, "I'm sure that America is a substantial country because it's on the gold standard. Japan is insignificant because it's on the silver standard." (48). Takamure is unimpressed. The footnote explains that "Both US and Japan were on the gold standard at that time." There are also notes on translation. One example: Takamure writes, "In Shikoku there are many whom local people call corrupt pilgrims..." (49). The footnote shares that "She uses ぐれ [gure], from ぐれる [gureru], to do wrong." Additional segments at the end of the book include a map of the pilgrimage, a few pages about it, and over 20 pages biographical information on Takamure and the significance of her undertaking the pilgrimage. This book is not a basic translation of Takamure's writings. Tennant's work gives greater meaning to Takamure's work, explaining and clarifying the contexts in which she wrote.

A couple of personal notes now. Takamure disappointed me when she glossed over her travels between Temples 19 and 1, the temples nearest to where I lived. That was the bit I was most looking forward to! I still enjoyed her writing, though, so that didn't spoil the book for me. Reading this book made me yearn to return to Shikoku. Many people return to complete the pilgrimage multiple times. I want to do it again, this time completely by walking. I hope to improve my Japanese by that time so I can better converse with fellow travellers.

The Bottom Line: A collection of newspaper articles unlike anything I've encountered before, The 1918 Shikoku Pilgrimage of Takamure Itsue makes for a compelling yet easy read driven by the voice of a bright young woman. A must-read for anyone interested in completing the Shikoku Pilgrimage. ...more

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Oct 15, 2013 Lord Kuz rated it it was amazing

Although this is an account written in the style of newspaper articles (105), this is a very readable account of a young woman's journey on the Shikoku Pilgrimage in 1918. I have read much about the Pilgrimage and plan on doing it myself in a few years time - but this account is something more than a travel guide or advice for those planning the pilgrimage. In fact it is more about a young woman who was to become a famous writer and poet - feminist and romantic, and the early events and ...more

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May 23, 2014 Angela rated it liked it

Itsue Takamure's story of her Shikoku Pilgrimage is must reading for anyone who is planning to do the pilgrimage today because it gives some useful historical context, and Shikoku is probably the least well known of Japan's main four islands. But as many such stories are, this one was mostly about herself, and often not in a way that explained very much. For example, nearly everyone she met seemed shocked that such a young woman had been permitted by her family to travel alone, and indeed, I ...more

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Nov 28, 2012 Nick Gogarty rated it liked it

Takamure's account of her trip around the 88-temple Pilgrimage in Shikoku, Japan is a fun, poetic glimpse into an interesting and rapidly changing period of Japanese history. Here, budding Post-Meiji values (particularly her pioneering feminism) are clearly in tension with the older rustic values of Shikoku's pilgrimage tradition.
This travelogue is a collection of short newspaper articles, and at only 200 pages covering nearly 6 months of walking, the narrative occasionally feels stilted and ...more

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